Jandy Aquapure error code 170

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C

chuck_w

0
Mar 17, 2015
1
dallas/tx
Hello all, first time poster here. I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 that I'm having trouble with. I was getting error code 170 so I called my local pool service company out to do a system check. They diagnosed my problem as a front board issue but could not get another board as it has been discontinued by Jandy. So they recommended a complete new system. I did some internet searching and found a new board, so I installed it myself and guess what? Same error code 170. Where do I go next? Replace the back board?
Thanks for your help,
Chuck
 
Welcome to TFP!

From the Jandy diagnostic code list:
Code 170 - Front board service condition indicated and is usually caused by low AC voltage from back board - check transformer and back board voltages.
 
instead of replacing things haphazardly , you should have tested it as likely the front board was fine. Transformers however aren't cheap for these things, I got lucky and found a used one. I would suggest if you are comfortable to troubleshoot it and find out where the problem actually is before spending more money. If you PM your email address I will send you the troubleshooting manuals and you can check it out and determine what the problem is.
 
This is almost a 100% the salt sensor. If you have a PDA system sometimes this will also mess up your remote talking to your system. Do nothing more than change the sensor. Jandy has put out a new one. Make sure you get the latest.
 
I have been working on Jandy systems for about 10 years. I have changed over a 100 code 170 and only a few ended up being anything more than the trisensor. The new sensor only has 2 contacts instead of 3. Im talking about the part that goes in the cell. The silver ones. Make sure you get one of the new ones or you may end up having the same problem again soon. I know some Jandy reps that know a lot more than me but I have been doing Jandy Warranty repairs for over 10 years in the New Orleans area. Not telling you this to brag. Just wanted to let you know my experience. Code 170- Code 172- and no flow showing on remote are all sensor problems. When you look at the contacts you may see some rust. If you do this almost always gives Code 170.
 
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ConradM said:
I have been working on Jandy systems for about 10 years. I have changed over a 100 code 170 and only a few ended up being anything more than the trisensor. The new sensor only has 2 contacts instead of 3. Im talking about the part that goes in the cell. The silver ones. Make sure you get one of the new ones or you may end up having the same problem again soon. I know some Jandy reps that know a lot more than me but I have been doing Jandy Warranty repairs for over 10 years in the New Orleans area. Not telling you this to brag. Just wanted to let you know my experience. Code 170- Code 172- and no flow showing on remote are all sensor problems. When you look at the contacts you may see some rust. If you do this almost always gives Code 170.
Click to expand...

Where do I find the new sensor that only has 2 contacts? And will it fit the same as my previous sensor?

Conrad can you give me some insight here or email me? I'm so confused and frustrated at this point

Thanks in advance
 
Took the advice of ConradM and back in business. Mine was shooting error code 170 and this fixed the problem on the cheap. Install was super easy, follow the enclosed instructions with the replacement, super easy. This is an important thread. There are tons of in depth troubleshooting recommendations, but this made thread made the most sense. Below is link to 2 sensor unit, hope it lasts longer than 3 years that I got out of the previous sensor.

Amazon.com : Zodiac R0452500 16-Feet Port Sensor with O-Ring Replacement Kit for Select Zodiac Jandy PureLink AquaPure Water Purification System : Swimming Pool Chlorine Alternatives : Patio, Lawn Garden
 
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This thread just saved me lots of grief. This forum is fantastic for people like me that can do most anything within reason like read directions on cleaning Jandy Aqua Pure PLC1400. I have been getting "no flow" for several months through the winter so I decided to clean the Chlorine generator. Removed, cleaned and reinstalled did not solve the problem. The PLC1400 is six years old. After reading some of the PLC1400 reviews a six year life was good. I started getting the 170 error code shortly after reinstalling the cleaned PLC1400. This morning I got the manuals out and started reading. I probably caused the demise of the PLC1400. I read two interesting instructions. One reads "DO NOT LET YOUR SALT READING GO BELOW 2000 OTHERWISE YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR CELL". In six years this is first winter I let if go below 2000. Installing dealer told me does no generate below 50 degrees and never said a thing about never allowing pool water to go below 2000 salt reading or 2.0 however is displayed. Another WARNING "ALWAYS SET SALT PRODUCTION TO 0 (ZERO) BEFORE ADDING SALT AND LEAVE THERE FOR 24 HOURS". I have never done that. Had I read the manuals before now I wouldn't be faced with buying a new PLC1400 with cables. Those people that got 2 life or life less than my six years likely damaged theirs like I probably did mine by failing to keep the salt reading 2000+ but not more than 4000. I had hosed off my equipment pad and thought had done something to Jandy ePump VSP Pro by spraying water on it even though is outside. I finally figured out the error code was telling me "front board service condition or unit not wired correctly". Things are gradually sinking in now that I have read the Installation and Operation Manual and learned about my two process errors that likely caused the damage and I am now just realizing that error code 170 definition is in the AquaPure Manual and not the RS4 control system manual. I have a new PLC1400 with cables be here Monday from an Amazon pool vendor. I am made at my pool supplier that I pay $40 a bag for salt and $6,000 for a heat pump that came of their showroom floor that was obsolete when they sold it to me and didn't tell me. Plus the Compressor went out just two months before five year warranty expiration and only had less than 150 hours one it. Even though AquCal shipped me new compressor and other associated parts it still cost me a $1,000+ for labor and gas to replace it. So my pool is on a budget now. You just saved me a service call from and electrician that I was going to call to test the power and find the problem. I bought a amp meter for testing but I am not experienced enough to trust my testing. REGARDLESS THIS FORUM AND YOU CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS THREAD SAVED ME LOTS OF MONEY AND GRIEF. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
 
