First year pool doesn't open clear

Jump to latest Follow Reply
L

lances4803

Well-known member
Sep 6, 2009
56
TN
This is my fifth opening of this pool. In years past when I started noticing green algae, I simply shocked, added algaecide and then later a little water clarifier. Sometimes I have to add stabilizer. Vacuum up debris and within 24 hours, the water was crystal. It was always very easy.

This year, not going well. After 5 days, while slowly getting better, the water is still very cloudy. Shocked with dichlor. Still showing slight algae in the corners.
I cleaned the sand filter last night thinking there may be a lot of pollen built up. Didn't notice much debris at all floating out of the top.

Also, I have never had CYA over 60-70, this year the pool supply store showed 134!! My own TF-100 test shows right at 100. BUT, as the water is cloudy, I am suspect of what the actual results are (being as this is a visual test involving water clarity). We had a lot of rain this winter and draining excess water was common.

Specs:
23,500 vinyl

FC 3.5
CC 1
TA 100
pH 7.2
Borates 15

I now I need to stay on top of the shock.
How can I ensure my CYA is accurate?
Should I shock to the 100 level (FC of 39)?
Any other suggestions appreciated.
 
THe TF Test kit can only measure CYA to 100. It may be a but past that.
The reason you cant clear the algae is because of the High CYA. Not enough effective chlorine.

Even if you do get rid of it with high shock level, it will be difficult to manage the FC to keep the pool clean.

It would be better in the long run, to do a partial drain to get the CYA down to where it should be, and then maintain the pool with non stabilized chlorine (liquid) so it doesnt happen again.
 
I'm kinda given to wonder why you'd shock with dichlor when you have high CYA, since dichlor Al's has stabilizer just like pucks.
Do you follow common TFP practices of dosing with liquid chlorine using te CYA:Chlorine chart here?
 
We used to use liquid chlorine, but it is no longer available in the Huntsville area. Switched to pucks last year.
I still don't trust that CYA reading. How can it go up after the pool is closed?

Regardless, what is the best way to get the CYA down? I realize I am going to have to lose a whole bunch of water.
Is there a practical method to doing this?
 
lances4803 said:
We used to use liquid chlorine, but it is no longer available in the Huntsville area. Switched to pucks last year.
I still don't trust that CYA reading. How can it go up after the pool is closed?

Regardless, what is the best way to get the CYA down? I realize I am going to have to lose a whole bunch of water.
Is there a practical method to doing this?
Click to expand...

The pucks you were using last year added to the CYA, as did the dichlor you were "shocking" the pool with. The pool water is not cloudy enough to throw off the CYA test. I have sampled water from swamp black pools and the samples were always clear enough to get an accurate result on the CYA test.

As far as draining goes, do not drain a vinyl liner in ground pool completely. Leave at least a foot of water in the shallow end to prevent the liner from shifting or floating.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply