Heater/control panel question--detailed (sorry!)please help

[Steve C.]

Hey TFP Folks,

Setup: 22K gallon Gunite pool and spa with Anthony DE filter, age about 15 years;
PentAir WhisperFlo pump, age 2 years;
RayPak RP2100 gas heater with electronic ignition, original to pool;
Anthony Pools Antho-Touch 2040 indoor control panel, allows switch from pool function to spa function and pool heater function to spa heater function, also original.

Problem: pool heater comes on but won't heat pool

Symptom: pool heater cycles on one time only, either when entire system is first started up or if heater switched off at indoor panel or outside switch box, and then back on again. Will stay lit for a while and cycles off, but never cycles back on again unless heater or entire system switched off and back on. Then it will light once, run, and cycle off, never to re-light on its own...

Clues that I'm not sure how to use: 1. If spa switched on and function set to "Spa Heater" (on indoor panel), heats spa just like normal and holds any spa temp. just fine.

2. The indoor panel has dual notifier lights for both the spa heater and the pool heater function. The first light tells you power is on to that function, the second light comes on to tell you it's in a "heating" cycle -- that is, second light comes on only when burner is lit. Of course the spa heater lights are working, just like the spa heater function. But -- both "pool heater" lights also work just like they're supposed to! If you move the little sliding temperature selector on the indoor panel, the second light comes on when you select a setting above the ambient water temp. and goes off again if you slide it to a setting below the temp.

It knows when to turn on the blasted notifier lights, but won't turn on the pool heater burner!

Techs from three different pool maintenace cos. have come out. They all three turned the thing on, noticed that the burner lights, and told us it's working fine. No help there, not yet anyway...

Thank you in advance for reading this post and wading through all the details. Any help with troubleshooting or repairing is appreciated a lot!

 

[stever]

The only thing I can think of is flow. The spa could easily have a better flow and is working, but the pool may have some sort of flow restriction (smaller/longer pipes, etc) that puts the heater under its required glalons per minute needed.

It may be firing at the onset then testing for flor -- determining it's too low and turning off. While the filter are in both circuits, it may be the weak link -- does it need cleaning?

Just an idea -- hope it helps.

Steve

 

[Poolsean]

A couple of other ideas....

May be your pool thermostat too. While in Pool mode and it fires up, and then shuts down, Without turning the system OFF, turn the thermostat to the lowest setting, then back up. You should be able to hear it "click" when the thermostat deactivates and reactivates.


If you have an electronic spark ignition, you should be able to hear it constantly clicking to get the burner lit.

 

[Steve C.]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I hadn't thought about other things that influence heater operation, like water flow, definitely need to check. To answer your question, the filter has been cleaned at least twice -- disassembled, screens cleaned, new DE, pressure back in 20-lb range -- since heater problem arose.

Tried thermostat setting test. No clicking noises in the heater. Means the thermostat isn't functioning, correct? Which I guess also means the indoor control panel has separate thermostats for the pool heater and the spa heater, true?

Do you know of any options to troubleshoot or R&R the panel/thermostat besides calling service personnel? So far can't find any online info or circuit diagrams about the indoor panel. Always happier when it's something I can fix myself, or at least understand what the service tech is saying...

And again, thank you for your time and expertise.

 

[Poolsean]

The t-stat is a simple continuity test. When the t-stat clicks, it goes into either a normally opened position or normally closed position. If it's not doing either, your t-stat is bad. It is something you can change yourself once you get a new one.
The flow is determined by a flow switch, actually a pressure switch. There should be a tube connected to the pressure switch with water that activates or deactivates the pressure switch. Remove this tube with the pump on to ensure there is flow going through the tube. The pressure switch is also a continutity switch and can be tested like the t-stat. This time, turn the system off and remove the opposite end of the tube and blow into it. Place your meter on the contact points to see if you get a normally opened and normally closed status. The blowing should be enough to get the pressure switch to react.

 

[Steve C.]

Sean,

Thank you for the clear, to-the-point, step by step directions. I can run with that...being a guy that turns wrenches on other equipment but having little experience with how pool stuff is put together.

It's Friday evening, September 5, just now checking personal emails (and forum post!). Lucky timing...great to have this info in hand and the weekend ahead to use it.

With best regards, and with many thanks and much appreciation,

Steve C.