SWG not making chlorine

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N

newmaac

0
Jul 2, 2012
48
Cupertino,CA
I have a Jandy AquaPure 1400.
Newish cell. Only about one year since replacement.
Newish back board. 8 Months +-

I am always struggling with build-up of calcium in the cell.

The salt content is currently too high. 3800-4000. The reading fluctuates. This is the first time that I have had the salt level too high.
After a lot of rain (pool draining), I had the local pool store test the water. It tested only 1100, so I added 200lbs, per their recommendation.

I am not currently getting any codes, but it seems like it is always in "cell reversing" mode.
The "cell on" light will light, for just a few seconds, then go off.

I have not read these symptoms in anyone else's forum posts.

Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Thanks in advance.

Mike
 
Sounds exactly like my situation a few years ago when the sensor went bad on my Jandy AquaPure SWG. I contacted Jandy and they sent me a new sensor under warranty. I changed out the sensor and the system started working correctly. As a side observation, the new sensor contained an additional circuit board that plugged into the main control board. It looks like they made some major change to their sensors to deal with some problems.

Even if you have to pay for the sensor for some reason, it's still probably cheaper than a new cell.
 
Fixing high salt level

I screwed-up!! I had my water tested at the store.
Was told that the salt level only read 1100, and to add 198 lbs.
Now I am getting readings of 4000-4200!

My understanding is that the only way to reduce salt is to drain and re-fill a portion of the pool.

Assuming that this is correct, I need to confirm the amount to drain.
Since I am basically 20% higher than I should be, am I right in thinking that I need to drain 20% of the water and replace it?

For some reason, It feels like I am missing something in this equation. I hate to waste thousands of gallons of water! I need to try to get this right.

Other than pumping into the sewer clean-out, is there any responsible way to dump a bunch of salt water?

Thanks for your help.
Mike
 
Re: Fixing high salt level

You should only need to replace 5% to 10% of the water. You are only just a little over the high salt limit. All you need to do is get it down to roughly 3800-3900 and the SWG will run. Then you can let it come down more slowly on it's own from there.
 
Please post a full set of test results:

FC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

We will find out why the cell is building up calcium with your results.

I have several questions for you.

What is the water temperature?

Was the SWG reporting a low salt level before you added the salt? This unit should work with the salt level at 4000 max.

How have you been cleaning the calcium off the cell? Have you cleaned the sensor?

What is the output SWG%?
 
OK. Here we go....
FC=0
PH=8.0
TA=150
CH=250
CYA=45
Water temp=65+_
Yes, the SWG was reporting a low content.
I have been cleaning the cell with a 25% acid soak. (for 20 mins, or so)
I gave the sensor a feeble cleaning on Sunday. Basically just scraped it with my thumbnail. After doing some "midnight reading" last night, I now plan to clean it properly tonight.
I currently have the output set at 55%.

As I mentioned earlier, the "cell on" light fluctuates. The "cell reversing" light is constant. I am hoping that cleaning the sensor and slightly reducing the salt level, (to 3800-3900) will get me making chlorine again.
I definately am interested in any input that you might offer in regards to fixing my calcium build-up issues.
I am going to order a good test kit and do everything possible to stay out of Leslie's. I need to be more self sufficient.
 

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The scaling is caused by the high pH and high TA. You need to keep the pH 7.8 or less all the time and lower the TA to 70. Having the TA will help keep the pH stable for longer periods of time.

Each time that you clean the cell with acid it will reduces its life span.
 
What voltage are you getting at the cell itself? Mine never really threw codes but it was a dead giveaway it wasn't working when the cell was reading 5 volts. I just replaced my board and transformer and the thing finally works correctly until the plug decides to melt itself again. and i do have the full troublehsooting guides for both types of model cell if you need them, just PM me your email address.
 
So, I drained about 8-10 percent of my water and re-filled.
Now the salt level is reading ~3800. It fluctuates between 3800 and 3900 on the AquaPure panel.
Actually, I expected a lower reading, having drained that much water.
It is making chlorine again!!
Cl= 2.2ish
The Ph is still a little high. 8.0ish
The TA looks like 210.


I don't trust the readings though. I am currently using a "cheapo" All-Clear 4 way test kit.
Reading the Pool School info, I plan to order a new test kit. (TF100)

I don't see any recommendation for a salt test kit. Is there something that I should be using, in addition to just reading the Aquapure panel?

I am inclined to wait a few more days before adding any acid to treat the Ph/ TA.

I appreciate your input.

Mike
 
Glad you got the SWG running again!

It is better to lower PH now, rather than waiting. High TA combined with high PH can cause problems. The PH test is the mostly likely to be correct of the tests in a "cheapo" test kit, good enough odds to do some basic PH adjusting any way. I would lower PH to around 7.5 for now, and wait for the new test kit before making any more significant adjustments.
 
I have the Ph down to 7.2-7.5. I have a heck of a time with the Ph colors in this kit. :eek:)
The TA is still high, 200.
I have a T100 test kit and the Taylor drop based salt kit on order.

I turned the the AquaPure down to 35%, as the chlorine was getting a little high.(previously set at 55%)

It is definitely going in the right direction.

I appreciate your help.
I plan to spend more time in the Pool School, so that I can better understand the chemicals.

Mike
 
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