Pvc leak help

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Eastern

0
Jul 10, 2014
66
Greenville, SC
Hi- I'm a pool newby and am in need of some advice as to how to repair a PVC pipe leak above my pool vac pump. I've looked around the forum and have found a few threads that involve a similar repair, but figured I should post my own. I've never done anything like this before, but would really like to learn! I will also be able to enlist the help of my 17 yo son who is the potato cannon king and knows a thing or two about working with PVC :).

Here are some pics of the leak location:

image.jpg1_zpszc4ssgqo.jpg


image.jpg2_zpsri4odjlw.jpg


Thanks!
 
I would cut the PVC about halfway up to the elbow. You will probably need a new section of PVC, a 1.5" union, a new thread-slip PVC adapter and some pipe dope labeled for use on plastic pipe fittings. Put the new parts in with the union at the cut point.

With the union, you will be able to tighten the threaded fitting as needed, so don't overdo it. Coat the threads with the pipe dope and snug it down. You can break the pump housing if you go crazy on it, so it's better to be loose and tighten it until it stops leaking than to over tighten.

You might be able to reuse the threaded fitting and pipe, but that would be a judgment call when you see if the original fitting has pipe dope or tape on it already and if it is tight.

BTW, that is your filter pump. The vac pump is the smaller pump without the basket on the inlet.
 
Threaded PVC is the devil incarnate in plastic. They are fussy to install and prone to develop leaks based on solar flares and tide phase.

Best bet is to cut the vertical pipe above it and install a new section of pipe with a new threaded fitting. Cut it only about 8 inches above the pipe and use a straight union with a new threaded lower union. If you use teflon tape, I've always had good luck with 3-4 wraps around the threading and don't over tighten them. It may also be a good idea to install a removable union above the pump. This way you can install with minimal tightening and if it's it needs more, you can loosen the union, twist and try again. Many people will say pipe dope is better than tape.

PVC Union:
0b30bc35-86ce-4804-aa20-a4925785ff77_400.jpg
 
Thanks so much for the guidance. I've read over your instructions with my son and we have a couple of questions (the type of which make me think we are not understanding something):

1. What type of cement should be used on the non-threaded union? Is pipe dope appropriate for this or do we need something different?
2. The threaded union with the pump is sealed with silicone. Is there an easy way to remove this?
 
Eastern said:
Thanks so much for the guidance. I've read over your instructions with my son and we have a couple of questions (the type of which make me think we are not understanding something):

1. What type of cement should be used on the non-threaded union? Is pipe dope appropriate for this or do we need something different?
Click to expand...
You want PVC cement, and probably primer. Just ask the guy at the hardware store when you buy the fittings. They'll have it.
2. The threaded union with the pump is sealed with silicone. Is there an easy way to remove this?
Click to expand...
Once the fitting is out of the pump, you can dig out any bits of silicone with a sharp pick or dental tool. Something like this. Any silicon blobs stuck to the pump housing can be scraped off with a razor blade or a utility knife blade.

The new threaded fitting should get 5 or 6 wraps of teflon tape and then a good coating of teflon pipe sealer.

My advice: saw the pipe. Dig out the old section from the pump. Install the new threaded adaptor in the pump. Glue one end of the union to the existing pipe. Assemble the union and carefully measure and cut the length of pipe you need. Then disassemble the union, glue the pipe into the pump adaptor, make sure the union ring is in position, gle the other end of the union on, and then assemble the union. It probably took me about as long to type that as it will take to do the actual gluing.
 
Richard320 said:
You want PVC cement, and probably primer. Just ask the guy at the hardware store when you buy the fittings. They'll have it. Once the fitting is out of the pump, you can dig out any bits of silicone with a sharp pick or dental tool. Something like this. Any silicon blobs stuck to the pump housing can be scraped off with a razor blade or a utility knife blade.

The new threaded fitting should get 5 or 6 wraps of teflon tape and then a good coating of teflon pipe sealer.

My advice: saw the pipe. Dig out the old section from the pump. Install the new threaded adaptor in the pump. Glue one end of the union to the existing pipe. Assemble the union and carefully measure and cut the length of pipe you need. Then disassemble the union, glue the pipe into the pump adaptor, make sure the union ring is in position, gle the other end of the union on, and then assemble the union. It probably took me about as long to type that as it will take to do the actual gluing.
Click to expand...

^^^ This

Exactly what i'd do.
For the PVC glue, get the can of Otay Rain or Shine blue stuff if they have it. If not, get the Otay heavy duty clear. Also, a small can of primer.
Like Richard said, teflon tape followed by some teflon pipe sealer on the male adaptor.
Dont put any tape or dope on the union. It's not needed nor recommended. The rubber o ring on the union does the trick. And dont over tighten the union.
 
Folks, I'm back hanging my head in shame.

Decided to check the salt cell for buildup last night (it was clear), but broke a union trying to remove it. No big deal, heading to the hardware store for parts anyway. Except that I left the pump timer on.

The pump turned on at 8am this morning and ran, empty, for about 30 minutes before my son saw the smoke.

And a $30 job turned into a $1300 job.

:(
 

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That is AWFUL. :oops:

Well at least now you get to figure out what kind of pump to get... If you can post the specs of the old one and ask for recommendations, I'm sure you'll get some good ones. 2-speed or variable speed would give you more flexibility and save $$$ on the electric bill.
 
Don't know if you have fixed your pump issue yet but just for S&G I recently replaced mine. Depending on your cash flow you could just replace the motor you have now, as long as nothing in the actual pump impeller was damaged. I got mine off of Amazon for $145. Could be a temp fix until you decide to get a VS or 2 speed.


I'm Mobile
 
Sorry to get back to this thread late- we had a lot of other projects going on this weekend

Son replaced broken Union, and we turned everything on. There was a buzz, but nothing else.

So do I understand, aw trickle, that it could be that just the motor is broken? That would be great, as a new pump is just not in the budget right now.
 

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