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Thread: Tile & coping remodel question

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    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    The Woodlands, TX
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    Tile & coping remodel question

    We're finally gutting up and replacing the waterline tile and coping on our 6 year old pool (existing material was too soft for SWG in our region).

    Anyways, getting quotes from several folks which seem to be fairly consistent in price for same scope of work. However, I'm getting various caveats regarding the need to re-plaster. Some have suggested that simple tile replacement will look much less appealing without re-plastering. (due to tile size viability and current plaster color). Our existing tiles are 6" square slate at the waterline. Plaster is dark blue diamondbrite and is in good shape. No matter what, new tiles will be ceramic!

    Seems kind of odd to me since new tiles could be cut to size to square things up if needed. It will just take more time & care on behalf of the tiling crew. Would also be a shame to waste an otherwise fine plaster finish.

    Any thoughts on this from those with experience with remodeling a pool.

    Thanks
    27K gal Rectangular w/ spa; Midnight Blue DB surface; Hayward TriStar 2.7/2.0 W/525 cart filter; h400 heater & T-Cell 15 SWG.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Tile & coping remodel question

    Normally plaster is applied right up to the tile without grout in-between where the two materials meet up. Once you remove the old tile, it is difficult to get a really good seal to the existing plaster and you risk damaging the edge of the plaster in places. Generally you need to cut the new tile a little smaller and use a sealant between the new tile and the old plaster, which always shows at least a little.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: Tile & coping remodel question

    I see no need to re-plaster. Your tile man may have to spend a little extra time to make it look decent, but it surely can be done.

    I see no technical reason why the plaster/tile joint couldn't be "cut" with a right angle grinder, tile removed, new tile put back on and then grouted below the new tile (when the rest of the grout is applied) to finish the edge between new tile and old plaster.
    Dave S.
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    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    The Woodlands, TX
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    Re: Tile & coping remodel question

    Thanks for the replies.

    Yes. Every contractor has mentioned cutting the plaster at the tile line using a diamond saw so I think they all understand technically how to do it. I've had a couple of additional contractors review and I'm getting the impression the bigger outfits view this as a low value job and want to add more to make it worth their time. I've had a number of companies tell me their too flush with new builds to consider a remodel right now. I guess the economy truly is raging here.

    Since nobody has said my plaster is otherwise in bad shape, I think I'm going to keep the plaster and hope for the best. I'd rather use the additional cash to finally get my outdoor kitchen put in.
    27K gal Rectangular w/ spa; Midnight Blue DB surface; Hayward TriStar 2.7/2.0 W/525 cart filter; h400 heater & T-Cell 15 SWG.

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    Re: Tile & coping remodel question

    Hi Hansom-Man, what did you end up doing with your tile? We are facing a similar situation, so I would love to hear if it worked without replastering. Thanks!


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