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Thread: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

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    New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    I have a lot of what looks like dead skin in my pool and the research I have done it seems to be white water mold or pink algae I would assume. I normally run about .5-1ppm FC and I recently let it get very low. I have shocked the pool to about 7ppm a couple days ago and I still see particles in the pool.

    My current levels
    FC 4
    Ph 7.6
    TA 85
    CH 300
    CYA. 45
    Phosphates 200
    Water temp 78

    Do I need to put algaecide in and if so what kind do you recommend? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I feel like my numbers are pretty spot on and I am not sure how to get completely rid of this.
    Nov 2014 - 25,000 IG Freeform 3.5'-7' w/ 18" Spa, 7 Ton Rock Waterfall, Bordeaux PebbleSheen, UV & Corona Discharge Ozone, HC-3315 Chlorinator, Jandy CV580 Cartridge Filter, Jandy LXI 400K Heater, Polaris 280 Cleaner, Jandy LED Pool2 & Spa1, AquaLink PDA
    Jandy JEP2.0VS (Filter), Jandy SHPM2.5 (Spa), Jandy FHPM1.5 (Waterfall), Polaris PB4-60 (Booster) - 2006C

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    Patrick_B's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Hello and Welcome,

    I'll be blunt, but don't mistake it for being harsh. We hardly, if ever suggest Alagaecides.

    Your normal level of 0.5 -1.0 PPM will never keep you out of the white/pink situation. These residuals are what allowed it to grow, and that really isn't adequate FC even in an indoor pool with zero Cya. With an outdoor pool such as yours, you have to have Cya, and the FC to be in proportion with it. Cya requires a little more FC, so a 0.5-1.0 in your outdoor pool is equal to Zero FC.

    We will suggest a SLAM. It's a controlled shocking process, where you elevate the FC to shock level, and keep it there until everything is killed and the water is clear.

    It requires a type of FC test that goes to high ranges that are required. The level is based on your Cya level. With your current Cya level of 45, and the normal residual you have, there is essentially zero FC in the pool. Even with 4 PPM, there will not be enough to overcome your situation, and from here, its a matter of time before you have an Algae outbreak. Also, we ignore phosphates almost without exception, so don't worry about those.

    May I ask what you are using for testing?
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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Welcome!

    I'm going to guess that if you are using the HC-3315 Chlorinator as your source of chlorine that the CYA number you have may be way off.

    If you don't already have one, you will need to pick up one of the recommended test kits. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on the list contain that test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    I have stopped using the chlorinator and have gone to bleach about a month ago. For a test kit I am using a Taylor 2006c Test Kit.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick_B View Post
    Hello and Welcome,

    I'll be blunt, but don't mistake it for being harsh. We hardly, if ever suggest Alagaecides.

    Your normal level of 0.5 -1.0 PPM will never keep you out of the white/pink situation. These residuals are what allowed it to grow, and that really isn't adequate FC even in an indoor pool with zero Cya. With an outdoor pool such as yours, you have to have Cya, and the FC to be in proportion with it. Cya requires a little more FC, so a 0.5-1.0 in your outdoor pool is equal to Zero FC.

    We will suggest a SLAM. It's a controlled shocking process, where you elevate the FC to shock level, and keep it there until everything is killed and the water is clear.

    It requires a type of FC test that goes to high ranges that are required. The level is based on your Cya level. With your current Cya level of 45, and the normal residual you have, there is essentially zero FC in the pool. Even with 4 PPM, there will not be enough to overcome your situation, and from here, its a matter of time before you have an Algae outbreak. Also, we ignore phosphates almost without exception, so don't worry about those.

    May I ask what you are using for testing?
    I have stopped using the chlorinator and have gone to bleach about a month ago for my Chlorine. For a test kit I am using a Taylor 2006c Test Kit. Can you educate me on this SLAM method and how it is done? Are all my numbers inline or do you see anything that is out of wack?
    Nov 2014 - 25,000 IG Freeform 3.5'-7' w/ 18" Spa, 7 Ton Rock Waterfall, Bordeaux PebbleSheen, UV & Corona Discharge Ozone, HC-3315 Chlorinator, Jandy CV580 Cartridge Filter, Jandy LXI 400K Heater, Polaris 280 Cleaner, Jandy LED Pool2 & Spa1, AquaLink PDA
    Jandy JEP2.0VS (Filter), Jandy SHPM2.5 (Spa), Jandy FHPM1.5 (Waterfall), Polaris PB4-60 (Booster) - 2006C

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Here is a link to the SLAM process.

    SLAMing Your Pool
    SLAMing Your Pool
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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    pooldv has given you the link to the specific instructions, but understand a SLAM is a continuous process, not a one night addition of chlorine that many call "shocking" the pool. Additionally, you need to use liquid chlorine; 8.25% bleach or 10/12.5% chlorinating liquid.

    Keeping the pool at shock levels of FC as long as it takes to kill everything in the water. Don't be in a hurry because it is going to take time. But, if you don't want to go through this again do it right the first time.

    It basically looks like this:
    Adjust pH
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Brush pool
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Brush Pool

    You keep up this cycle until:

    CC is 0.5 or lower;
    You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
    The water is clear.

