schrody said:
I hope your pump was still going when you added the chlorine. IF it didn't disperse properly it could puddle in one area and damage your liner.....
I hope your pump's not damaged from running dry. Good luck.
It's been green awhile
- Thread starter schrody
- Start date
I hope your pump was still going when you added the chlorine. IF it didn't disperse properly it could puddle in one area and damage your liner.....
I hope your pump's not damaged from running dry. Good luck.
His pump took care of itself. The Pentair VF should have shut down and gave him an alarm of "Loss of Prime".
It's nice to have a pump that thinks for itself.
It's nice to have a pump that thinks for itself.
Hotrod30 said:His pump took care of itself. The Pentair VF should have shut down and gave him an alarm of "Loss of Prime".
It's nice to have a pump that thinks for itself.
Oh. I love modern technology!
Yes, for what I paid for the pump...it better be smart! It does appear that something is wrong with the valve on top of the filter. Once it had enough water to turn the pump on I noticed the return jets were working fine and the pump primed ok...but then I went to look over the back fence and see a small amount is also going to waste. Time to get brave and take the valve apart. Wish me luck!
frustratedpoolmom: I added the bleach last night about an hour before I backwashed so it should have circulated properly. Is that the wrong order to do things though?
frustratedpoolmom: I added the bleach last night about an hour before I backwashed so it should have circulated properly. Is that the wrong order to do things though?
No, that's fine. Replacing the water after backwashing does dilute your FC though, but I was just worried the pump was off right after adding the bleach and it had settled in one area, bleaching out or damaging the liner possible side effects.... I'm sure all is fine the way you did it. 
schrody said:
Mom was just making sure you knew that when your adding stuff to the pool, the pump should always be running. It didn't make much differents but you could have backwash your filter first then added chlorine.
Mom has been on this forum long enough to not be surprized at what some people do; but I bet she shakes her head sometimes at some of these posts.
Hotrod30 said:Mom has been on this forum long enough to not be surprized at what some people do; but I bet she shakes her head sometimes at some of these posts.
Nah....
Well, the rod in the middle of the valve is broken and Leslie's said it's best to replace the whole thing. $134+tax but the guy did discount the 18.99 it is costing to boost it to 3-day delivery. He also said with some lubricant that I could put it back on to at least get the water circulating a few hours a day. I'm going to try that then surf the web to compare prices.
Sorry to hear this. I wouldn't wait to long to order. These west coast companys can get in into the delivery system today.
Ordered from poolcenter.com about an hour ago. $20 cheaper than Leslie's and their site says they can reach 70% of US in two days. Unfortunately UPS doesn't ship Saturday so I'm probably looking at Tuesday.
schrody said:
Come on schrody........ look at the bright side. If you worked on the valve Sat. and it was really shot. a new ordered one wouldn't hit the mail system until Monday or Tues.
Have a beer.
I lubed the old one up and put it back together. Nothing is leaking to waste! The downside is I'm sure there will be problems when i need to rotate the valve handle again. At least I have circulation for the meantime.
A beer sounds great. Happy hour in three hours! Again, thanks for the help and I'll continue posting with updates.
A beer sounds great. Happy hour in three hours! Again, thanks for the help and I'll continue posting with updates.
Test kit finally arrived!
FC: 7.5
CC: 2.5
CYA: 100
pH: 7.4
TA: 80
Did not run the water through coffee filter for CYA test though. I'm using poolcalculator(dot)com to get FC up to 25.
FC: 7.5
CC: 2.5
CYA: 100
pH: 7.4
TA: 80
Did not run the water through coffee filter for CYA test though. I'm using poolcalculator(dot)com to get FC up to 25.
With a CYA of 100, inorder to shock (I know, verb) the pool, you might have to go higher.
See the CYA/Chlorine chart.
category/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
That CC is mighty high.
I hope your valve arrives soon.
See the CYA/Chlorine chart.
category/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
That CC is mighty high.
I hope your valve arrives soon.
Hotrod30 said:
Quite true. But if the water is murky the CYA test is going to read higher than actual.
Also, adding chlorine up to 25 ppm should work when CYA is anywhere between 45 and 120.
JasonLion said:
I'm not going to get into that and coffee filters.
I wondered about the CYA/chlorine chart going up so high, but never asked.
No one shocks a pool in the spring like HOTROD30.
I raised just past 25ppm yesterday like mentioned. Then I tested 2 1/2 hours later it was at 17 so I adjusted again. Tested first thing this morning it was 10 ppm, so I've adjusted again. I'm now out of chemicals and must make a run for more.
Regarding the valve, I hope it arrives today. I got away with one backwash over the weekend and it was still working fine, but backwashed it this morning and now we're leaking a little to waste again. I have the water hose running slowly to the pool to make up for losing water.
Regarding the valve, I hope it arrives today. I got away with one backwash over the weekend and it was still working fine, but backwashed it this morning and now we're leaking a little to waste again. I have the water hose running slowly to the pool to make up for losing water.
It sounds like you had a significant FC loss overnight. That means you are making progress but still have a way to go yet on shocking.
I'm not sure that's been demonstrated..........at least to what degree.
Not to beat a dead horse, but I think that requires a caveat.
If you feel murky pool water is turbid enough to affect the outcome of the CYA test, you simply do the CYA test without adding reagent first to see if your pool water can obscure the dot.