Getting my pool ready

Jump to latest Follow Reply
S

srmagavi

0
Mar 22, 2015
8
Plano TX
Opened my pool cover (thanks to the cover, there wasn't a lot of leaves) this weekend to discover the water green. It is a In ground pool, DE filter and is about 10,000 gallons. Got the pump working and added 5-6 scoops of chlorine and kept back washing every 2-3 hours and adding DE after each backwash. After a few hours, the pool color started changing and becoming lighter. I also kept brushing to get the algae mixed in water so it would get filtered away.

I've had the pool for 3+ years and the only thing I do is add is chlorine and acid, but I've had a tough time to keep water blue. Pool is my weekend home in Van Alstyne TX (near Plano, TX) so want a good way to keep pool clean and blue. I installed a chlorinator last year as I was told that it will constantly keep adding chlorine and I also use one of the floaters with chlorine tabs.

Now that I discovered this site, I realize how little I know about chemicals and pool maintenance. I just ordered the TF-100 kit as I just have a simple one that measures chlorine and acidity. This will come in April 20th.

There is so much to read that I'm afraid its brain overload. Can I make it simple and just post what the readings are and can someone point to where I can read on how much and what chemicals to add to get pool back in swim safe state and after that what I need to do to keep pool in good shape ?

Apart from the chlorinator, are there any other things I can use that will keep clean for 2 weeks if I can't make it for a weekend ? Shocking the pool each time its turns green has cost me a lot of money.

Thanks in advance for those who reply. I appreciate your time in reading a member's post and taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
 
Good job buying your own test kit...you'll be an expert on your pool in no time. Be sure and read the basics of pool care on this site before the kit comes in; that will give you a headstart to understanding what you're doing and what you're looking for when you start testing. Just post up your first results and many here will help you get to where you need to be. Welcome!
 
That chlorinator for what you call "chlorine" tabs have a dark side to them. They also add CYA as they melt. Too high a CYA level is the reason a whole bunch of folks pool turn green because the chlorine stays to low in regards to that level. CYA doesn't evaporate-just builds and builds unless you drain water and replace. In your situation I would highly recommend a SWG to better fit your needs. What 5 scoops of "what" did you add? I seriously doubt you reached SLAM level. Spend some time studying pool school and post up some GOOD test results with your handy dandy TF-100 when it comes in.
 
Yeah,
The problem you have is definitely having sufficient chlorine to keep the algae away. As Woodyp says, the Chlorine level is dependent up on the Stabilizer level. (Stabilizer is Cyanauric Acid). CYA buffers the effectiventss of chlorine. The tabs you are using add CYA to the water. And it doesnt evaporate or go away. It just continues to build and build and build. And after a while, it simply becomes almost impossible to add enough chlorine to the pool to overcome the buffering caused by the CYA.

This is the single most reason BY FAR that people continually have troubles with algae. Unfotrunately, almost all of the pool industry doesnt understand or acknowledge the FC/ CYA relationship. Its actuallly mind boggling!

since you arent at the residence a good bit of the time, A saltwater chlorine generator system like woodyp says, would be the most practical solution to maintaining sufficient chlorine. Its a bit of an investment up front, but it will pay dividends by virtue of keeping your Chlorine level where it should be while you are gone, and keeping the algae away.

I have a Saltwater Generator and I LOVE it. I couldnt imagine not having one.

Please do ask any questions you have. That's why we are here.
No one expects you to learn everything in pool school right away. It is a lot to take in at first. We have all been there and done that.
Believe it or not, it wont take long though and you will say "of course! That makes perfect sense!"
 
Thanks. Can you recommend which one to buy ? Also, can you show pictures of how this is connected to the existing system ? I have the standard pump connnected to a DE filter with the chlorinator next to the DE filer looping back to the pool.
 
Here are my test readings
FC = 24
CC = 1
Total Chorine = 25
Calcium Hardness = 250ppm
TA = 150
CYA < 20

Since I had added Chlorine, the color was darker yellow and Ph was higher pink.

Looks like CYA is very low. Any recommendations ?
 
Yes, need to add CYA. Put it in a sock and drop it in the skimmer. Give it a squeeze every few hours, or when you can, to help it dissolve faster. It will take about a week to fully register on the test.

According to this, Recommended Levels, target is 30-50 ppm, aim for 30 at first so that you don't overshoot the target. You can use PoolMath, to calculate how much to add.

Also, have you read this yet, ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry?

A saltwater chlorine generator needs to be installed after the filter. There are a lot of threads here discussing various brands in this forum: http://www.troublefreepool.com/forums/25-Salt-Water-Chlorine-Generators-(SWG)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply