How do you test for sulfate levels?

For most people sulfates will never get too high, so it is not normally tested for. For that matter, it is difficult to even find a suitable test that is affordable.

If you use a great deal of dry acid constantly for long periods it is possible for sulfate to get too high. We recommend using muriatic acid in these cases, both due to sulfate issues and because it is far less expensive.
 
They sell it in may places, often referred to as something like; "pH Minus" or "pH Down".

With the slightest modicum of care and attention, using liquid acid is perfectly safe. However, the dangers of using it are wildly exaggerated much of the time.
 
I have never seen dry acid for sale anywhere. Why would you use it?
It's very easy to use dry acid and I'm a little nervous about muriatic acid because of the comments I have seen here about fumes, etc. I started using liquid chlorine last year after understanding the disadvantages of using dichlor, triclor and calcium hypochlorite. I just want to find out if the disadvantages of sodium bisulfate outway it's advantages. So far, it is about as clear as mud. :)
 
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Sulphates can attack concrete if the levels become too high. We used sodium bisulfate for years without any side effects (We have a vinyl pool) but we didnt know about using muriatic acid then.

31.45 muriatic acid is about half the cost of pH down from Walmart and 14.5 muriatic acid (the safer stuff) is about the same price as pH down. Might I suggest you try the 14.5 MA from Lowes to see what its like? Then it doesnt bother you switch to the 31.45 MA and try it.

I find using MA is easier and quicker than using sodium bisulfate you just need to watch what your doing with it.
 
Sulphates can attack concrete if the levels become too high. We used sodium bisulfate for years without any side effects (We have a vinyl pool) but we didnt know about using muriatic acid then.

31.45 muriatic acid is about half the cost of pH down from Walmart and 14.5 muriatic acid (the safer stuff) is about the same price as pH down. Might I suggest you try the 14.5 MA from Lowes to see what its like? Then it doesnt bother you switch to the 31.45 MA and try it.

I find using MA is easier and quicker than using sodium bisulfate you just need to watch what your doing with it.

Thank you, smackdab, for your reply. I think, maybe, your suggestion to try the 14.5 MA is a good one. In what ways do I need to "watch what your doing with it"?
 
Just be careful with it. This is really no different than using sodium bisulfate. Dont intentionally breathe it or spill it on things.

If for some reason you do spill it on yourself put the affected part into the pool whether it be your finger or your whole body. Again this is no different than using sodium bisulfate or other chemicals and doesnt mean to sound scary.

If you think about it once you mix sodium bisulfate in a bucket with water to go into the pool it is basically the same thing as MA. I hope you dont broadcast dry sodium bisulfate into the pool. The only difference would be transporting it since one is dry and the other is a liquid. There really is nothing to it. I use a measuring cup to add my MA. You could get come chemical resistant gloves to use.
 
When I said 31.45 MA is about half the cost, I meant it works out to be about half the cost to lower the same amount of pH, but a gallon of 31.45 and 14.5 MA and 5lbs of pH Down is about $7.50 each. In other words a gallon of 31.45 MA will last you about twice as long as 5lbs of pH Down. I hope that came out right.
 

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