New Pool Owner - First Spring - Algae!

[wareagle4758]

Hi all,

I've been doing quite a bit of reading on all the great info here, but wanted to make sure my approach seemed logical, thanks for any feedback!

We had a pool installed last summer, saltwater, free form, with a spill in hot tub. I will edit my OP tonight (if able) with pictures and pool/equipment specifics. The pool was essentially neglected over the winter. So it's time for some clean up! Reading the following:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/3913-Turning-Your-Green-Swamp-Back-into-a-Sparkling-Oasis

I've come up with the following approach. Note I've estimated my pool @ 22K gallons (approx dimensions are 32'x16', 9.5 ft deep end, 3.5 ft shallow end).

1) clean leaves (minimal) and skimmers (minimal), I've actually kept up with keeping debris out of the pool, just not so much on the chemicals....

2) get CYA to ~70/ppm, applying via sock in the skimmer

I have 4 gallons of http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNY2AU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER in my shopping cart

3) brush all pool surfaces

4) get the Ph balanced (nothing ordered yet, any recommendations?)

5) shock the pool, based on a calculator I found here, 700oz of 6% bleach should get it to around 15ppm?

Questions:

Anything I'm missing?
What rate should I add CYA to make sure I don't overshoot
After shocking (and running the filter until the pool is blue), best method to clean out the dead algae? I don't think I have the ability to backwash (that my novice self has found anyway), but I'll post my equipment specifics and hopefully be proved wrong!
Am I correct that there is no need to add pool salt at this point? Since it creates FC slowly, just run without the chlorine generator?

Thanks for any help! I'll update tonight with pictures (if helpful) and progress as I go.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Slow down a bit. What test kit are you using? You need to run the pump for at least an hour and then do a full set of tests to know the correct path forward.

2) You do not want to raise the CYA that high before SLAMing the pool. 30-40ppm is plenty for the CYA.

2b) 4 gallons is not going to be nearly enough. Find the best deal locally and do not pay to ship a bunch of water.

5) You need to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process. If you were to raise your CYA to 70ppm, then a FC of 15ppm is not nearly high enough. Have you looked at the FC/CYA Chart?

You need to continue the SLAM until you pass the 3 criteria to stop ... that includes the water being crystal clear. You need to be running the pump 24/7 while doing this and cleaning the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

Leave the SWG off and do not worry about the salt level until the SLAM is done.

 

[wareagle4758]

Thanks for the quick response!

What test kit are you using?

Apologies, I should have included the test kit, based on what I saw recommended, I was planning on going with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BGF7TI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1X5YNB90CMIET

2) You do not want to raise the CYA that high before SLAMing the pool. 30-40ppm is plenty for the CYA.

The link says 70-80 (the SWG chart)...am I missing something?

2b) 4 gallons is not going to be nearly enough. Find the best deal locally and do not pay to ship a bunch of water.

Noted, thanks!

5) You need to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process. If you were to raise your CYA to 70ppm, then a FC of 15ppm is not nearly high enough. Have you looked at the FC/CYA Chart?

based on the above (using SWG chart) I should be targetting 28ppm, correct?

You need to continue the SLAM until you pass the 3 criteria to stop ... that includes the water being crystal clear. You need to be running the pump 24/7 while doing this and cleaning the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

noted

 

[jblizzle]

I recommend the TF-100 with the XL option if you are going to have to SLAM. You will run out of critical reagents with that K-2006. See the Recommended Test Kits. Since you are in GA, you would get the TF-100 from tftestkits.net pretty quickly.

Yes you want 70-80ppm for a SWG ... after the pool is clean and clear and you are using the SWG. With a CYA of 70ppm, you would need to maintain a FC of 28ppm, correct. But if you leave it at 30ppm, then you only need to maintain a FC of 12ppm for the SLAM.

 

[wareagle4758]

Great, I'll order now. Do I need any of the 5 additional testing addons (maybe the Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek?)

Ahhhhhh, understood about the CYA, thanks.

Not looking to do this exercise again, want to be proactive rather than reactive going forward!

 

[Richard320]

I'd suggest a different approach.
1) Get a test kit. You'll be burning through a lot of FAS-DPD powder clearing a green pool, so I will echo the suggestion above to get a TF100 and the XL option right now.
2) Read http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl paying special attention to the prerequisites.
3) Run the pump and filter to mix things and get a full set of test results.
4) Adjust pH and if you need to boost CYA a little, do that at the same time. Try to stay around 30 CYA
5) Raise FC to 12 and keep it up there as steadily as possible. There's a difference of opinion about whether to run the SWG during the SLAM process. I wouldn't depend on it to do everything, but if it's running while you're at work, it will keep the FC from dropping as low as it would without it. Still, bleach is your primary source of chlorine.
6) reread that article again and again during the cleanup.
7) When you have passed all three tests - and the OCLT test needs to have the SWG off - then you can let FC dip below 10 to adjust pH again if necessary and add whatever CYA you need to get up to 70. Then start fiddling with the pump run times and the SWG percentage to maintain the appropriate FC level for your CYA.

People have done it in as little as three days, but that individual was willing to get up every two hours during the night. Most people take a week or two. But once it's clear, that's it. Just maintain it and you may never have to go through it again, ever.

I set up a thread with links to some good photo stories of people doing exactly what you're intending. They're more interesting than the how-to articles.

 

[jblizzle]

The salt test can be helpful for troubleshooting ... I prefer the drop test.
The SpeedStir is well worth it ... never heard anyone regret getting one.

 

[wareagle4758]

thanks for the advice richard320

here are pics (pool)

equipment

and the wildcard, the iaqualink, apparently the service light is on (3rd light from the left, 2 green lights then an orange service light)? when i turned on the filter pump (1st time in a couple weeks), there was 0 pressure reading on the filter and the usual spa spill in did nothing, ie the water level didnt rise, I'm not sure what the deal is with this