Autopilot Configuration Question

[jmcst25]

I just installed the autopilot DIG 220 / SC60 yesterday. I set it up for 50% level 2 to start and running the pump from 8 am to 8 pm (using the autopilot timer program 1- deleted program 2 time). It ran for about 4 hours and shut off at 8 and it raised the CL level to 2.5 and water temp was 90.

This morning I went out and looked at it before going to work -- the output level was down to 18% (it was not running - before 8 am). I increased the output - but it would only go up to 31% nothing higher. I forced the pump on manual override.

So my question -- why did the output level drop when the pump was not running Why would it only go to 31%. Am I missing something -- or any explanation is appreciated - do I need to do anything.

Also -- is there a way to 'reset' the autopilot calibration on the salt level. Meaning - if I accidently changed the salt calibration (to something wrong)-- is there a way to reset it to factory default so I know what it is reading correct - or if I need to calibrate it to my salt reading.

 

[tenax]

i have the softtouch version, but i'm sure it shares the same "temperature compensation" feature as yours. i just asked this question of poolsean a few weeks ago when i started my pool and yes, the output level will be limited if the pool water temperature is low enough. the compensation will automatically adjust the amount of chlorine needed depending on water temp. i think you were right in the first place to just leave it at 50% and cell power 2 and it will have the range to adjust from there depending on where the water temp goes. question though if i read correctly. you're saying the autopilot is running but the pump is not? i don't think that's a good thing.. i believe that the autopilot will automatically stop outputting chlorine if your pump if there is no flow but you don't mention and i would think, should be getting an alert of some kind (on my soft touch, a flashing red light). i have mine wired so once the pump starts or stops, the autopilot starts or stops with it. if you have no water circulation, what's the point of trying to run the autopilot.

in terms of the salt recalibration, the autopilots have the feature. don't know how to change on the digital though. if you search "autopilot calibration" here or at poolforum.com, you should find the answer. i saw it recently at one of the 2 places as it concerns the digital.

 

[Poolsean]

The output of the Digital will adjust by itself depending on your water temperature. As it gets colder, it will reduce and limit the maximum output. As the day warms up, it will increase...automatically. This may explain why it was lower in the cooler morning temps, unless you're going to tell me you're at 80 degrees all the time.

Salt Calibration should only be done AFTER you test the water with a reliable test kit. THEN go to the Maintenance Menu, Calibrate Salt, and match the calibration to your test results. No need to adjust to factory setting. Just test and adjust to your test result.

 

[jmcst25]

Hi Terry / Sean

I thought it might be the temp compensation -- but why was I unable to manually change it past 31% on the main screen -- or do you have to do that under one of the sub menu's? Also -- what impact does it have changing it on the main screen - on what was originally programmed (50% - l2)? Is that a temporary setting - does it go back to the main program feature.

On the salt calibration -- It was reading at 3000 ppm to start -- I think I may have accidently changed it. Is there a way to 'reset' my mistake - or just reprogram it based the results from taylor 1766 salt test kit?

( The water sat over night in the cell without running (so it would have dropped probably quite abit and would have explained the output %).

Also -- thanks for all the previous advise about the install. I did all the plumbing myself and added the 'bypass' pipe to remove the cell and hired an electrician (since I needed a new panel). It went very smooth.

 

[Poolsean]

Calibrate th salt based upon the test result of your Taylor test kit.

The Purifier % will graduatlly increase back to the original setting when the temps warm back up. In fact, if it gets warmer than that, the % may even increase above the 50% setting. It's suppose to do so.
I would recommend only changing the Purifier % if you see it not keeping up, or overchlorinating. Once it is adjusted, it's pretty much hands free...until you have a pool party, then you can put it in BOOST mode, or as many here do, manually add chlorine to avoid using hours of life from the cell.

 

[tenax]

the 50% setting that sean has recommended before is good advice, believe me. i mucked with power level 1 and playing with lower outputs than 50% and found i wasn't getting enough chlorine fast enough to my pool. no algae but only about .5 ppm free chlorine. i decided to go back to factory cell 2 power and set it at 50% and it's working great. 3-5ppm FC and the range available is working fine..with my water temp at 85 it was working fine at 50%. with recent cooler weather it's mid to high 70s and has dropped back to 30% automatically and that's fine by me. here's some pics by the way at this link of my pool setup for y'all

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread ... #post49179