Lime green water and low TA

Mar 31, 2015
5
Ontario, CA
I opened the pool cover last week (8 days today) and started testing and treating the pool. My levels seem to be normal now but there is still a lime green color to the pool. No algae seems to be present (no slime on walls). Here are my stats:

5 way test kit
Above ground pool - 5,000 gal (Intex)
Water results: Chlorine 6 ppm
PH 7.4
TA 50 ppm

I normally wouldn't test for TA until I read a post on another site that sounded like the problem I'm facing but I didn't see any more responses from the OP. Any idea on what I can do? I'm also reading that having an above ground vinyl pool changes the required TA ppm needed, any input on that as well is appreciated.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Is the water clear or cloudy? Is the water from a well? Have you ever used any kind of ion system, copper algaecide or any other alternative sanitizer?

I wouldn't worry about TA or pH at all for the present if at all.
 
If you have any copper or iron in the water, it can turn green with teh introduction of chlorine.
If the water seems to be very clear, no algae, but just green, then this may be whats causing it.

The only real way to know, is to have the water tested for metals. - Metal testing is about the only tests from a pool store that we would recommend, and we only recommend that they do this test because metal testing kits are expensive. The store testing may not be exactly accurate, but they usually at least give an inidcation if there are any metals in the water
 
Thanks for the fast response guys. My water is not from a well and I have used algaecide in the past (beginning of summer last year) but then I stopped once I came across the BBB method and that worked fine for the remainder of the summer. The water does seem to be clear-ish, I don't see the bottom of the pool though and the water does have that lime green color. Should I take a sample of the water before or after I raise the TA? Is this common for an above ground pool?
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

If you can not discern heads or tails on a coin on the bottom, then it is not clear.

Forget about the TA ... and pool store testing (except for metals if you are curious).

What is your CYA? That is a critical piece of info to know if you have been maintaining adequate FC levels.

You likely need to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process using one of the Recommended Test Kits.
 
You need to invest in your own good test kit. Pool store testing is notoriously inaccurate and not repeatable ... especially the CYA test. Save yourself the time, hassle, and confusion and order the TF-100 from poolsupplyworld.com ... you will have it in just a couple days.

The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS and not what someone wants to sell you.
 
I don't have the means right now to purchase a new kit but I did have the water tested for both the metals and CYA.

Metals: 0
CYA: 30 ppm (I was told this was on the lower side of what I normally need)

Ofcourse it came with a recommendation of a Clarifier since my other levels for chlorine and PH were good. Any thoughts now?
 
30 might be slightly on the low side for a clean pool, but you shouldn't go any higher until the pool is clean.

Clarifiers are usually a waste of money.

We're a broken record, but we really don't like to give advice unless it's based on reliable, accurate test results. Pool store results are usually a half step above worthless.

A good test kit is an investment that pays itself off several times over in saved money and saved time. Take a look at my signature for real numbers.
 
How are you going to follow the SLAM process, when you have to be testing the water and adding chlorine multiple times a day? AND the FC will need to be > 10ppm which is usually the limit of what most pool stores can even test for.

You will have to pay now or pay more later. I guarantee if you buy the test kit, you will save money in the long run.
 

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