Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Help with pool store readings until test kit comes in!

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Harvey, LA
    Posts
    300

    Unhappy Help with pool store readings until test kit comes in!

    Some of you responded to my previous thread (here) back at the beginning of the month...here's my update:

    Ok, so now I finally got home to do some readings....here's what I got with the TF-100:

    Outdoor conditions - 75-85F, light rain...been raining pretty steadily for past 4-5 days
    FC:26
    TC:27
    pH: 7.2 (Of course with the FC so high, I don't know how (in)accurate this number really is)
    TA: 170
    CH: 1000
    CYA: 200+ (I used the method to cut the sample with tap water, and it was still slightly below the 100 mark in the tube)

    Like I mentioned in my original post, I pulled all sources of chlorine from the pool, and nothing has been added since my original post...I'm not sure which numbers I should try to attack first. Someone please help me tackle this in the right order!


    Based on my numbers from poolcalc...it basically says to completely drain and refill the pool....please let it not be right

    First, we need the details on your pool. I saw them in the other thread, but we need them on hand each time.
    It would help us if you would add the following information to your signature

    • The size of your pool in gallons
    • If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
    • If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
    • The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
    • If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
    • Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
    • What kind/model of water test kit you are using
    • Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner
    The first step is to get CH and CYA down by replacing water. You need to get CYA down below 100, ideally down to 60, before you will be able to get control over things. That will also reduce CH which isn't as critical, but is about to be a problem.

    You should also test the CH level of your fill water, to see if CH is going to be an ongoing problem or not.

    OK, now that the signature is out of the way, I'm sorry to say that a lot of new water is probably in your future.
    Moving to here...

    First thing I would suggest is reviewing the extended test instruction for the CYA test http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...l=1#post203524 . Depending on the brightness of the light you were testing in, your results may be off a little. I say this because you note it was raining outside, so you likely used indoor lighting.

    Regardless, you are probably still in the 200 range. That is in fact indicative of a need to replace a very high percentage of your water.
    You really want the CYA between 30 to 50, depending on your pool environment - how much sun you get and temperature - which effects daily FC usage. CYA in that 30-50 range protects the FC. CYA at the level you are at basically masks the disinfecting properties of the chlorine, requiring higher FC levels to do the same job. See the CYA/FC relationship chart here http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...art-slam-shock

    As you note, your Ph test is not reliable with a FC level that high.

    If you are certain you CYA is that high, your best bet is to come up with a water replacement plan, because if you let you FC get below a minimum of 7 to 9 range you will encounter an algae outbreak and it will likely be sooner than later.

    I see a drain in your future.

    One huge caution: Don't drain it all at once! If the water table is high - and looking at the amount of water and marshes near you on a map, I'd say it's a safe bet - you run the risk of turning your cement pool into a cement boat. Yes, pools can float, and even if it only shifts an inch, that could be enough to break underground plumbing.

    Yeah, I am aware of the concern of popping...I don't feel confident enough to deal with a drain/refill on my own, and at that point I'll be hiring someone to help who is insured for such things. I'm going to get another set of readings in the morning, and if all looks the same I'll get ready for that process. Ugh.
    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion View Post

    You should also test the CH level of your fill water, to see if CH is going to be an ongoing problem or not.
    I did that so I could fill in the poolcalc---tap water is 250

    Is your pool gunite? How deep? You can drain and refill a foot or two at a time.

    Please update your signature as described here, What we need to know to answer your questions

    As soon as I get home where I can modify my sig (don't know how to do with tapatalk) I'll do so. It's a plaster pool, I don't know depth since I've never been in it and inherited it, but it's 18k gallons I'm told. I'm gonna use a pole in a bit to try to gauge depth in what I believe to be the deep end (if it even gets deep, it's definitely not 10ft at that end)

    With high CH fill water, you will need to get used to managing high CH levels. That isn't an immediate priority, but longer term you will want to work on lowering your TA as the first step in that process.

    So, the consensus I think I'm reading is that due to the CYA levels, there really isn't much sense in doing any more additions of things, since I'm gonna have to refill the water anyway and I should just start there...is that correct?
    - - - Updated - - -

    Have you guys heard of this stuff?
    Bio-Active CYA reducer
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Nl100b0nRg

    I wasn't looking for an alternative for draining refilling, but I have this youtube poster in my subscribes, and when I went to go look at the testing videos from this site, that popped up by coincidence....could I go this route and forego drain/refill?
    There are a couple of active threads here right now testing and discussing the bio-active cya reducer. It is new and unproven.

    I don't see you avoiding several partial drain and refill cycles at this point.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here are links to go read up on

    http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...ve-cya-reducer

    http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...reducer-review

  2. Back To Top    #2

    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    30,083

    Re: Help with pool store readings until test kit comes in!

    In an attempt to put these threads together where they belong, I screwed up and merged posts from different users. I do not have time right now to see if I can correct it, so it will have to stand as it is.

    As always, it is better to continue your posts under one thread that is yours......saves a lot of confusion and headache.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Patrick_B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Midland TX
    Posts
    15,001

    Re: Help with pool store readings until test kit comes in!

    Oh Wow, there is a lot there..

    Gilbee, after my post here, please start with the first concern/question, and lets go from there. Let me ask first, did you get one of the suggested test kits?
    TFP Moderator
    Essential Links:
    ABC's Of Pool Chemistry, Test Kits, SLAM Your Pool
    28K Gal IG FreeForm, CLI Quartz, Pentair 36"SF & VS Pump, Dolphin M5, Rheem

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Harvey, LA
    Posts
    300

    Re: Help with pool store readings until test kit comes in!

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick_B View Post
    Oh Wow, there is a lot there..

    Gilbee, after my post here, please start with the first concern/question, and lets go from there. Let me ask first, did you get one of the suggested test kits?
    Yeah, it made a lot more sense to me before things started to get merged; I made reference to this original thread so that people who were reading this new one would have a point of reference.

    As you can see from here, I do indeed have a TF-100. The latest readings I gave were from that kit, taken myself. Based on that data, it looks like the most prudent thing to do is to look to drain the pool and swap the water.
    17.4k gallon IG pool with attached spa (spa itself is 730gal), Super Blue Diamondbrite plaster, Circupool SI-45+ SWG, BH/Hayward Cartridge Filter, 2hp 2speed Hayward Super II pump, , Jandy Valves, Waterway Skimmers, Rheem 400k Heater, Polaris 360 cleaner, built 2000+-, replastered June 2015, TF-100 kit---Here's my pool test reading history

  5. Back To Top    #5

    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    30,083

    Re: Help with pool store readings until test kit comes in!

    closed
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •