Spring is almost here, time for Stenner

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PigIron

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Sep 16, 2014
161
North DFW
Spring is almost here (although not this week in North Texas), and it is time for a Stenner installation on a newly constructed IG pool. When we built our pool, we made sure we upgraded the Jandy logic board to ensure we had additional aux inputs. I plan on using an aux input to control the stenner pump. There are a couple of questions that I would like to ask before I take the plunge on the install.

1. I don't understand the difference between the 0-25 psi and 26-100 psi models. They both seem to offer the same flow rates. Which one would I need?
2. If I understand correctly, since I can program a schedule for the pump to run, a simple single head fixed rate pump is what I need.
3. If I plan on using the logic board, would I need to cut off the end of the electrical cable and hardwire the pump? I think this is frowned upon, as it can't be removed as easily during the winter.
4. Does the voltage matter? I have both 120 and 220 available at the pad.
5. On our chlorine tab feeder (which has never been used), there appears to be a port on the underside that I could tap into to supply the chlorine to the pool. When I start to unscrewing it, water starts coming out, so I think I can just screw in the end of stenner tube directly to this port.

Any advice or comments are welcome.

Thanks
 
1) The differences are minimal and either will work in most installs. I believe that the high pressure model comes with a check valve.
2) Yep.
3) You can wire the output of the timer to an outlet box and plug the Stenner into that.
4) Get the voltage that is easiest to supply. 120 is good if you plan to use an outlet as in #3.
5) That isn't a good idea. You don't want any risk of mixing concentrated chlorine of two different types. An injection port after the filter & heater is simple to add and usually the best solution, but if adding an injection port really bothers you can use one of the drain plugs on the pump as an injection point.
 
To expand on what Jason said.
1. The high pressure models come with a check valve. The big difference in the high and low pressure model is that the #4 or#5 tubes which are the 35 & 50 GPD tubes in the 45 series can't be used for high pressures. You can use them in the same head they just won't stand high pressures. In pool applications it really doesn't matter which pressure model you get, but I recommend the high pressure model because of the check valve. That way if the tubing breaks you don't have a stream of water spewing out of the insertion fitting.
 
Good advice so far. I would get teh 120v model and use your logic board to trip a relay to turn the power to an outlet dedicated to the Stenner. This keeps you from cutting off the end of the plug wire.

Jason is correct, just cut a threaded "T" into the plumbing after all equipment for your injection point.
 
I have almost completed the Stenner pump installation today. I added an external outlet that feeds from my gfci line in the equipment panel. One plug is always hot, while the other is driven from an aux relay, which I can control/program to run when ever. I am stumped on how to drill and thread into my existing PVC for the injection point. Can anybody assist me on how to do this? Right now I just used the drain plug on the pump. I have not turned it on yet, as I'm not sure if the drain plug is a viable option.

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I ordered a 15 gallon chlorine holder tank last year---just haven't pulled the trigger on a pump yet. Watching your install though. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that using a drain plug on the pump would let that direct chlorine injection eat up the seals and also isn't good for the spider gasket on a sand filter?

The instructions don't tell you what size hole to drill and what size tap to use for PVC? Taps just cut threads in the hole you'll drill so you can screw in a fitting.
 
Using the drain plug is fine, if you want.

To create an injection point you normally buy a small fitting designed to clamp onto the pipe. It will come with instructions saying what size hole to drill. There is also a version that screws in, and again it will come with instructions.
 
woodyp said:
I ordered a 15 gallon chlorine holder tank last year---just haven't pulled the trigger on a pump yet. Watching your install though. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that using a drain plug on the pump would let that direct chlorine injection eat up the seals and also isn't good for the spider gasket on a sand filter?

The instructions don't tell you what size hole to drill and what size tap to use for PVC? Taps just cut threads in the hole you'll drill so you can screw in a fitting.
Click to expand...

The instructions say 1/4" or 1/2" FNPT. I was also worried about the equipment, which is why I didn't start the pump yet. Ideally, I would like to take out the inline chlorine tab dispenser and replace it with just a straight PVC with the injection point tapped there. But I am not sure the union's that came on the dispenser are standard size/threads, or some proprietary fitting.

- - - Updated - - -

JasonLion said:
Using the drain plug is fine, if you want.

To create an injection point you normally buy a small fitting designed to clamp onto the pipe. It will come with instructions saying what size hole to drill. There is also a version that screws in, and again it will come with instructions.
Click to expand...

You don't happen to have a link to something so I can see what you are talking about?
 
If it were me, I would not plumb it straight to the pump, but that's my background. It may not be critical in the short term, but it sure can't be good for the pump, and certainly not the heater.

The very best set up would be an injection quill into a tee down stream of everything if the pump can buck the pressure. If not possible, then the next best option is what you have to take.

I'm not knocking you pigiron, but since Woody asked, I'm injecting my Opinion.
 

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I used the drain plug on the pump,basket for several months until I sorted things out without issue. You are really not injecting that much bleach at one time so I doubt if equipment damage is an issue.

If you have any flex in the return line you can just cut out a section and add a PVC "T" that has the branch threaded. If you don't have enough flex to install the T you can do it with unions like I had to.

You can look at my install thread for photos of both my using the drain plug and adding a T to the return line.
 
tim5055 said:
If you don't have enough flex to install the T you can do it with unions like I had to.
Click to expand...

Well, I gave it a shot. I didn't have any flex available, so I gave a union a try.

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Unfortunately, I made the fitting a bit too short and it wouldn't pull tight. I had a very small drip leak afterword. :brickwall: So I'll try and build a new fitting just a bit longer in the morning.

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Bama Rambler said:
It's hard to tell, but is that union missing the o-ring? That small a gap should pull up and seal without issue as long as the o-ring is in the groove.
Click to expand...

I wish that were the case. What the picture does not show is that there is a 2nd return line run in parallel right next to this one. Both are connected together with a fitting just above the union, so there was virtually zero wiggle room. I built another tee fitting just slightly longer and installed it this morning. I think I strained my elbow installing it, cause it was just a tad too long! :brickwall: I got it in there, I think the o-rings are seated, as there appears to be no more leaks. :)
 
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