Even though the picture of the new Zodiac PLC1400 3-port PureLink Cell Kit picture did not show the R0452500 Sensor Indicator Module as part of the new 3-Port PureLink Cell Kit it arrived with it as part of the new kit. The vendor just needs to update their picture. This is link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QMS6JI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the one that I ordered and it has the External Sensor Module as part of the kit. I just finished updating my profile to include my pool environment description so I came back here to edit see if it would add my profile signature.
 
Want to say that I found this thread about a week ago, my system was putting out a code 170. I followed the thread and bought the new sensor that Conrad mentioned and my pool is now producing Chlorine again.

Thanks for having this site available.
 
Want to say that I found this thread about a week ago, my system was putting out a code 170. I followed the thread and bought the new sensor that Conrad mentioned and my pool is now producing Chlorine again.

Thanks for having this site available.
Click to expand...
Fantastic! And welcome to the forum. Perhaps consider starting a thread in the "Introduce Yourself" sub-forum and tell a little about yourself and your pool. Nice to have you join us.
 
JasonLion said:
Welcome to TFP!

From the Jandy diagnostic code list:
Code 170 - Front board service condition indicated and is usually caused by low AC voltage from back board - check transformer and back board voltages.
Click to expand...

Last fall just prior to closing our pool I encountered the Code 170 error again with the new twist being the PDA could no longer connect. This spring when we opened the pool I disconnected the flow sensor from the front board and it started showing the Code 172 errors (flow sensor).

I ordered the PLC1400C kit as my last cell only lasted five years and the replacement was approaching that 5 year mark.

When it arrived I installed the new flow sensor with the new Sensor Interface Module. I made sure to remove the old Flow Board as indicated in the instructions. However I cannot get any of the lights on the Sensor Interface Module to come on. I've followed the trouble shooting guide and performed the tests and confirmed that there was no issue with the Aquapure front board. I'm getting the Codes 172, 183 and 184 which all indicate it is related to the flow sensor itself.

Is it possible I've received a defective flow sensor or is there something I've missed or should be trying?

Thx.
 
ConradM said:
I have been working on Jandy systems for about 10 years. I have changed over a 100 code 170 and only a few ended up being anything more than the trisensor. The new sensor only has 2 contacts instead of 3. Im talking about the part that goes in the cell. The silver ones. Make sure you get one of the new ones or you may end up having the same problem again soon. I know some Jandy reps that know a lot more than me but I have been doing Jandy Warranty repairs for over 10 years in the New Orleans area. Not telling you this to brag. Just wanted to let you know my experience. Code 170- Code 172- and no flow showing on remote are all sensor problems. When you look at the contacts you may see some rust. If you do this almost always gives Code 170.
Click to expand...


I have a question ConradM,

I'm troubleshooting my PLC1400 and i'm hoping it's the sensor like you are stating with the Error Code 170. I unplugged the flow sensor and everything goes back to normal almost. Front panel shows 0% chlorine(i just filled up the pool with new water recently) but lights up Cell Reversing indicator and Code JO with "Wait". As far as Voltage Testing goes.

Below are readings with Flow Sensor Unplugged:

Transformer Voltage = 79.5vAC Points 1 & 8

Back Board Test Point
1 & 8 = 79.5vAC
2 & 7 = 69.0vAC
3 & 6 = 21.6vAC
4 & 5 = No Reading 0 (This is the one that should read 120MvDC with Cell On)

DC Voltage out from board to salt cell connector = No reading for vDC (supposed to be 22-28vDC)


Front Board Troubleshoot
Current Test on Front Board (with flow sensor unplugged "Cell Reversing Light came on" but not Cell On Light)

Test Points K to H = No reading (This is also MvDC)

Test Points A & C - 21vAC



Hold Salinity + R-Temp Button and Salinity Button on Front Board = 2.8GPL (Okay per Manual)

Hold Salinity + R-Temp Button and Pool Temperature Button on Front Board = 74 DegreeF

Press and Hold H- Temp + Press Salinity Button + Chlorine Production button = unsure will test tomorrow.




Above was tested with the flow sensor unplugged.


when the flow sensor is plugged in everything is the same for all the vAC(same as above) & vDC(still showing no reading or 0vDC from Backboard to Cell and also 0vDC from point K and H on front board)


my question i guess would be that if the sensor was bad. would that cause it not to send out DC voltage the the plug that connects the cell? if not could it be the back board and if so does anyone have a part number?

thank you for all your help as i'm a newbie
 
Were you having issues with connectivity as well? Not sure you have a PDA or what interface you use. I've got similar symptoms, but some are different. The sensor that you purchased, was there a two prong, three prong mismatch?

Thanks,
 

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