Flowvis Flow Meter

I think the outlet side of the filter is a better position so debris does not get in the way of the check valve closing and not sealing properly.
 
Installed a Flow-vis check valve today after my heat pump. Had to remove and replace the 8 screws and apply silicone grease to the o-ring 3-4 times before I was able to get a good seal without any leaks at higher pump RPMs.

Approx how accurate is the Flow-vis reported GPM?


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Miles,

You might want to check out the meaning of OCD... :poke:

Jim R.

LOL. All kidding aside, my PB installed a Jandy check valve after my heat pump. I replaced the valve with a Flowvis retrofit kit. However I couldn't seem to get a tight seal in on one particular side of the valve lid no matter how hard I tightened the screws. So I finally removed it again and liberally applied the silicone grease and tightened again, starting with the side that was leaking. This time it seemed to make a good seal. Yes, it was making me crazy! [emoji51]


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A good reason to have it on the return side is to let it double as a check valve, just before chlorine injection or an SWG. I can swap mine with the check valve on my solar heat and do calculations on heat output, but yep it's mostly a human interest kinda device. If you have a buddy with a Jandy check valve you can share it. I like having it with the VS pump. Friction loss is a cost, albeit minor, unless it's doubling as a needed check valve. If it isn't needed after you know the system, you can remove it and replace with a cover with no check valve in it.

I might get poked with a stick for OCD, but I tighten them in a star pattern, going around twice, like a truck wheel.

Glad you found TFP :)
 
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