liner tears above skimmer

jo66tr

0
Aug 10, 2008
11
Hello, I have read and learned alot from this site. Not sure if this is the right place to post this or not. I just got my first pool installed about a month ago. 24 foot round above ground 54 inches deep. First had troubles with filter and pump got that resolved and now have another problem. The liner has a rip or tear at the top corners of the skimmer. One on the left side is about an inch and the right side about 1/2 inch. I called the dealer I bought it from and he says he will do nothing. I called the installer and they do not want to do anything. Is there anything I can do or does the liner just need replaced? Can I patch it or something to try to get it to not tear any further? I will try to post pics. Thanks in advance.
 

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It looks like someone messed up when they were cutting out the hole for the skimmer. If that is the case I would think the installer was responsible for the tears. I would send them registered letter with pictures stating the problem and give them 30 days to respond. If they dont respond I would take them to small claims court to get a judgment. Now depending on your location and your winter temps I am not sure how the vinyl liner will react to the cold and possible freezing water. Someone who does will offer some advice soon.

Good Luck with it !
 
TizMe is certainly right about the warranty!

If you want to patch the liner, wait until closing (so the water level is down) and remove the skimmer faceplate and patch the liner (I'll give you more info on patching if you'd like)

The liner will not like being like this for the winter, but the areas are far enough above the waterline, so that you can address this in the spring if that's better for you :wink:
 
Yes if you have advice on patching please let me know. I am in northwest OH so it does freeze here. How could it have been done different in case I have to redo it myself? There is a bead track receiver or what ever you want to call it that is just above the skimmer I think that is what made it squeeze back in so tight like it did. Thanks for the responses
 
If thats the case then your skimmer might have been installed to high on your pool wall. Is there anyway you can take a picture of the pool where your skimmer is installed from a little further back so we can see how high it?

Im sure some of the pool installers on this forum will give there expert advice about it and its location.
 
The holes were already in the wall when I bought the pool kit. Here is the only other pic I have. It is raining now so I cannot take any right now. Do you think I can just repair it? Thanks
 

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What you're gonna want to do is lower the water to the bottom of the skimmer (which is why I had said to wait until closing to do it when the water is already lowered), and remove the skimmer faceplate :shock: Untuck the liner from the bead and apply the patch to the back of the liner - let the patches set and pull the bead back into the track and reinstall the skimmer faceplate ***BE SURE TO MATCH UP THE ORIGINAL HOLES!!!!***

IF you need any more info on doing this, please ask me BEFORE you do it! :-D

Also, did you ask PB about them?
 
Thank you for explaining the patching process. What would you use to patch it, anything in particular? I don't know what PB is but I asked both the dealer I bought from and the guy that installed and both said they would do nothing. Also if I patch it and reattach it the same way will it just tear again? Thanks again
 
I had pretty much the same problem. I got a mathcing "sample Liner" (for free) and patch glue from the pool store and patched in a long strip across the top. It was pretty easy....I took a few alcohol wipes and cleaned the area where the patch would cover, cut a strip of liner material and spread the glue across the entire surface, and then applied the strip. I kept everyone out of the pool for a day, and it has held for 3 years without any problem!
 

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brucel said:
I had pretty much the same problem. I got a mathcing "sample Liner" (for free) and patch glue from the pool store and patched in a long strip across the top. It was pretty easy....I took a few alcohol wipes and cleaned the area where the patch would cover, cut a strip of liner material and spread the glue across the entire surface, and then applied the strip. I kept everyone out of the pool for a day, and it has held for 3 years without any problem!

Good advice for patching :goodjob:

However, I still think that doing a couple of small patches behind the liner will be more solid and less visible :)

This is some advice on patching liners from the pool side of the liner
Patching a liner isn't all that complicated - you need a piece of new liner large enough to cover the hole and some liner patch adhesive (Boxer 100 is probably the best) a pair of decent scissors and I like to use a wallpaper seam roller to help apply the patch. For patches on the floor I don SCUBA gear, a new patch needs to be worked for a few minutes to insure that it doesn't just peel right off. To properly apply a patch, cut a n piece of new liner material so that it is large enough to cover the tear with ~3/4" overlap and be sure to round off any corners unrounded patches come off fairly easily. Apply a thick, even coat of the adhesive to the back of the patch and fold it in half so that it's glue to glue. Unfold the patch right at the leak and apply it - this is where I use the seam roller roll the patch from the center out using good pressure on the patch then spend a minute or two rolling around the edge of the patch.

Now, for a behind the liner patch like yours which abuts a faceplate, you don't have the room to make the patch large enough to insure a seal (because the faceplate is 'right there') so you go behind the liner and make the patch and let the faceplate HELP the patch stay in place. For the smaller tear, I'd use ~ a quarter ($.25) sized patch and maybe one ~ the same size but oblong (a little wider) for the other. Follow what I said in the quote for a proper seal and put the liner back into the track and reattach the faceplate as per my second post. Of course you could also do the 'strip of liner' like Bruce recommended, but behind the liner, this will strengthen the entire area where these rips have formed and may help to prevent more rips in the future 8)

If you need any more help - just ask :-D
 
How hard is it to get the liner out of the track with the water in the pool? Should it just come right out? Also is it hard to line the skimmer holes back up? I was thinking of going to an aquador and needed to replace the skimmer face anyway, I think. I will be closing here in a couple weeks probably, and would like to get it done before winter so I don' have to think about it. Thanks again
 
I can do it with the water in the pool, though maybe a little lower than yours is in the pic. However, something's just occurred to me :idea: - the faceplate screws may be the only thing holding the skimmer to the wall :shock: If this is the case, you'll want to take the water down below the skimmer before changing the faceplate. When you close the pool would be a great time to do both of these (**make sure that the aquadoor faceplate will match up with your skimmer - both size and screw configuration! also get a new gasket for behind the faceplate) Having the water down will also make it easier to get the holes to match up - because the water will be just below the bottom holes, it's pressure should keep the liner from shifting much :)

I know you want the door to keep from having to lower the water every fall, but this is a 1 time deal and gets you the aquadoor and the liner patched all at once - loosing 6 - 8" of water for this sounds reasonable to me :goodjob: Please do install the 'door' even though the water will be low when you cover the pool, the rain and snow that collect on the cover will force water into the skimmer - no need to loose more water :wink:

Looks like you have a "J- hook" liner - out and back in should be easy with the water level below the skimmer. Getting the holes to match up shouldn't present problems, the liner can just be pushed or pulled into position.

If you have any more questions about this, please ask (but not next Sat. - my annual golf tournament and if I do get home fairly early - I probably won't even be able to see the computer screen, let alone type {it's the S.A.D -Swingers And Drinkers- invitational} :lol: )
 
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