Newbie Needs Help!!! Pool Guy Broke My Filter....

My pool maintenance guy came today to do his regular cleaning and also to replace the button on the side of the pool that turns the spa jets on and off. When I returned home from work I received a voicemail explaining that the pool was shut off due to the Hayward C17502 filter being broken and that the entire unit needs to be replaced. I just went out to check what was wrong and it has to do with the iron rod in the center of the filter that screws into the base and also allows the top to be tightened down. The thread in the base is completely gone thus not allowing the iron rod to be screwed into the base. Upon calling the pool guy to talk about what happened, he told me that he wasn't the one that replaced the button for the jets but a third party who is a friend but he was there helping. He told me that the when they turned the system on to bleed it and check that the button was working, once the pressure built up for the filter to work the filter and top housing including iron rod shot up in the air like a rocket. When I inspected the filter housing it appears to have marks from a rubber mallet or something it was hit with and also lots on strike marks in the plastic. Is it possible for his story to be truthful? I know I will never be able to prove anything but it all just doesn't make any sense to me. I am just going to try get this problem solved and not dwell on whose fault it is. My question is, is there a way to repair what is broken in the lower body. I need to replace the thread that the iron rod screws into. Are these threads plastic or metal? Do I need to replace the entire lower body or could I buy a larger metal plug with female threading then drill out a larger hole in the lower body where the original threads were then tightly fit and epoxy or fix the metal plug into that larger hole thus reinstalling threads to receive the rod again? I have searched the haywards parts section but have not come across this part or even a drawing that shows its engineering. The pool guy wants around $700 to fix this and I just refuse to pay for something that wasn't broken before he and his friend came to fix a separate issue. If I have to replace the filter housing I will but if you guys think it is feasible to repair it or if you suggest a different method please let me know! I apologize if I am such a newbie and sound like I have no idea what I am talking about!! I would like to take care of this tomorrow or the next day before having the system turned off has detrimental effects on the water and other parts of the system. Thanks in advance guys!!!
 
Someone more knowledgable than me will be along soon to help you resolve your issue re: the replacement thread. I wanted to say welcome, unfortunately your first visit entails a very frustrating situation. I did a quick google search for the cost of a replacement filter (same model number) and the prices ranged in the ~$500 range. I certainly would not pay $700 to the person who broke it to fix it; I'd rather just buy a new one and save a couple hundred bucks.

I hope it turns out you can fix this for the price of a new thread fitting. There are a lot of experts here who will be able to tell you exactly what you need to know.
 
It sounds he screwed up and did something wrong like maybe opening the filter clamp without relieving air first or turning on the pump with the multiport valve closed. This could have resulted in some serious property damage or even worse, injury or death. Scary stuff right there. If he broke it, he should be responsible for repair or replacement. Anyway, if you have a good brush , net , test kit and some basic knowledge about pool water chemistry you'll be fine without the filter while you sort out getting a new one installed.
 
It was a C1750 so there would not be a multiport valve on it. Is there a diverter valve after the pump and filter that could have been closed while they were building up pressure? Unless you can re-thread the base of the tie rod somehow, a replacement of the base would be necessary.

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And like the previous posted said, if he broke it that he needs to pay for fixing it, especially if he let someone who is not qualified near your equipment. I'm no lawyer but that has to be against some kind of rule, law or ordinance.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys!! The problem with saying it was his fault is that I have no proof and the filter is almost 5 years old. I will check if there are any valves that could've been closed tomorrow. This is possible as the button they were working on makes an automatic valve move within the system. There was no replacing the thread when I drained it today as the thread fitting was machine pressed into the bottom housing during production. I did mange to drill out the threaded fitting and replace it with an expanding insert that widens as I screwed the tie rod into it. I also put a lot of epoxy in the hole before putting this in. I am waiting for the epoxy to cure for 24 hours and then we will see if it's ok to leave alone. I figure I would've had to replace it totally anyway so if this doesn't work that's what I will do. The problem with accusing him of doing anything is that he is also my next door neighbor so I would rather just eat the $50 to repair and even the $300 to replace and keep the peace. I am however contemplating starting to all the upkeep and maintenance myself as he only comes once a week for about 10 -15 minutes and I give him 90 a month to walk around a fence on his way home. It's a saltwater pool with an ionizer though so I don't know if that makes too much of a difference. Thank you all once again for the warm welcomes and the advice I'll post some pictures of the repair and the system to see what was possible. Time to buy some salt pool maintenance books and save some money!! Thanks again!
 
Thanks for all the replies guys!! The problem with saying it was his fault is that I have no proof and the filter is almost 5 years old. I will check if there are any valves that could've been closed tomorrow. This is possible as the button they were working on makes an automatic valve move within the system. There was no replacing the thread when I drained it today as the thread fitting was machine pressed into the bottom housing during production. I did mange to drill out the threaded fitting and replace it with an expanding insert that widens as I screwed the tie rod into it. I also put a lot of epoxy in the hole before putting this in. I am waiting for the epoxy to cure for 24 hours and then we will see if it's ok to leave alone. I figure I would've had to replace it totally anyway so if this doesn't work that's what I will do. The problem with accusing him of doing anything is that he is also my next door neighbor so I would rather just eat the $50 to repair and even the $300 to replace and keep the peace. I am however contemplating starting to all the upkeep and maintenance myself as he only comes once a week for about 10 -15 minutes and I give him 90 a month to walk around a fence on his way home. It's a saltwater pool with an ionizer though so I don't know if that makes too much of a difference. Thank you all once again for the warm welcomes and the advice I'll post some pictures of the repair and the system to see what was possible. Time to buy some salt pool maintenance books and save some money!! Thanks again!

