JohnyGluebag's Pool Gong-Show

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JohnyGluebag

JohnyGluebag

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LifeTime Supporter
Apr 1, 2015
26
Katy, Texas
Good day. Just bought a house in Nov. 2014, Katy Texas, came with a pool, my first pool. The realtor recommended a pool guy...long story short I got the water tested today and have some concerns.

From Leslie's water analysis:
Screen Shot 2015-04-11 at 9.09.55 PM.jpg

A couple weeks ago the pool guy left a note saying the chlorine was low and that they added shock.

Today when I checked the SWG it was flashing red and wanting salt, the chlorination setting was set to 20%. The cleaner pump is not working, just does not turn on at all, has been like this for days I figure.

There is some yellow/green stuff on the edges of the steps spa and in the pool, it could be algae but there is allot of yellow pollen where I live so cannot say for sure.

Anyway, today I added about 60lbs of salt and turned the SWG to 40%, I am now thinking I should set it to 100% and let it run for awhile.

So, so far I am glad I found this site, seems to be allot of info here and really it is time I get after this myself. The pumps have two settings, there is this control system...so much to digest...

This weekend I am going to order the test kits recommended on this site. In the meantime I have to work with Leslie's to sort things out, would appreciate any info. or advice along the way, will report back with new test results soon.

Later eh.
 
Johny,

I too would like to welcome you to TFP! Your numbers don't look too far out of control at this point, the problem is that we really don't trust any of them. Leslie's and other pool stores are notorious for inaccurate test results that we really don't trust most of them once we see them. My suggestion to you is order your personal Test Kit and wait until you receive that to make any further adjustment to your water. All too often we seem members adjusting based on the Pool Stores results that turn out to be way off and need to be reversed. Rather than fighting that, I'd suggest holding off doing much until you can post your results. While waiting for your kit, the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry can help give you more background on water chemistry, and provides a great foundation to build on. Highly suggest you read up on this and get ready to enjoy your simplified pool. :D
 
Leebo took the words away from me.

Pool store results are at best, suspect. Great to hear you're ordering a proper kit. It will save you money in the long run. Maybe not even such a long run, probably before the end of Summer.

Just by way of example, check this thread. Scroll down to the historical readings and ask yourself how the CYA readings could change so fast.
 
The test kit is not here yet, but I want to try and work on other things if possible. Does the image below allow for proper ID of the crud forming. I am not afraid to put my back into it and scrub, just do not want to wreck the surfaces of stone/tile. Is there chemical I can apply to help remove? Can I use wire brush or just use scrub pad? The picture shows the hot-tub on the right; when the filter pump is on the water pours over to the pool on the left.

pool pics.jpg
 
JasonLion said:
Try using a mixture of one part muriatic acid added to 3 parts of water and maybe a little liquid dish soap and a scrubby. Or if working with muriatic acid bothers you, you can use vinegar instead.
Click to expand...
Thanks, if it ever stops thunder showering here I will get after it. Test kit not here yet so no data yet.

I noticed that the filter pressure reads 16 psi when running just the pool. Then I switched over to running the hot-tub only, and the pressure went up to 28 psi on the filter...not sure really what the base line pressure should be.

The motor on the pump is two speed and I have yet to figure out how all that is setup...but does the pressure difference from pool to hot-tub make any sense, or ring any bells?

Thanks.
 
My pool does the same. There's not as much of a pressure jump on mine, but it does go up on spa mode. In pool mode I have three returns. In blend, I have 5. In spa, I have two connected to the main pump. There's a lot of restriction there, that's why the pressure goes up. It's important to remember how your valves were set when establish your baseline for cleaning so you know when the pressure really has gone up enough to need backwashing.
 
Richard320 said:
My pool does the same. There's not as much of a pressure jump on mine, but it does go up on spa mode. In pool mode I have three returns. In blend, I have 5. In spa, I have two connected to the main pump. There's a lot of restriction there, that's why the pressure goes up. It's important to remember how your valves were set when establish your baseline for cleaning so you know when the pressure really has gone up enough to need backwashing.
Click to expand...
Right on. I did not check blend mode, will do that in the morning. There are 2 returns/suction for the pool, one each for the spa. Just realized that in spa mode the SWCG is not in the loop.

