Hi, apparently when I did the CYA test, I could not get the black dot to disappear. This test has always been difficult for me even when I had the HTH 6 way test kit I could not get a reading. But at Leslie's they are consistently getting 30. Can you please tell me how to read it, the black dot on the bottom is not disappearing. As a result I went to add some chlorine puck to pool using the little white and blue floater and the tablets fell on the bottom of my pool (help, how do I remove it, I can see it, but the water is not safe for me to get in to it right now). Will the tablet tear the liner (the liner is only 3 years old)?
CYA test using TFP 100 Test Kit
- Thread starter poolhelp
- Start date
If the tabs fell out of the chlorinator, I assume they are the tabs that look like giant Tylenol, and not the 3" pucks? If they are the tylenol kind, just vacuum them up. They will bleach your liner if they sit on the same spot. If you cannot vac them, try to scrape them out with your brush. Or just jump in quick and retrieve them, and rinse off well when you get out!
I can't help with the CYA test portion of your question
I can't help with the CYA test portion of your question
I wouldn't worry about what the pool store got if you have a good test kit. Trust your own numbers. I have had pool store readings that were as low as half and as high as three times higher than what I measured. If your level is very low the dot will never dissapear.
One thing to try is to wait a little longer and see if that makes any difference. Mix for 30 seconds, wait two to three minutes, mix for another 10 seconds, then try to get a reading. If your water is very cold you might want to bring your water sample inside and let it warm up before testing.
You should be able to get the tabs out with a brush or net.
Good Luck!
One thing to try is to wait a little longer and see if that makes any difference. Mix for 30 seconds, wait two to three minutes, mix for another 10 seconds, then try to get a reading. If your water is very cold you might want to bring your water sample inside and let it warm up before testing.
You should be able to get the tabs out with a brush or net.
Good Luck!
Rangerman
LifeTime Supporter
poolhelp said:
Now, I'm not an expert by any means, but if you are relying on tri-chlor pucks to add CYA to your water, you'll be at it a long time. Di-Chlor shock does not have any stabilizing effect for your chlorine, only Tri-Chlor does. Use the BleachCalc on this site to determine where you want your level to be then add CYA accordingly, preferably thru the skimmers in order for the granules to get into the system more quickly. Keep in mind it may take several days for the CYA granules to completely dissolve in order to get an accurate reading of the new and improved CYA level.
Both dichlor and trichlor contain CYA. In fact dichlor contains more CYA per unit of chlorine than trichlor. I belive that dichlor is .9 ppm of CYA for each ppm of chlorine and trichlor is .6 ppm of CYA for each ppm of chlorine. Unless you are fighting algae by shocking with dichlor it will take many days to get your CYA level up, but then CYA disolves slowly when added directly and so also takes many days.
Rangerman
LifeTime Supporter
Sorry - correction. Cal Hypo will raise your CYA faster than Tri-Chlor.
Di-Chlor won't raise your CYA.
I'd better leave the chemistry to the experts.
Di-Chlor won't raise your CYA.
I'd better leave the chemistry to the experts.
Just for reference, dichlor and trichlor are both stabilized chlorine (chlorinated isocyanurates) and will raise you CYA levels, dichlor raising them more for a given value of FC added. Sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine or bleach), lithium hypochlorite, and calcium hypochlorite are unstabilized chlorine and will NOT raise CYA levels. However cal hypo will cause calcium levels to rise and can cause cloudy water if your TA is high.