Hmmm...interesting stuff. I would certainly be prepared to turn the pump off quickly if it looks like the pressure in the filter is just building up and up. Do you think that the output side of the filter could be prevented from reaching the pool and thus circulating? So the input side draws water, the output side is blocked....could that cause an overpressure issue in the filter? I wonder if that switch he replaced is actually working, is there any way of testing that prior to running the pump?
 
Hmmm...interesting stuff. I would certainly be prepared to turn the pump off quickly if it looks like the pressure in the filter is just building up and up. Do you think that the output side of the filter could be prevented from reaching the pool and thus circulating? So the input side draws water, the output side is blocked....could that cause an overpressure issue in the filter? I wonder if that switch he replaced is actually working, is there any way of testing that prior to running the pump?

Unfortunately there is no way of checking so see if the switch works with out the pump running. I just went out to check and see what all the return valves are set too, there are 3 total for jets and fountain etc.. The one thing that makes sense to me is that normally all these valves are somewhat open to a certain degree depending on if I want regular water return with mild flow through spa jets or stronger fountain flow and vice versa. When I just looked I noticed that the returns to pool were all closed apart from the jets, which was wide open. That means that every drop of water that was being pumped out of the pool and into the filter was then being returned through 3 small spa jets on the ledge seat in the pool. Do you think that is enough to build up pressure to blow the filter threading? The switch he was working on was to turn these jets on and off but the automatic valve is placed pool side of the jets flow valve. If that makes sense. The flow valve is open to a certain degree all the time then when I push the button in the ground the automatic valve opens and closes allowing flow. If this is the case I am worried because if it had enough pressure to blow steel threads out of the ground, then how can I be sure no pipes or other components are broken under ground? I will also be saying something to the guy if this is the case because then I believe he is responsible for replacement even if my repair works. He is a nice guy and I don't want to fall out with anyone and trust me I know everyone makes mistakes. I am a medical professional and I understand no one is perfect but when mistakes happen ownership should take place. Anyway rant over!! I will keep you posted how it goes when I turn it back on tomorrow afternoon when the epoxy has cured.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys!!......Time to buy some salt pool maintenance books and save some money!! Thanks again!

Before you go buy some unnecessary books you may want to check out this site's Pool School (button right between the Home and Forum buttons). It's totally free and covers practically every topic on residential pool care. Many pool books mimic the care instructions provided by pool stores, an ever repeating roller coaster ride of chemical additions, water drains and wallet withdrawals. If you want to save yourself lots of $$$ and aggravation, invest an hour or 2 reading pool school, and browse the forum for additional advice from some truly knowledgable folks.
 
Do not underestimate the power of that lid when it blows off. That filter needs to be replaced or you may wind up with a serious problem on your hands. Again, the guy is lucky to be alive, and you're lucky the thing didn't blow a hole right through the wall of your house or the neighbors. It is definitely possible for the pressure to have caused a leak somewhere, but there is no point in speculating about that. You'll know if you have a leak soon enough. Lid blowing off filter is 100% user error and a properly maintained filter should not need to be replaced after 5 years.
 

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If you are going to end up replacing the filter, lets make sure it is the recommended size for your pool ... if you add your pool details, we will be able to offer that advice ... even if you do not take it until sometime in the future. ;)
 
How much pressure does your pump actually build up to? I can dead head my system and the pressure only goes to like 27 or so. Even if it breaks it's only going to lose water, not blow off and kill someone. Water can't be compressed, so it's not like a tire blowing out that actually releases a massive amount of force. If you aren't there and it breaks it will cause your pool to drain and your pump to lose prime. You don't want it sitting there running dry for hours and damage your pump. I doubt any plumbing would have been damaged. Two inch schedule 40 PVC pipe has a pressure rating of 280 psi at 73 degrees; derated to half that with threaded fittings. If you are confident in your repair I say let it ride. If you want the extra security, replace the base and the rods. It sounds like they were horribly corroded for some reason and one broke when it was tightened. As for why it was open in the first place, maybe that is part of what he usually checks when he stops by.


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A 24" diameter filter is 452 square inches. Assume a reasonable 30psi. That is over 13,500 pounds of force pushing up on the filter lid. That could certainly cause injury or death if it let go and you were in the wrong spot.
 
A 24" diameter filter is 452 square inches. Assume a reasonable 30psi. That is over 13,500 pounds of force pushing up on the filter lid. That could certainly cause injury or death if it let go and you were in the wrong spot.

That is absolutely correct... if it was air instead of water. Water is incompressible, so it doesn't store the potential energy that air does when it is compressed. A failure with air results in the air immediately and violently going back to its uncompressed volume, whereas water will just start being pushed out the top of the filter by the pump.


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