Hi hoping to get some help on what could possibly be wrong with my pool heater. We just bought a home with a pool and i have no experience maintaining a pool. The pool and system haven't been ran in over a year and a half so it goes without saying that the pool and filters were filthy. I went to local pool supply place had water tested, got new filters and have cleaned up the pool and water right. My Jandy is still showing the Low Pressure error and won't turn on, i've looked online and few people are saying that it could be the pressure sensor failing. I can't locate the pressure sensor on the unit to replace. Anyone who could help me out i would appreciate it.
Jandy LX250 Pool Heater
- Thread starter talbritt
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
A picture of the equipment would help us answer your questions.
Also, what does the filter pressure gauge read, what does the water look like, and do the return jets feel strong?
A picture of the equipment would help us answer your questions.
Also, what does the filter pressure gauge read, what does the water look like, and do the return jets feel strong?
Thanks for the response, what pictures do you need? The whole system or just the water heater? The pressure on the filter is 30-32 psi, the water has cleared up but still has some debris on the bottom, the sweep isn't functioning right now and needs to be repaired as well. The return jets feel strong. The pool was neglected by the previous owner, couldn't get much information from them on what was wrong with items. They said that the spa/pool heater worked fine the last time they tried using it over a year and half ago.
Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
That pressure seems awfully high. Either you have a giant pump and a lot of restriction or the gauge is bad. Does it go to zero when turned off?
Given strong flow, that should indicate that your heater is getting enough flow.
That pressure seems awfully high. Either you have a giant pump and a lot of restriction or the gauge is bad. Does it go to zero when turned off?
Given strong flow, that should indicate that your heater is getting enough flow.
For a picture, it is useful to see how things are connected, where there are valves and what position they are in, what equipment you have, etc. Essentially, we are looking for an overview of the equipment pad plumbing with enough detail to see the valve positions (if any).
Here's a link to a manual.
https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/images/pdfs/JandyLXLT.pdf
Like the others, maybe a valve not turned correctly
https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/images/pdfs/JandyLXLT.pdf
Like the others, maybe a valve not turned correctly
So here are the pictures to my system. I managed to access the pressure switch, bypassed the fireman switch and it fired right on. Any suggestions on what to do for a permanent fix?
OK so if I'm seeing it correctly, it appears the water is always flowing thru the heater. If that's the case and your filter is clean and bypassing the pressure switch causes the heater to fire, I would try replacing the pressure switch.
I agree, all of the water does appear to be going through the heater, which points to the pressure switch having failed.
Thanks for the help, i bypassed the firemans switch. Does that bypass the pressure switch as well?
Normally the fireman switch and the pressure switch are separate. Typically there is an electrical run that passes through all of the safety switches. Now and again the fireman switch is on that same run, though often it is a separate circuit. In any case, if you are jumping across the pressure switch, you want to only jump across that one switch, not the entire safety circuit and not the fireman switch.
The fireman and the pressure switch are seperate here too. Here is a picture of the fireman switch. When i disconnected the two white wires on the right side and touched them together the Low Pressure error cleared and the system kicked on and began heating. Everything i've read about the purpose of the fireman switch is to allow for the system to cool down before the filter shuts off. Is it possible the fireman switch is stuck and needs to be replaced or could it be something else?
Thank you all again for the help, trying to get the hang of all of this.
http://s10.postimg.org/ctyo5okcp/Full_Size_Render.jpg
Thank you all again for the help, trying to get the hang of all of this.
http://s10.postimg.org/ctyo5okcp/Full_Size_Render.jpg
Curious. That completely changes my guess at what is going on.
It looks like you must have an automation system. One common way to connect the automation system to the heater is through the fireman switch. I expect that the yellow and green wires run to the automation system.
Have you been trying to turn the heater on via the automation system, or directly from the heater front panel? When you have an automation system the heater is controlled by the automation system and you should normally leave the heater front panel alone.
It looks like you must have an automation system. One common way to connect the automation system to the heater is through the fireman switch. I expect that the yellow and green wires run to the automation system.
Have you been trying to turn the heater on via the automation system, or directly from the heater front panel? When you have an automation system the heater is controlled by the automation system and you should normally leave the heater front panel alone.
It does have an automation system, i've tried allowing it go through the automation as well as turning it on at the heater front panel. Prior to bypassing the fireman switch it didn't turn on either way. It just kept reading low pressure, once i bypassed the fireman switch it worked in service mode, haven't tried with the automated though.
Curiouser and curiouser. There is something we haven't understood going on here.
The fireman switch shouldn't give a pressure switch error. And if the yellow and green wires went to the automation system, as I imagine, you shouldn't be able to control the heater remotely at all as soon as you jump across the fireman switch.
One thing to check that might clear things up: where do the yellow and green wires go?
The fireman switch shouldn't give a pressure switch error. And if the yellow and green wires went to the automation system, as I imagine, you shouldn't be able to control the heater remotely at all as soon as you jump across the fireman switch.
One thing to check that might clear things up: where do the yellow and green wires go?
Thanks Jason,
The green and yellow wires come from one cable that connects to the Aqualink system. I've tried it on automatic as well as service and the only way I can get it to ignite is by bypassing the fireman switch. http://s14.postimg.org/wtrk0e2b5/Full_Size_Render7.jpg
The green and yellow wires come from one cable that connects to the Aqualink system. I've tried it on automatic as well as service and the only way I can get it to ignite is by bypassing the fireman switch. http://s14.postimg.org/wtrk0e2b5/Full_Size_Render7.jpg
I'm running out of ideas. Bypassing the fireman switch allowing it to turn on makes sense, but having done that it should be impossible for the automation system to control the heater.
The pool heater won't turn on in automatic mode. I have the other systems(pool filter, water features, lights) turn on automatically it calls for the heater but since it's bypassed I have to turn it on at the unit itself. I'd like to be able to do it automatically, would changing out the fireman switch fix this? Or could it be something else?