Questions on what to test?

[southalabamapool]

I just got my new Taylor K2006 test kit today! I wanted to know what tests do I need to preform and when doing the FC and CC should I use the 10ml test to conserve my chemicals? I have been just using strip tests and the pool store numbers to get started and I want to know if I need to SLAM my pool. I started getting it ready for swimming on March 5 and it is actually pretty clear right now but I am afraid that all of the algae has not actually been killed. After last summer of only doing what the store pool tests said I spent way to much money on chemicals than I think I really should have! I am so glad I found this site and I really want to have a trouble free pool this summer so I want to start off right so that it will be easier to maintain. Thanks for any help with suggestions!

These are the tests I think I should do after reading

FC
CC
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

 

[pooldv]

There are five chemical levels that every pool owner needs to keep track of:
FC - Free Chlorine - A sanitizer which keeps your pool water safe and free of germs. Chlorine must be constantly replenished. (level depends on CYA)
PH - Acidity/Alkalinity - Needs to be kept in balance to prevent irritation and protect the pool equipment. (7.5 to 7.8)
TA - Total Alkalinity - Appropriate levels help keep the PH in balance. High levels can cause PH to rise. (60 to 120, sometimes higher)
CH - Calcium Hardness - Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. (220 to 350, vinyl lower)
CYA - Cyanuric Acid - Protects chlorine from sunlight and determines the required FC level. (outdoors 30 to 50, SWG 70 to 80, indoors 0 to 20)


Here are four other chemical levels that come up frequently enough that you should at least know what they are:
CC - Combined Chlorine - CC over 0.5 indicates a problem.
Salt - Required with a SWG (Salt Water chlorine Generator), otherwise an optional enhancement.
Borate - An optional enhancement.
Phosphate - Doesn't matter, despite pool store claims otherwise.


It is all right here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

Some more folks will come along and talk to you more about needing to SLAM the pool to get rid of algae.
found here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/119-how-to

 

[pooldv]

There is some more info on algae located here.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/118-solving-problems

 

[jblizzle]

Given your description, I would follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process ... after running a full set of tests and posting the results to see if anything needs adjusted prior to the SLAM.

 

[southalabamapool]

These are my test results from tonight
FC 9
CC 0
PH 8+ it took drops to bring to 7.7
TA 125
CH 200
CYA 85

What would you recommend I do because I think I saw some green in the corners even though my FC is at 9. I know I need to brush the whole pool down and shouldn't I get the ph right before slamming the pool? Thanks for any advice! And the water still looks clear. So I am a little confused on why there would be algae growing?

 

[Divin Dave]

First thing,
get your PH down to 7.2 -7.4 ish . Use Muriatic Acid to lower the PH.
POOL MATH, will tell you how much of each chemical to use.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Enter your Pool Volume in the top left field where it says VOLUME
in the NOW column, enter your FC and PH (dont worry about other stuff now. You;ll get to that later)
the click calculate button and Pool Math will tell you how much Chlorine and Muriatic Acid to add.

Do the PH first, then let the pool circulate for at least 30 minutes then test again. Adjust as necessary with MA.
When PH is good, then add chlorine per Pool Math to reach your SLAM level. Let the pool circulate 30 minutes before testing.

COntinue to use pool math to figure out how much chlorine to add after each time you Test.


jblizzle provided SLAM instructions. Follow it to the T. Its not a one time thing. You need to MAINTAIN SLAM level until you have defeated the algae. DO Not Cheat! If you do, then you will have to perform SLAM all over again in a week.

here is the FC/CYA chart. Your SLAM level for FC is 35.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

The more you persevere and MAINTAIN SLam FC, the quicker it will be done.

These are my test results from tonight
FC 9
CC 0
PH 8+ it took drops to bring to 7.7
TA 125
CH 200
CYA 85

What would you recommend I do because I think I saw some green in the corners even though my FC is at 9. I know I need to brush the whole pool down and shouldn't I get the ph right before slamming the pool? Thanks for any advice! And the water still looks clear. So I am a little confused on why there would be algae growing?

 

[southalabamapool]

I added the acid this morning before work, but I have to go out of town this weekend and will not be able tot start the SLAM until Sunday afternoon because I hate to start today and waste what I start because of being gone all day Friday, Saturday, and part of Sunday. Should I at least add a gallon of bleach today and tomorrow so that while I am gone I don't have a major break out of algae while I am gone? I do have my SWG going but I should turn it off when I start the SLAM process right?

 

[Casey]

Yes, turn the SWG off when SLAM'ing.