Replacing cracked filter

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T

thundercleese

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Feb 22, 2013
9
Came home to sounds of water shooting out of my Hayward C800 filter housing Friday. I bought the house in 1998 & it's been there at least since then, no idea when the pool was built.

I've been reading the forums and it seems a lot of people like the Pentair Clean & Clear series. The current filter is 75 cubic feet, so going to a Pentair 150 should decrease cleaning intervals right? The C&C+ 240 is temping as the filters are half the cost but wouldn't that be comically overkill?

I attached some pictures of the current setup. I'd like to enclose the whole thing in a box but never saw such a setup in Florida, the heat may be too much in the summer. Anything else I should update while I'm at it?

Jim
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I would definitely add unions and shut off valves between the pump and filter and the filter and the return line. I would also slide the filter back towards the rear of the pump so you have more space to work with between the filter and where the return line goes into the ground in case you want to add a piece of equipment in the future. Also since you have a cartridge filter you should add a "T" to the line between the pump and the filter so you can vacuum to waste or drain the pool if you need to in the future. Find a "T" with two slip ends and a threaded end. Plumb in the slip ends and use a screw in cap for the threaded end. Then if you ever need to vacuum to waste you can screw in a waste hose adapter, attach the hose and you're good to go!

If your pump is sitting in the dirt I would put some patio blocks under it and maybe some gravel around it to keep mud from being splashed on it when it rains.
 
zea3 said:
I would definitely add unions and shut off valves between the pump and filter and the filter and the return line. I would also slide the filter back towards the rear of the pump so you have more space to work with between the filter and where the return line goes into the ground in case you want to add a piece of equipment in the future. Also since you have a cartridge filter you should add a "T" to the line between the pump and the filter so you can vacuum to waste or drain the pool if you need to in the future. Find a "T" with two slip ends and a threaded end. Plumb in the slip ends and use a screw in cap for the threaded end. Then if you ever need to vacuum to waste you can screw in a waste hose adapter, attach the hose and you're good to go!

If your pump is sitting in the dirt I would put some patio blocks under it and maybe some gravel around it to keep mud from being splashed on it when it rains.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input! I have a few questions about your reply:
  1. What about the filter size?
  2. The pool has an overflow pipe, but no drain line at the jandy valve. Any draining would go in the yard/street, still a good idea?
  3. Is the sole purpose of the shutoff valves to divert water to the aforementioned drain?

Any pictures of this setup & especially the T would be helpful! Oh and the pump/filter is sitting on a slab, albeit a dirty one.
 
The C&C+ 240 is temping as the filters are half the cost but wouldn't that be comically overkill?
Click to expand...
Actually, a cartridge filter can never be really too big. I haven't done any math but choose the one that suits your needs best.

(A Sand or DE filter can be too big in some rare instances but never a cartridge.)
 
You could always build something that didn't necessarily enclose the equipment but left one side open away from the pool so it screened the equipment from sight and cut down on equipment noise while you're enjoying your pool. Or enclose it and make sure you have air circulation on the side away from the pool.
 
I agree that if you can swing it, go with the bigger filter. As far as cartridges go, the bigger they are the longer the filters actually last, and you wont have to clean them so often. If you ever have a algae outbreak, you wil pray that your filter was much bigger.

You can put a union in front of the pump. No problem if you want to do that.

A valve at the return after the filter, is extremely useful. It makes priming soooo much easier after youve taken the lid off to clean the pump basket. Closing that valve prevents your filter from draining all of the water out of it when you take the pump lid off.

You just gotta make sure that you dont forget to open the valve back up when you're done. (ask me how I know!).

thundercleese said:
couple more questions:

should I not put a union at the pump input, between the jandy and the pump?
what is the purpose of the shut-off on the return line?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks to everyone who helped. I got the filter and plumbed everything as suggested. Please take a look and tell me how I did before I glue everything in.

uc


uc


uc
 

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