I ordered some Pleatco cartridge filters off Amazon today, just so I can start fresh and get a good base line. Cost was $140 for all four so I went for it.
 

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OK, got some test results and added a link to the ongoing tests to my signature. I do not have the 870 powder yet so have no chlorine info from the TF-100 kit, but used the K-1000. It looks as the the pH and chlorine are off the K-1000 scale, picture shown below.

Pool Calculator recommends 17oz acid and 225oz liquid stabilizer. I will leave my SWCG at current setting until I get the 870 powder and confirm chlorine level. My TA is on the high side, so should I lower the pH to low 7's and aerate to try and lower TA?

Thanks for any advice.

Screen Shot 2015-04-18 at 12.39.05 PM.jpg

Screen Shot 2015-04-18 at 12.09.58 PM.jpg
 
JohnyGluebag said:
OK, got some test results and added a link to the ongoing tests to my signature. I do not have the 870 powder yet so have no chlorine info from the TF-100 kit, but used the K-1000. It looks as the the pH and chlorine are off the K-1000 scale, picture shown below.

Pool Calculator recommends 17oz acid and 225oz liquid stabilizer. I will leave my SWCG at current setting until I get the 870 powder and confirm chlorine level. My TA is on the high side, so should I lower the pH to low 7's and aerate to try and lower TA?

Thanks for any advice.

View attachment 35452
View attachment 35451
Click to expand...
If that FC is above 10, your pH is reading falsely high. I'd go real easy on any pH adjustments until you're sure. Blinding tweety bird yellow is 10ish. Schoolbus yellow is more like 12 or 13.
 
ComputerGuyInNOLA said:
Johnygluebag,

Did you read the instructions for your SWCG? Many, if not all, require you to turn off the chlorine generator and run the pump for 24 hours after adding salt or it could damage your cell. I hope this did not happen to you.
Click to expand...

I did not turn the SWCG off, but indeed I was supposed to, :???: the chlorine is quite high right now, so it is still working. Next time!
 
Regarding the plaster, the whole pool looks like the picture below. It sort of looks fine to me but I really do not know. I like the darker bottom colour, but not sure if the dark spots are pool plaster or part of the whatever it is that goes on top. The clouds have rolled in and will not be able to get a better picture until they move. The real dark area in the upper right corner is shade from a hedge. The spots everywhere are not dirt...that is the way it is. The walls are not quite as spotty as the horizontal surfaces.

Screen Shot 2015-04-18 at 2.55.07 PM.jpg
 
The water has come around good, its clear and the FC is slowly coming down (did a bit of a drain to lower the CH); now fiddling with the SWCG to find a setting that only allows a slow drop in FC, so its all good.

TA is at 130 and I am working on that with the PH and waterfalls.

I really like the speed stir, totally spoiled now and would not want to be without it.

Today I came home to find water draining to the sewer. Yesterday I opened a cap on the deck to see what was in there, and found a floater/drain that handles the pool overflow and adds water when the pool gets low. I just barely touched the floater and it fell apart.

Anyway, water is slowly being added and I cannot figure out where to shut it off. The house is new to me, I cannot find a tap anywhere to shut this thing off so I can fix it.

There should be a valve somewhere to kill the water to this thing right? I reached in there and found a female threaded fitting, but its murky and cannot see.

Any ideas?

Screen Shot 2015-04-29 at 6.35.22 PM.jpg
 
Usually the shut off is straight out from there at the edge of the deck or at the nearest water hose bib. Sometimes the shutoff is in a water shut off box for the house or the water main box. Depends where they tie in to the house water supply. You can jam something in to hold the float up to shut it off too.
 
pooldv said:
Usually the shut off is straight out from there at the edge of the deck or at the nearest water hose bib. Sometimes the shutoff is in a water shut off box for the house or the water main box. Depends where they tie in to the house water supply. You can jam something in to hold the float up to shut it off too.
Click to expand...

THATS WHAT THAT FRICKIN WATER LINE ON THE SIDE OF THE HOUSE IS RUNNING TOO!!!

I never would have figure that out if this would leak would not have happened.

Thanks for the advice :D.
 

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