LOL!!! You are better than I! I was in the pool before it was full and didn't even try to lie about it!! :-D
S Fla Canal Front Remodel
- Thread starter ourback
- Start date
And the saga continues. Water drained down to the bottom of the skimmer overnight. I've turned off the skimmer and kept the pump running, and so far it looks like the level has not dropped any further. This is the same behavior that caused this entire project to happen, though in that case it would have leaked down in an hour or two. Waiting on the pool people now.
Does it make sense that water would leak out of a suction line while the pump is running? If it was a return line, why would it stop as soon as the water dropped below the skimmer mouth? Perhaps one of the connections to the new skimmer basket is bad?
Does it make sense that water would leak out of a suction line while the pump is running? If it was a return line, why would it stop as soon as the water dropped below the skimmer mouth? Perhaps one of the connections to the new skimmer basket is bad?
So, hopefully much ado about nothing. They forgot to plug the second hole in the new skimmer.
I also found out that my Pentair come Hayward LED light is in fact my old light with a "Color Splash 3G" bulb in it. Apparently when they got around to replacing the light (after the decking was already done, etc.) the old cord didn't want to budge in the conduit. I also should be happy about this since I saved money and it's just as good. (I love how the Hayward was "just as good" as the Pentair after they talked me into spending more money on the Pentair, and now just replacing the bulb, lol.)
I thought the light was broken because it wasn't doing what either the Pentair nor Hayward was supposed to do as you flipped it on and off. Anyone know if you can control these Color Splash bulbs with any of the standard automation systems?
I also found out that my Pentair come Hayward LED light is in fact my old light with a "Color Splash 3G" bulb in it. Apparently when they got around to replacing the light (after the decking was already done, etc.) the old cord didn't want to budge in the conduit. I also should be happy about this since I saved money and it's just as good. (I love how the Hayward was "just as good" as the Pentair after they talked me into spending more money on the Pentair, and now just replacing the bulb, lol.)
I thought the light was broken because it wasn't doing what either the Pentair nor Hayward was supposed to do as you flipped it on and off. Anyone know if you can control these Color Splash bulbs with any of the standard automation systems?
Here is hoping the plugging fixes it!
I will have to let someone else help with the light question.
Kim
I will have to let someone else help with the light question.
Kim
So a month in and I'm waiting to switch to my swcg until I've finished smoothing out the coping - I've done about the first (60 grit) pass on like 2/3 of the pool in only 12 or so hours using 30mm bullnose diamond pads.
Different pieces of coping, but before and after the 60 grit:
I'm not sure how much finer a grit I need to polish it up too before it ~matches the tumbled face, but at least quick passes with the 120 & 200 grit pads (I have up to 3000, but that is clearly too high a polish!) Then I can seal the coping and add the sale.
Am I going too far waiting to add the salt until I've sealed the travertine?
Current chemistry (pb's pool guy obviously just dumped a load of ma and trichlor in)
FC 13
CC <.5
CH 455 (meh, my coping work can't be helping this, but once rainy season takes over I'm sure my overflow will slowly lower this)
TA 40 (was 70 when first filled, one of the returns strongly breaks the surface, and pool was drinking ma like it was going out of style initially)
CYA 55 (figure one more one or two more weeks of trichlor and I should be right in range for the swcg down here in Florida)
pH 7.2
PS I've made sure he wasn't using Cal Hypo, he says he won't touch the stuff.
Different pieces of coping, but before and after the 60 grit:
I'm not sure how much finer a grit I need to polish it up too before it ~matches the tumbled face, but at least quick passes with the 120 & 200 grit pads (I have up to 3000, but that is clearly too high a polish!) Then I can seal the coping and add the sale.
Am I going too far waiting to add the salt until I've sealed the travertine?
Current chemistry (pb's pool guy obviously just dumped a load of ma and trichlor in)
FC 13
CC <.5
CH 455 (meh, my coping work can't be helping this, but once rainy season takes over I'm sure my overflow will slowly lower this)
TA 40 (was 70 when first filled, one of the returns strongly breaks the surface, and pool was drinking ma like it was going out of style initially)
CYA 55 (figure one more one or two more weeks of trichlor and I should be right in range for the swcg down here in Florida)
pH 7.2
PS I've made sure he wasn't using Cal Hypo, he says he won't touch the stuff.