black algae and test kit

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Poollife

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Apr 30, 2014
100
California
So I found this site after I already had black algae and have used most tips and have not allowed the ba grow but also have not been able to get rid of it and it's probably because I have a simple pool test kit, is the Taylor 20006 just as good as the tf100 because it's 20$ cheaper, is tftestkit.com the only place to buy it?

Also my main drain is tied to skimmer and I don't have the spaceship float diverted anymore could that have cause the growth of ba at the deep end?
 
The K-2006 is neither better and worse than the TF-100. Essentially it is less well balanced, having lots of some tests and too little of others. The TF-100 more than pays for it's self in not needing refills for much longer. TFTestKits.net is the only place to get the TF-100, while the K-2006 is available from many sources. There is a more detailed comparison in Pool School.

The main drain, or lack thereof, is not a significant issue with black algae. It takes an extended period of way too low FC levels to get black algae. There is an article on fighting black algae in Pool School, not easy and not always successful.
 
The K-2006 and the TF-100 use the same reagents and have basically the same test. BUT, while the TF-100 might cost a little more, you get a LOT more of the reagents that you actually need so it is better value. In fact, given that you have algae and likely need to follow the SLAM process, getting the TF-100 with the XL option would be my recommendation.

FYI, being in CA, you can get the TF-100 from poolsupplyworld.com faster and for less shipping $. They are west coast distributor for tftestkits.net, but PSW does not have the XL option for the FAS-DPD chlorine test.
 
Check out the number of tests you can do with each kit, and then decide. Comparison
Also be aware that the FAS-DPD refills are very hard to find in stock locally.

The diverter didn't cause the black algae directly. However, poor circulation might have caused the chlorine level in certain areas of the pool to get too low, especially if there's no swimming or brushing going on to ensure things stay well-mixed. Do you recall jumping in and discovering the depths are a whole lot colder than you were anticipating? If so, you have poor circulation. A diverter will help, and so will playing with the return jets. Aim one down towards the deep end to keep things moving.
 
Thank you all for your help on the test kits, as for the black algae and it not growing because its winter, lets say my cya is 100 since I can't get the test by this weekend, and my pool is roughly 25k gals, how many gallons of liquid chlorine should i put in on friday, sat and sunday to hopefully kill it
 
If CYA is 100 you have a problem you need to deal with first. The common CYA tests will report any CYA level of 100 or higher as if it was 100. So you actual CYA level could be far higher than you think. You need to replace water until CYA is below 100, preferably down around 80 if you have a SWG, or 60 if you don't.

Second, simply adding large amounts of chlorine will not kill black algae. See the article on How to Fight Black Algae for more information. And don't actually bother trying to fight the black algae until you have gotten CYA down to something more reasonable.
 
Correct. You can not blindly start adding chlorine and expect good results ... that is what a pool store would have you do. The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS and not what someone wants to sell you.

Have you reviewed the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process. You add the required amount of bleach to achieve a certain FC level that is a function of your CYA level multiple times a day. As Jason said, you need to know the CYA first and may need to adjust it before you start to fight the algae.

Please add your location (City, State or City, Country) to your profile and pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
 

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It is extremely unusual to find a K-2006 in stock at a physical store. People have found it a couple of times, but 98% of the time no luck.

Test strips are by far the worst way to measure CYA. We never recommend using test strips, and they are especially bad at measuring CYA.

I don't see any point in rushing this process. It takes a long time to get black algae, and it is going to take a long time to get rid of it. It is best to avoid duplicating effort, and simply wait until you have everything you need.

If you absolutely must get an estimate of your CYA level right now, your best bet is to have a pool store measure it for you. That is a little hit or miss, but still better odds than a test strip.
 
JasonLion said:
If you absolutely must get an estimate of your CYA level right now, your best bet is to have a pool store measure it for you. That is a little hit or miss, but still better odds than a test strip.
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Assuming the that store is not use a test strip with or without a fancy computer trying to read the color. Make sure they are using the turbidity test where the black dot is obscured. And even then proceed with caution. Many reports of the pool store CYA results being wildly inaccurate are told throughout the forum.
 
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