Hi, Im new here and have already done a TON

Apr 8, 2015
17
Mesa, AZ
So Im new here, but Im not new to pools. Its been about 20 years though and pools have changed a lot. We just bought a new houe that came with a pool. First order of business was to put a fence up then I took the water to get it tested at the pool store. The chlorine was super high and the CYA was 160 PPM. They suggested a drain, chlorine scrub on the walls and floor, then refill. Did that and things are currently fine. Im also replaced the cartridges in the filter because I wasn't sure when they were last cleaned or replaced and the pressure was sitting about 12, currently looking good on that front. After the refill I had to add a little bit of cya to bring it up from 20 to 30, and two bags of shock is what they had me use for the chlorine, and I am currently floating tabs.

All this while im waiting to get my TFT test kit so I can truly balance the water. Im kind of at the mercy of the pool store for another week or so. In that time my new Pentair VS 3050 Intelliflo pump will be installed replacing the 10 year old single speed (nothing wrong with it, just old and noisy, and a power hungry monster)

Any way I look forward to learning a lot more and balancing the pool my self and not spending a zillion dollars in chemicals.
 
You are not at anyone's mercy, stop going to the pool store. The two bags of shock and the tabs are still raising your CYA, I would say stop that. Save the floater & tabs for vacation. If it were me I would be adding a little bleach each day until you get your test kit and start investigating auto chlorination (Liquidator/Stenner Pump/Salt Water Chlorine Generator)

If you have read around here much you have probably seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

It would help us if you would add the following information to your signature
The size of your pool in gallons
If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
What kind/model of water test kit you are using
Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner

Welcome!!
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

You should get the TF-100 in well under a week, when did you order it? From tftestkit.net or poolsupplyworld.com?

In AZ you are going to want the CYA to be up closer to 50ppm eventually, so the pucks and powder likely did not hurt you too bad.

You should likely follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to be sure you are starting off with nothing growing in the water.

Post up a full set of test results when your kit arrives :goodjob:
 
You are not at anyone's mercy, stop going to the pool store. The two bags of shock and the tabs are still raising your CYA, I would say stop that. Save the floater & tabs for vacation. If it were me I would be adding a little bleach each day until you get your test kit and start investigating auto chlorination (Liquidator/Stenner Pump/Salt Water Chlorine Generator)

If you have read around here much you have probably seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

It would help us if you would add the following information to your signature
The size of your pool in gallons
If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
What kind/model of water test kit you are using
Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner

Welcome!!


I had test strips that told me the chems were off that's when I took it to the local store. The guy was an old timer, and hasn't tried to sell me any needless ****. Yet....LOL
I know the tabs and shock will raise the cya, the oldie pool guy said, were going to keep you at the 40-50 range. My test strips currently say my PH is low and CYA ideal FC Ideal and TC Ideal
Test kit has shipped from TFtestkits this morning.
I updated my sig after the post (hopefully it will show up on this post)
I have read most the pool school already

Well on my way
 
Ok so here are my numbers (mesa, az hard water)

FC = .5 GOAL 3
CC = .5 GOAL 7.5
CH = 375 GOAL 375 or lower (not much I can do here due to AZ HARD WATER)
TA = 190 GOAL 120
CYA = 20? it was filled to the top GOAL 40-50

So Im a little confused on what I should do first. If I follow the slam process it says to take care of my pH. However I know for a fact I need to add stablizer which will reduce my pH. Since clearly I need to add chlorine and satablizer should I just get a couple bags of shock and then retest? Or do I follow the pool math and add the required items according to it? Or do something entirely different
 
What is your pH?

You can use some dichlor or trichlor is you understand all of their effects. You should target a specific FC level though using PoolMath and not just dump a bunch of powder in. Keep track of how much CYA it is adding.

Much simpler to just add some CYA and stick with bleach.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Lower the pH and start the CYA dissolving. Verify pH after 30+ minutes. Start the SLAM assuming the CYA is at your target.

A week after CYA has dissolved, test and verify level.
 
Here is an excerpt from this page with detailed instructions on how to SLAM your pool.
SLAMing Your Pool


Prerequisites:You need to have a FAS-DPD chlorine testYou also need to know your current CYA level, and then look up the corresponding FC shock level. You can use the*The Chlorine/CYA Chart*at Pool School to find the correct FC shock level for your CYA level.It is best to use bleach or liquid chlorine when SLAMing. You will want to have enough on hand to raise the FC level to shock level at least a couple of times. It is especially important to avoid using dichlor when SLAMing, as it will raise CYA far too quickly.Make sure the pool is free of leaves and other debris (at least as much as possible).Check and adjust the PH to between 7.2 and 7.5. The PH test isn't reliable during SLAMing so make sure to take care of this before you start.Run the pump 24/7 until you are done SLAMing

SLAM:Test the FC level and add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (see*here*for correct shock level)
Test and adjust chlorine levels as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day. Chlorine additions should be frequent, especially at the beginning. Algae and other organic debris will consume chlorine very rapidly at first. As things progress, you will lose less chlorine each cycle and can add chlorine less frequently.Brush and/or vacuum the entire pool once a day Backwash or clean the filter as needed Vacuum up debris as needed You are done when:CC is 0.5 or lower;You pass an OCLT (ie*overnight FC loss test*shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);And the water is clear.When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
 
So your saying to lower my ph add some muratic acid. and raise my cya to 30 dont worry about the chlorine at the moment then once thats in range then proceed with slam?

Step 1: Get the pH down to the low 7s. You'll use muriatic acid for this. Use Pool Math to determine how much.

Step 2: Add enough CYA to bring it up to 30. This will drive pH down a little further, but likely not enough to warrant another pH adjustment (but you can check Pool Math to be sure). CYA won't show up on a test for about a week, so if you did the math correctly, don't bother testing for it....assume your CYA is now at 30.

Step 3: Start the SLAM by bringing your FC up to the appropriate level per the FC/CYA chart. Test and redose as often as you need to hold it there until all three criteria are met.
 
Step 1: Get the pH down to the low 7s. You'll use muriatic acid for this. Use Pool Math to determine how much.

Step 2: Add enough CYA to bring it up to 30. This will drive pH down a little further, but likely not enough to warrant another pH adjustment (but you can check Pool Math to be sure). CYA won't show up on a test for about a week, so if you did the math correctly, don't bother testing for it....assume your CYA is now at 30.

Step 3: Start the SLAM by bringing your FC up to the appropriate level per the FC/CYA chart. Test and redose as often as you need to hold it there until all three criteria are met.


Sounds like a plan! Thanks Be back soon!
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.