Are hot tubs really supposed to be such a pain?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

DMS2014

Silver Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2014
805
Houston, Texas
We've had this thing since late October. We've had to drain it 3 times. We just drained it like 3 weeks ago and it's again all nasty inside - scum and it always has a lot of foam. Just can't figure it out. Chems are good. After we get out we put a powder in that is supposed to keep the water clear. The inside of where the filters are is gross. It's full of scum-like substance. We cannot figure it out.

The water is kept at 101 and the lid on when not in use. Husband checks the chems very regularly.

Any thoughts? I don't know what info to provide.
 
I really doubt that the "Chems are good". If they were you wouldn't have the problems you are describing.

If you haven't already, read the first two topics on this page about using chlorine and bromine to care for a tub. Then tell us which you prefer, chlorine or bromine, and what your current water test results are.
 
Exactly how are you testing the water? Exactly how are you sanitizing the water? What is the powder you put in after you get out of the tub? Does the tub have an ozone system and/ or a use a small mineral pack?
 
No, hot tubs are not a pain. My hot tub is way easier to maintain than my pool because it is smaller and covered and not plaster.

I drained my tub yesterday for the first time in a year. Just because it seemed like I should, since people say you should drain your hot tub every 3-6 months. I also hosed off the filter for the first time in a year. Water was completely clear before and after. The only difference this morning was the water was a little less salty because my wife hasn't dumped any epsom salts in it yet. And it smelled a little chloriney yesterday because the CYA hadn't dissolved yet. Chlorine smell was gone this morning.

Our hot tub is 340 gallons. I get in it every day for at least 30 minutes. Wife and I hang out in it for a couple of hours almost every weekend and often more. Sometimes like 6-8 hours.

All I put in my hot tub is bleach, cya and muriatic acid. And epsom salts. Since I drained it yesterday I've got a sock in it with 1.8 oz of CYA in it. Per poolmath above, to put my CYA at 40ppm. I add about 1/4 cup of bleach per bather hour after use. If we skip a day I don't usually do anything, if we skip two then I'll test chlorine and add a little bleach if needed. I test ph every week or two at least and add a little acid to lower ph. Our ph only ever goes up.

There is a little table by the tub with a jug of bleach a 1/4 cup measuring cup and a Taylor chlorine/ph test box.
 
we have been using bromine. We have been using the test kit from here. My husband checks it almost every day. I will take the water over to Leslie's and get a more detailed analysis. If I knew how to post pictures, I would post a picture. I tried to post a pic of my pool but it got stuck on uploading off my computer for some reason....
 
DMS2014 said:
we have been using bromine. We have been using the test kit from here. My husband checks it almost every day. I will take the water over to Leslie's and get a more detailed analysis. If I knew how to post pictures, I would post a picture. I tried to post a pic of my pool but it got stuck on uploading off my computer for some reason....
Click to expand...


I wouldn't bother testing @ Leslie's...the TF100 is as complete as is necessary.

Please post Full test results?

To post pics, I suggest using a service like photobucket. it's the easiest way to post to forums IMO...and you keep control over your photos.

If you want to keep using Bromine, there are others here that will be able to assist...Here's what looks to be a helpful thread http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/84-How-do-I-use-Bromine-in-my-spa-(or-pool)
 
DMS2014, when you reply try hitting the "Go Advanced " button and then look below the box you enter your reply into and there should be a box that says "Attachments". If you click on that box you should see where you can attach photos off your hard drive or search a flash card from your camera.

As for the spa. Is it a stand alone spa that does not connect to your pool ??
 
With the "stuff" you're describing in the filter area you might have a biofilm and if so the chlorine or bromine alone will not get rid of it.

Watch the video and see what comes out :crazy:
Others will chime in with a recommended product to use. I can't remember the name.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIAuJB2GVJg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I will say this with the full expectation that I will get roasted for this comment. We have had several tubs and always felt the exact way you feel about them. Too high, too low, but never just right and easy. We were always chlorine. When I got the chance to get a new tub for "free" I did a lot of research before paying to have a pad poured and doing the required electrical work.

I ended up using Nature 2 sticks and disconnecting the ozone generator. Our tub was several years old so I doubt it was functioning anyhow. Now all we do with it is change the water a few times a year and change the "stick". Upon every use but never less than weekly we use a capful of shock. Tub is kept at 100 and is use my Taylor kit to test ph on a weekly basis and adjust with baking soda or MA. And I Ahhsome clean every time I change the water.

You may have some residual outbreak that is clung to the pipes or pump??

Easiest a tub has ever been and I will never go back to any other method on a hot tub. Only chance is if they ever get the salt systems for tubs as good as for the pool.

Now if I can just keep the tub running (our heater just took a dump) we will be all ready for the Illinois summer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
bdex said:
Only chance is if they ever get the salt systems for tubs as good as for the pool.
Click to expand...

People like the ControlOMatic Technichlor saltwater chlorine generator so that is another option.

As for the shock you are using, are you referring to non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate, MPS)? That's what is normally used with the Nature2 system. The combination is an EPA-approved disinfectant (silver ions from Nature2 plus MPS at hot spa temperatures).
 
chem geek said:
People like the ControlOMatic Technichlor saltwater chlorine generator so that is another option.

As for the shock you are using, are you referring to non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate, MPS)? That's what is normally used with the Nature2 system. The combination is an EPA-approved disinfectant (silver ions from Nature2 plus MPS at hot spa temperatures).
Click to expand...

Yes sir. I should have clarified. MPS non chlorine shock.

The combination works very well for us.

About a 450 gallon Viking tub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wow, I guess I'm lucky. I got my first tub in the mid 80's and have always maintained a chlorine tub. I keep the pH in line, and usually have part of a 3" tri-chlor tab floating (I figure I have a bucket of them). I'm in the tub twice a day, sometimes more.

2-3 times a year the tub gets drained into the pool and I start fresh.

When I read the instructions here on keeping a chlorine tub I discoverd it matches how I maintain mine.
 
ChemGeek, I do the same thing with 1" trichlor tabs in this kind of dispenser: http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Floati...urF5ZI72Hx1kjWDuKiaR2-IFbP2CHbh1ouxoCK0rw_wcB

...And then oxidize with bleach to supplement. By keeping it almost "closed" I get a small residual for between soaks. One downside is that with constantly creeping CYA, I change the water more and remain conscious of the ratio, eg use a little more liquid chlorine when I'm about due for a water change ;)

I have generally found it easy to maintain my hot tub this way.

Maybe this info will help the OP arrive at something that works. I love my hot tub but likely love it more since I've arrived at an approach that works a little better for me. (I'm allergic to bromine and didn't have great luck with the mineral approach.)
 
Got it. At least with Trichlor, the CYA doesn't climb as quickly as with Dichlor and if you use it just for background dosing then it's really not that much, especially given the roughly 5 ppm CYA monthly loss typical in spas from oxidation by chlorine. One just needs to periodically add some baking soda since the TA will slowly drop from the Trichlor usage (which is like adding acid). For every 10 ppm FC added by Trichlor, after chlorine consumption/usage it lowers TA by 7.1 ppm (and carbonate alkalinity by 9.0 ppm after pH rises back to where it started from carbon dioxide outgassing).

The Nature2 with MPS system works, but usually needs a little help with periodic dosing with chlorine to keep the water crystal clear. MPS doesn't oxidize the same things that chlorine does. It doesn't oxidize ammonia very quickly, for example. Not sure it does much with urea. Of course, using bleach (after initial Dichlor) is the least expensive approach.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply