Replacing old Compool system

gary300

LifeTime Supporter
Dec 15, 2014
602
Riverside California
Hello All. Pretty new to this forum and looks like a lot of knowledgeable people here.

I have a vintage Compool (circa 1990) LX-10/Timemaster system that is starting to fail on a few functions. My pool is IG 38,000 Gal with attached elevated spa with spillover into the pool. Just got a new Pentair Quad 60 filter and a new Raypak heater is going in this week. I am looking at the Pentair EasyTouch Upgrade kit for this system. Also I would order the wired 8 function remote and the 4 button spa side remote. I have CVA-24 actuators (2) and an air blower for the spa. Is this the best choice for me? I am a retired electronics guy (not a pool professional by any means) and would install this kit myself. Should not be too hard, the power connections are the same and the circuit board connections have some differences between screw connections and Molex connectors. Do need to replace the transformer, the new PCB needs different voltages.

Any suggestions for a different approach or other accessories would be appreciated before I order all this stuff.

Thanks for any helP!
 
Did you complete this upgrade on your own Gary? I am taking on the same project myself this summer. I just bought the upgrade kit and have a few questions. Can you share your insights?


  1. My LX-100 controller had a 3-wire connection for the pool heater. This is due to the heater having a pool/spa switch for dual thermostats. But the upgraded board only has a 2-wire connection for furnaces. Did you face this situation? How did you handle it?
  2. Did you purchase the spa-side remote? I have an existing remote that is wired to the Lx-100 controller. I assume I can use this in the same place on the new board?
  3. I also have an existing indoor contoller, CP-100. Can I wire this up to the comport on the new board?
  4. Did you have a specific gotchas that you would like to share?
  5. And, did you have a number for tech support to contact in regards to the project?

Thanks in advance for any time or insight that you can provide.
 
Did you complete this upgrade on your own Gary? I am taking on the same project myself this summer. I just bought the upgrade kit and have a few questions. Can you share your insights?


  1. My LX-100 controller had a 3-wire connection for the pool heater. This is due to the heater having a pool/spa switch for dual thermostats. But the upgraded board only has a 2-wire connection for furnaces. Did you face this situation? How did you handle it?
  2. Did you purchase the spa-side remote? I have an existing remote that is wired to the Lx-100 controller. I assume I can use this in the same place on the new board?
  3. I also have an existing indoor contoller, CP-100. Can I wire this up to the comport on the new board?
  4. Did you have a specific gotchas that you would like to share?
  5. And, did you have a number for tech support to contact in regards to the project?

Thanks in advance for any time or insight that you can provide.

Jeff, I will try to answer you questions. Welcome to the TFP forum, you can find the answer to most any questions about pools here.

1. I set my heater controls to max on both the spa and pool and set the heater to remote control mode. The ET (Easy Touch) then uses it's own water temperature sensor to cycle the heater on and off as required. You heater manual should show how to set up a two wire connector for remote control.

2. The old Compool spa side remote I have would not work with ET. I purchased a Pentair IS4 spa side remote and replaced the old one. Easy install since the cable diameter is small it is a cinch to pull it though the conduit.

3. My existing indoor remote was not compatible with the ET. I purchased a Screen Logic interface and wireless adapter which replaces other remotes and lets you control everything using your PC or Apple/Android phones or tablets.

4. None that would be worth mentioning. Took longer to install the new air sensor and wireless transceiver than it did to replace the Compool board.

5. Did not have to contact tech support, but I am a retired Electronics engineer and this stuff is right up my alley. The manual does have the contact numbers is need be.

I think you will be really happy with your ET upgrade. Seriously, take a hard look at the Screen Logic addition, I am really glad I went that way. Please PM me if you need any further assistance, I am glad to help.

Gary
 
I got the kit today and took a look at installing. The first thing I noticed is that the old transformer connects to the terminal block w/ (4) black cables (yellow, white, blue, and black). But the instructions mention disconnecting (3) wires and the terminal block provided w/ the kit has (3) terminals. I assume I need to replace the (4) terminal block w/ the new (3) blue terminal block provided. And, the current block is wired for 230V (and the pump is a 230V Whisperflo 2HP pump) so the new block should be connected for 230V. Did you encounter this as well? Pics of my pump voltage on the spec sticker and a pic of the terminal blocks current in the power supply panel.
IMG_3686.jpg IMG_3687.jpg
 
Yes you need to use the new block they provided you and connect the wires accordingly. If you notice on your old block, there is a loop wire on the middle two connectors. The new wiring sticker shows you where to connect the two pump wires for the power.
 
Thx for chiming in Paul. I saw the wiring diagram on the supply side and saw the 230V config matched the loop between terminals 2 and 3. Just got thrown off by the old xformer not matching the install instructions and wanted to make sure I hadn't received the wrong part or order the wrong kit. Unfortunately, I am leaving town for the weekend and the install must wait until Monday. Updates next week...or more questions.
 
Paul and Gary thanks for the help. Upgrade kit install completed! I swapped the terminal block, the power transformer, and the board. I went ahead and reconnected the existing spa-side remote. I think it is an is4, but don't see any specific markings on it. Also, the old board showed a +15V supply on the old spa side connector and the new ET uses 5V so I wasn't sure if it would work. But low and behold, even the spa-side remote works. However, I don't think the LED is working. Probably not exactly compatible and the new board can't drive the LED. Everything else works great! Very excited to get my pool back on a schedule w/ the filter.

Now, I have a USB-rs485 adapter in the mail to connect to the COM port as I try to interface w/ the controller. My big goal is to build my own Raspberry Pi controller and write a web-service/iOS app to control the spa remotely. I also need to replace the CP-100 indoor remote that is mounted on the wall. Hoping this could be the resting place for the RPi to connect up.
 

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