The volts are now 32, so the thermistor (current limiter) replacement worked. Try turning the switch to off for five minutes then turn the percentage to 50 % and then move the switch back to auto. Then when you hear a click, scroll through the diagnostics. The instant salt will start high and go down to what the unit thinks the salt level is. Compare the salt level on the box to an independent salt test.
Tired of Hauling Bleach - Let's fix the SWG
- Thread starter Valdeselad
- Start date
Thanks @JamesW, will do...I also ordered the Taylor salinity test you recommended today so it should be here around the time the new cell arrives.
Thanks again for all your help as we sneak up on fixing this thing.
Is there any particular reason I can't see the cell type as I scroll through the diagnostics on this unit? The last thing I see is the software version and then it scrolls back to the front and starts over.
The older units didn't display the cell type. There's a jumper on the circuit board to select the cell type.
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
The older version (r 1.40) does not show the cell type on the display because you cannot change the program for different cells.
(James beat me too it)
(James beat me too it)
OK, OP here and wanted to provide the next phase of update...
The new cell (T-15) arrived in the mail yesterday and I proceeded to install without difficulty. I also went to HD and purchased some salt to bring the levels up in the pool. This is where it starts to get interesting (and confusing). It seems I'm getting rather different salt concentration readings from the SWG as compared to the Taylor drop test. According to the Taylor test, I way overshot on the salt add and it tells me I'm sitting at 4800ppm...oops.
Now, if I look at the SWG and record the readings, here is what I see:
3000
82
25.4
6.92
52P
-3400
AL-1
r1.40
The only 2 lights on are the 'Power' light and the 'Generating' light, so to my amateur eye it looks to be working and generating chlorine. My concern though is the difference between what the SWG thinks the salt concentration is (3400) and what the Taylor drop test is telling me (4800).
I guess my question is -- is everything ok at this point or did I royally screw up and add too much salt? In my head, what seems to matter to me is what the Aquarite thinks the salt concentration is, because ultimately this is what drives its function or lackthereof.
The new cell (T-15) arrived in the mail yesterday and I proceeded to install without difficulty. I also went to HD and purchased some salt to bring the levels up in the pool. This is where it starts to get interesting (and confusing). It seems I'm getting rather different salt concentration readings from the SWG as compared to the Taylor drop test. According to the Taylor test, I way overshot on the salt add and it tells me I'm sitting at 4800ppm...oops.
Now, if I look at the SWG and record the readings, here is what I see:
3000
82
25.4
6.92
52P
-3400
AL-1
r1.40
The only 2 lights on are the 'Power' light and the 'Generating' light, so to my amateur eye it looks to be working and generating chlorine. My concern though is the difference between what the SWG thinks the salt concentration is (3400) and what the Taylor drop test is telling me (4800).
I guess my question is -- is everything ok at this point or did I royally screw up and add too much salt? In my head, what seems to matter to me is what the Aquarite thinks the salt concentration is, because ultimately this is what drives its function or lackthereof.
A few things to check.
1) Brush the pool thoroughly and allow the filter to run for 24 hours.
2) Double check that the cell says T-15 on it.
3) Review the Taylor test instructions for proper procedure.
4) After 24 hours, retest with the kit and check the box diagnostics.
Note: It is working and making chlorine. Salt testing can be difficult to get exactly right. You could retest with strips or find a store that has a meter to double check your results.
1) Brush the pool thoroughly and allow the filter to run for 24 hours.
2) Double check that the cell says T-15 on it.
3) Review the Taylor test instructions for proper procedure.
4) After 24 hours, retest with the kit and check the box diagnostics.
Note: It is working and making chlorine. Salt testing can be difficult to get exactly right. You could retest with strips or find a store that has a meter to double check your results.
Thank you @JamesW - is it possible the jumper you mentioned earlier is hooked up incorrectly on the board itself? The old cell that I removed that was left from the previous owner was a generic 'compupool' cell without a "t" number visible. The only marker is the serial # which was 200977. It also says "GRL/USCL" but that's about it.
I have confirmed the new cell is a t-15 and the filter is staying on at this point. Curiously, when I just checked the instant salinity # a minute ago it was reading 0, but everything else still seemed to be working normally.
I don't think that it's the jumper. If it were, the salt would read high, not too low. Your percentage is about 50%. The power has a 3 hour cycle (edit - the older units used a two hour cycle - end edit). Therefore, it runs for 1.5 hours and then it's off for 1.5 hours and then it switches polarity and the cycle begins again. During the off part of the cycle, the volts should be about 30 to 32 and the amps and instant salinity should be zero. You can change the percent by turning the dial up or down.
OP here again...So just when I think everything is working fine, the SWG appears to be giving problems. While the drop test shows the salt concentration staying largely the same (low 4000's), our SWG has been showing a level that is gradually falling, now reading around 2100 from an original 3000-3200. This has triggered the 'low salt' light to be flashing red and of course the 'inspect cell' light to also be flashing.
Is there potentially another problem with the board/cell that I'm unaware of? I'm stumped as to why there would be such a difference in readings. At 50%, our FC was only measuring 1.5 whereas when we initially put it on that setting we were getting FC readings closer to 5 or 6.
Thank you.
Is there potentially another problem with the board/cell that I'm unaware of? I'm stumped as to why there would be such a difference in readings. At 50%, our FC was only measuring 1.5 whereas when we initially put it on that setting we were getting FC readings closer to 5 or 6.
Thank you.
Try this
Move the switch to off
scroll through the diagnostics and record
wait five minutes
move the switch to auto
wait for a click
go to instant salt
watch the instant salt until it stabilizes (it should start high and go to the actual instant salt measurement)
Scroll through the diagnostics and record
Do the above procedure twice. That will give you four sets of readings. If you post those, we can help some more.
Move the switch to off
scroll through the diagnostics and record
wait five minutes
move the switch to auto
wait for a click
go to instant salt
watch the instant salt until it stabilizes (it should start high and go to the actual instant salt measurement)
Scroll through the diagnostics and record
Do the above procedure twice. That will give you four sets of readings. If you post those, we can help some more.
Have you tried to recalibrate it?
1. With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.
2. Wait until the numbers stop changing. If the system settles on or near a number that is close to what you believe to be the salt level in the pool, slide the power switch up to “Super Chlorinate”, then back down to “Auto”. This will lock that number in as the new average salt reading.
1. With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.
2. Wait until the numbers stop changing. If the system settles on or near a number that is close to what you believe to be the salt level in the pool, slide the power switch up to “Super Chlorinate”, then back down to “Auto”. This will lock that number in as the new average salt reading.
I'd concentrate on getting the rest of your specs in line. You may be seeing you cell clogging up due to high pH and out of balance chemicals.
Which is OK, and if everything is working properly will go away when your chemicals are in proper balance.
BTW, it is very easy to "oversalt" your pool. I'm always screwing that up!
@ChuckieChan - all other chemistry levels are good and water is crystal clear thanks to my learnings from this website.
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks @JamesW - I will try this.
I'll add my .02 regarding the Taylor salt test. Whether you get results that match the SWG or results that are different, the SWG will only work when it's satisfied with the salt level. It won't care what another salt test result is. If the SWG is happy, then I would be happy.
My only thought about the salt level dropping is that it may be temperature related. My level dropped when I opened the pool and the water temp was low. When the temperature went up, the salt level leveled out and was fine.
My only thought about the salt level dropping is that it may be temperature related. My level dropped when I opened the pool and the water temp was low. When the temperature went up, the salt level leveled out and was fine.