Tips for using "Marlig's Fix-A-Leak"

[Bart]

I have a small leak in my hot tub (Hot Springs Spas, Grandee model) which I can't locate and was thinking of trying Marlig's Fix-a-Leak. The reviews on Amazon range from "amazing" to "horrible", with many people saying "make sure you follow the instructions"

The instructions say to remove the filters, pour it in, run the pump to let it circulate until the leak stops, then give it the proper cure time (24-48 hours). Then it says once you've determined the leak has stopped, drain the tub for 4-5 days for a proper cure. (I'll post the actual instructions at the bottom for reference).

Back to the Amazon reviews......most people said follow the directions, but a couple people said not to drain it at all after treatment, and one even said his leak was fixed until he drained it, then the leak came back!


My questions are:

1. Should I, or should I not use this?
2. Do I run the risk of hurting the spa, the heater, the pump, the filters, etc?
3. Can I put the filters back in after I treat it and run the pump for a few hours?
4. If the leak stops without draining it, should I just let it be and not drain it?
5. If I can't drain it for fear of freeze damage, should even bother trying it?

Any other tips, suggestions, or words of wisdom from someone who used this stuff would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Bart

PS - Here are the actual instructions from the "Fix-A-Leak" site:

DIRECTIONS
*Shake Well Before Using*

1. Bypass Filter before adding FIX-A-LEAK to water.

2. With pump running add FIX-A-LEAK slowly through skimmer or in front of any other suction intake.

3. FIX-A-LEAK is very heavy and will sink to the lowest point rather quickly. It must be stirred back into suspension every 4-6 hrs. during circulation of water.

4. Continue to recirculate water until the leak has stopped.

5. After the leak has stopped, give it the proper time to cure (24-48 hrs.). You may then return to normal filtration.

6. Treatment can be repeated if necessary.

*NOTE* Never allow cartridges or DE elements to dry before they are
cleaned. Rinse clean with water.

It is advisable, if your spa is a foam insulated type and has been leaking for a long period of time:

Once you determine the leak has stopped, drain your tub. Properly wipe down the spa with a wet cloth, nothing abrasive. Allow to dry for 4-5 days to all FIX A LEAK to properly cure.

 

[gtemkin]

Do the instructions give a recommended application temperature? Sounds like you're anticipating freezing temperatures during the cure period and that, right there, would give me pause. Not saying there's anything bad with the stuff but most any sealant or paint or coating will not cure properly at very low temps.

 

[g5marek]

I used it back in the summer to fix a leak in my in-ground pool plumbing and it worked really well. It held for about four months before I closed the pool for the winter.

It did not seem to have any imPact on my pool equipment.

I only used it because the leak was somewhere under ground beneth our patio and I did not want to break up the patio.

I would suggest to try to find the leak and fix it through more traditional ways unless the cost is incredibly prohibitive.

It's really hard to judge how long this will fix the leak for.

 

[JasonLion]

I think of this stuff as the option of last resort. You should try everything else you can think of first. The filter will be destroyed if you do not bypass or remove it. Also, it does not work on suction side leaks, only on pressure side leaks.

 

[Bart]

Do the instructions give a recommended application temperature? Sounds like you're anticipating freezing temperatures during the cure period and that, right there, would give me pause. Not saying there's anything bad with the stuff but most any sealant or paint or coating will not cure properly at very low temps.

I don't actually have the stuff yet, the directions I copied were from the Marlig website. I haven't come across any information about treatment temps (do I leave at 100 or turn it down to 70?) or cure temps?

I was (originally) more concerned with the water in the tub/pipes/heater/etc that didn't fully drain which would then freeze during the cure. I hadn't even thought about the fix-a-leak compound not curing at low temperatures. That's a great point.

Thanks!

 

[Bart]

I think of this stuff as the option of last resort. You should try everything else you can think of first. The filter will be destroyed if you do not bypass or remove it. Also, it does not work on suction side leaks, only on pressure side leaks.

Thanks Jason. A couple follow up questions:

1) The tub has 5 cylindrical filters that I can (and would) remove before treatment. Were you talking about those, or some other filter deep inside the tub somewhere?

2) I'm not sure where the leak is. Water seeps out from below the tub and I'm not even sure what side it's originating fromon or how high or low it is. I removed the "maintenance panel" and the heater/motor area was completely dry. I haven't removed any of the sides yet though. One of the screws is stripped (minor problem but certainly an annoyance) and (more importantly), I'm worried what I'll find. I've read a lot about "digging through foam insulation" and I'm picturing the walls of the tub completely full of material like that foam insulation that comes in a can that you spray into gaps and it expands.

Do you have any idea what I'll find when I take off the side panels? Will I have to start digging with some kind of tool, or will the insulation be separate from the walls of the tub and all the fittings for the jets?

Thanks again,
Bart

 

[Swampwoman]

Hi Bart. I too was concerned about draining due to the freeze, so I'm not much use to you. Mine stopped the leak at first, but didn't cure as I didn't complete the process. Re: the water...I just kept rinsing out my cartridge filter once I put it back in. It filtered out just fine.
Meaning if you want to try it wet, you can. But its much more likely to hold if you wait til spring and can properly cure the seal, using a blower or something to help it along if you can get into the shell or open it up. At least, that's my working theory.

I've resigned myself to weekly top ups through the winter, which is in my case viable as I have a nearby studio with a utility sink with hot water...I'd just been hoping to avoid the hassle

 

[Swampwoman]

Btw, in my little sport, the foam is on the shell under the skirt. When you remove the skirt and turn the jets on, you can usually see if an area is dripping. Its just better work in warmer weather is all.
Wherever my leak is, its not in "the usual" spot, meaning it must be along the fence where I can't access it...without removing the fence panels. Hence the stop leak attempt....

 

[JasonLion]

If you remove all of the filter cartridges you should be alright. The risk is that there is another filter that you don't know about, but that seems unlikely.