    When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

    Don't stop early - don't guess, the FAS-DPD test kit is your friend.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Patrick_B's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Quote Originally Posted by Calleblanc77 View Post
    I have stopped using the chlorinator and have gone to bleach about a month ago. For a test kit I am using a Taylor 2006c Test Kit.
    Yes, but just your FC, and I'm sorry for not seeing the 2006 kit in your Sig last night. Keeping the FC so low and having growth as you mention will overload it easily, and drop you under target. If you don't have visible Algae now, it may be a pretty easy SLAM procedure for you. Read about it in the link pooldv showed you, but ask questions here if you have them before you start. We'll be here to help if you need it. If there is any White/Pink Mold adhered to anything, you need to scrub it and detach it from anywhere it resides. Once it's exposed to the elevated FC during SLAM it will be killed.

    Although it isn't bad, You need to push your pH down just a little. Use Pool math and target 7.3. With your current pH and TA, it wont take a lot of acid so dose carefully. If you run into a snag with that before you start, just ask here first. Once you begin SLAM, forget about pH until you are done.
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    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Quote Originally Posted by "Calleblank77'
    Do I need to put algaecide in and if so what kind do you recommend?
    As others have stated, algaecides are rarely recommended.

    If indeed you have “Pink Algae” (or more aptly-named Pink Slime), it is technically not an algae but rather a bacterium of the genus Methylobacterium. Pigments within its cells give it its distinctive pink color. The slime formed around the bacteria provides it with a high level of protection. In addition to clinging to the walls of a pool, it has an affinity for PVC plastics and will attach itself to both the inside and the outside of PVC materials that are a part of, or attached to, the pool. This includes your pool’s plumbing as well as your cleaner/vacuum.

    Since pink slime is a bacterium, it is considered “animal” as opposed to “plant” like true algae. Therefore, algaecides are completely ineffective on pink slime. You will need to go through the SLAM process to eradicate it. During this process, the pool walls should be brushed at least daily and the pump should be run 24/7 until the SLAM process is complete. Be sure to check filter pressure and clean/backwash as needed.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Quote Originally Posted by tim5055 View Post
    pooldv has given you the link to the specific instructions, but understand a SLAM is a continuous process, not a one night addition of chlorine that many call "shocking" the pool. Additionally, you need to use liquid chlorine; 8.25% bleach or 10/12.5% chlorinating liquid.

    Keeping the pool at shock levels of FC as long as it takes to kill everything in the water. Don't be in a hurry because it is going to take time. But, if you don't want to go through this again do it right the first time.

    It basically looks like this:
    Adjust pH
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Brush pool
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Test FC Level
    Add liquid chlorine to shock level - Test to make surer you got there.
    Brush Pool

    You keep up this cycle until:

    CC is 0.5 or lower;
    You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
    The water is clear.

    When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

    Don't stop early - don't guess, the FAS-DPD test kit is your friend.
    I can say i have alot less "skin looking flakes" in the pool today than i did 3 days ago before i brought the PH up from 1 to 7. I just did a Chlorine and PH check and CH was 5.6 and CC 0 and PH 7.6. The kids have only been in the pool a couple of times in the past 3 weeks and we just got the pool built in Nov 2014 so we really have not been in it. I am running my pump at low rpms 1750 for 12hrs a day in (2) 6hr increments.

    I do alot of research on here as i am a first time new pool owner and i want to maintain the pool on my own as i actually like doing it and i know i can with the help of this amazing forum and you guys. I brush about 3 - 4 times a week and check my levels almost daily as being a new pool owner i am pretty obsessed. I have a few questions that i am uncertain about.

    1. What do you consider FC Shock Level and what do you recommend for a normal running FC Level?
    2. In The Woodlands, TX my pool gets 100% sunlight till the late afternoon as the sun goes from the back of my house to the front of it so i get the late afternoon shade and we don't have any trees. What do you think is a good target CYA level is for my conditions?
    3. With summer time coming when do you recommend "shocking" the pool? Is it when the CC level gets to a certain number and if so what is that CC target number?
    Nov 2014 - 25,000 IG Freeform 3.5'-7' w/ 18" Spa, 7 Ton Rock Waterfall, Bordeaux PebbleSheen, UV & Corona Discharge Ozone, HC-3315 Chlorinator, Jandy CV580 Cartridge Filter, Jandy LXI 400K Heater, Polaris 280 Cleaner, Jandy LED Pool2 & Spa1, AquaLink PDA
    Jandy JEP2.0VS (Filter), Jandy SHPM2.5 (Spa), Jandy FHPM1.5 (Waterfall), Polaris PB4-60 (Booster) - 2006C

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    Quote Originally Posted by Calleblanc77 View Post
    1. What do you consider FC Shock Level and what do you recommend for a normal running FC Level?
    2. In The Woodlands, TX my pool gets 100% sunlight till the late afternoon as the sun goes from the back of my house to the front of it so i get the late afternoon shade and we don't have any trees. What do you think is a good target CYA level is for my conditions?
    3. With summer time coming when do you recommend "shocking" the pool? Is it when the CC level gets to a certain number and if so what is that CC target number?
    The link pooldv gave has the SLAM instructions including the link to the link to the FC/CYA chart. I don't want to seem harsh, we want to help you, but please read what is suggested.

    As to your second question, they FC/.CYA table gives recommended CYA levels. Lots of sun on the pool means err to the higher side of recomended for your pool.

    Following our system you NEVER shock your pool.

    Yo have to get the SLAM started, but how much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
    ABCs of Water Chemistry
    Recommended Pool Chemicals
    How to Chlorinate Your Pool
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: New pool own - White water mold / pink algae

    ^^What he said.

    If you understand the FC/CYA relationship, you will eliminate at least 80% of pool water management problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by tim5055
    Following our system you NEVER shock your pool.
    Repeating for emphasis. This is really true! I'm going on four years.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

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