New to BBB method

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M

mkohr

0
Mar 18, 2015
83
Lebanon, PA
OK group i have a 25,000 plaster pool that is about four years old. Until now i have been using the chemical recommended by the installer....
Nature Mineral system with Chlorine feeder (uses 3" tabs)... probably 4-5 a week
DE filter using pure fiber instead of D though
Pool shock ( Di-chlor i think) recommended once a week
Jacks magic 8 oz. once a week to prevent stains
Pro-60 algaecide 8oz. once a week for preventative maintenance.
Muratic acaid as need for PH.(as needed)
And PH stabilizer for alkalinity control (as needed)

So will all that being said i was doing some research on the BB method thought it would easier and save $$$.
So went to costco and found 3 (1) gallon jugs of clorox 8.25% for $9.50
Using a calculator i found on this site it appears as if i would use all three gallons to shock the pool....
However Costco also has Clorox pre measured packets of powder shock $55 for 24 bags each bag does up to 20,000 gallons.
Even if i use two bags to shock it is still almost 1/2 of the bleach.... What am i missing?

Didn't do a comparison on the tablets vrs bleach for daily chlorination as needed. But i do know i typically buy 50lb jug of the 3" tabs for $130 and that last me a season here in PA.(about 4-5 months)


Help from the experts is appreciated in advance.
 
Welcome to TFP!

The key to the method that we now refer to as Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) is understanding what you are adding to your water. All forms of chlorine add something besides chlorine to the water. The shock either adds calcium or CYA. That can be good or bad, depending on what is already in your water. The chlorine level required to shock a pool varies depending on the CYA level. A bag of shock for 20,000 gallons isn't an accurate way to dose a pool. Read the article on SLAM Process and check out the [FC/CYA]CYA[/FC/CYA] as well.

ETA: If you have been using dichlor and tablets, your CYA level is probably extremely high. You definitely don't want to use the Clorox Shock Plus or any other form of stabilized chlorine.
 
The powder shock is probably the same as the dichlor you are already using. It adds cya causing you to keep trying to add more and more chlorine to keep algae away until you finally reach a point that it takes over. Then the pool store will have you add more shock to clear it up for a week, then tell you you have "chlorine lock", and you have to dump most of your water and start the process all over again. The nature mineral system is most likely using cooper as an algaecide, and the jack's is keeping it from staining your plaster. If you just look at the price of bleach vs tabs, you may not see a huge savings. It may even cost more depending on where you are and how much the pool is used. Where you see the benefit of the trouble free pool method is not having to buy all the extra stuff like the algaecide, dichlor, jack's, and ph stabilizer on a continuous basis. Not to mention that you won't have to keep dumping water and starting the cycle all over again. Read through pool school a couple times and familiarize yourself with the parameters you need to watch and how they are affected by what you put in your pool. Start by getting one of the recommended test kits so you can have accurate numbers to go by, and your pool will be trouble free.


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I look at your list of stuff you're adding all the time, and I feel relieved that I'm only adding a cup or two of bleach a day, and a cup of acid once a week. At first I thought the TFP method was a hassle (just drop in some pucks!) but it's easier than, say, emptying the dishwasher every day.

- you will probably have to drain at least half your pool. Don't do anything until you get a recommended test kit and post some results, but be prepared for this. Do you have a long hose for backwashing to a waste drain? Think about how you might need to drain the pool considering the restrictions of your municipality or neighborhood.

- you didn't mention having an active algae bloom, so that will make refill and balancing much easier.

- test frequently over the summer until you really learn how your pool consumes various things. For me, my CYA, CA, and TA don't change a lot, only need a seasonal adjustment. Lotta bleach in the phoenix summer, not very much in the winter, and my pH drifts up each week.
 
The Color Q 6 is not one of the recommended test kits that we suggest to have but you can use it for now to give us some numbers. Please post a full set of test results and we can offer more advice on the condition of the water.

You are definitely spending more money on chems than you need to.

A key piece of our method, TFPC, is understanding what chemicals are added to the water when you add them. Liquid chlorine adds chlorine and a small amount of salt. Powder forms and pucks add CYA or calcium along with the chlorine. CYA and calcium are the two chemicals that cause the most problems with pool water.
 
I never really had an issue in the past. Just doing some research because I thought that there had to be a better way. I drained about 1/4 o-1/3 if the pool last year because of the cya levels. If I recall when closing all levels were within acceptable range. I will post levels when I open in a couple months.


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mkohr said:
I also just ordered the TF-100 test kit


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Click to expand...

NOW you are talking!!

It will save you SO much money, time, effort! You will love it!

Let us know when you get it and we can help you through the tests. There are even videos to show you how to do them.

The CYA is the hardest but you can do it-full sun, with your back to the sun, tube held at waist level as you look for the black dot on the bottom.

Kim
 
What should be my 1st steps when opening the pool? In the paste I would shock with powder, put some tabs in the feeder , throw in some also idea and let the filter run until clear ...(usually 2-3 days) using TFTP methods what should I do?


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Once you have the pump running get a good set of readings with your test kit. Bring your FC up to your target for the measured CYA. Adjust pH.

Is the cover off? How does the water look, clear, cloudy, green, a swamp?

If anything but clear, you will be conducting a SLAM. If it's clear do an OCLT to see if anything is growing. If you fail the test, SLAM. If you pass you may be swimming soon.

Remember, you have metals in the water from your previous use of a mineral system, you will have to continue using sequesterants to avoid staining.
 
Softeners can take out a small amount of Iron depending on its state, but unfortunately Metal is about the worse problem you can have in terms of your pool's appearance.

About the only thing you can do with it, is find another source of non-metal fill water, or use sequestrants.

Lowering the pH and keeping at the low end of suggested levels can sometimes help, but Metals are just difficult at best.
 
As your metals came from your previous use of a mineral system, not your fill water you could do a water exchange to get rid of the metals. Or, just give it time - splash out, backwashes and any other time water is removed metal will go with it.

But, remember - this does not include evaporation. Just because you had to top off the pool does not mean you are lowering the metal content.

I think it is the pessimist in me, but I think some pool professionals do this on purpose. Sell you a great and wonderful " mineral" system knowing full well you not only have to buy the mineral cartridges, now you will have to buy squesterant.
 

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