Replacing pool pump - any recommendations?

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I was looking at the Jandy 7305. My check valves have a 2 on them. I assume this would work with the couplers like you are saying. There would be a coupler to connect/go over the 2" pipe to the 2" Jandy connection, and on the other side of the Jandy the 2.5" would go over my existing 2" pipe, right?
 
A coupler would probably not fit over the old valve flange if that was what you were thinking. It looks like the solar return is no problem because there is so much pipe. The filter check looks like you might have to replace quite a bit of the plumbing. Note too that the new check valve does not need to go exactly in the same place. There seem to be room right before the solar valve.

As for the valves leaking water into the solar panels while they are off, I don't see that as a huge issue. Most valves start to leak at least a little after some time of operation.
 
Thanks Mark. How can I isolate it an determine if it is more so a bad check valve, a failing solar actuator, or a bad diverter valve which the solar actuator is on?

With regards to the filter check valve, it just seems unusual that that much air would be escaping back through the filter through the pump strainer basket after I shut off my system. But, how can I say it's unusual when I don't have a reference point to compare to since this is my first pool?

If the filter check valve would necessitate much more re-plumbing, is the Jandy check valve really worth it then compared to the other flapper type (not the generic hm store type) which may be able to be dropped in with less re-plumbing?
 
No air should get back into the filter from the solar side of the plumbing. You really don't want the filter to drain nor the pump to lose prime so I would go ahead and change both check valves. The solar valve is not so much of an issue because you can always change out the inside of the valve later.

http://www.pentairpool.com/partslists/valves-replacement-parts-pacfab-and-compool-valves-42.htm

If it was my pool, I wouldn't consider any other type of valve other than a Jandy. Valves are a pita to change later so I definitely think it is worth it.
 
mas985 said:
3000 RPM


SWG would be fine. However, an IG spa would be a problem with more than about 4 jets.


I doubt they would deny coverage although technically they can do what ever they want.


A B2981/B2981T is a bit more efficient 2 speed motor so I would go that route if you would rather with a 2 speed. It is a tough trade off. The VS will save you more over the life of the pump but would have a higher cost should the drive fail prematurely which does not happen too often. Also, replacing just the motor is far easier than replacing an entire pump. Just some things to thing about.

Also, if you are in the $0.30 price tier for PG&E, the MaxFlo would cost about $12/mo in energy while a two speed about $30/mo. So a definite savings.
Click to expand...

I finally had a chance and remembered to look up the B2981 2 speed motor. I wanted to learn what RPMs the 2 speeds operate at. I found that here: http://www.lockewell.com/pdf/aosmith/aosmith_b298.pdf. It shows 3450 & 1725 RPMs. I wanted to see if the operating RPMs could allow the solar to function on low speed. But, I am not sure it would work b/c in your later post Mark you stated:
"The EcoStar at full speed would produce about 105 GPM without solar and 73 GPM with solar. But because your panels are 288 sq-ft, you technically only need about 30 GPM for the panels. The reason the pressure rise is so high might be because you are forcing much more water through the panels than is necessary. With a VS, you will be able to set the flow rate so that there is only 30-40 GPM going through the panels. For the MaxFlo, this would be 1800-2100 RPM. But this might not be enough flow rate for priming so some trial and error might be necessary. "

So, with a VS, I would get the flexibility to adjust the speeds to the exact RPM that would permit true efficiency w/ the solar. The 2 speed would work at 3450 RPMs for the duration I need to operate the Polaris and want more quick filtering, but I am skeptical if at 1725 I could still have enough RPMs to pump up to the solar.

I never ran the breakeven point on the 2 speed, but you had stated approx. $30/mo. I realize that any VS pump would eventually pay for itself and come out ahead over the 2 speed.
 
The biggest problem with low speed is that it won't generate enough pressure to keep the vrv closed. Also flow rate is too low for priming.
 
Tx Mark.

Should I even bother considering another option could be replacing the motor with a 1 HP or larger dual speed? I'm not even sure my pump housing would fit a 1 HP or larger motor, but I just figured I'd ask. But, maybe this is going the wrong route and the VS route is the best. Just figured I'd rule out all options before going to what appears to be the best option, which is the EcoStar. It may be slightly overkill, but it only costs a little more, the breakeven point would just be another couple months as I stated, and it allows us future flexibility especially if we want to put in an automatic control system.
 
You could go with a larger two speed but sizing becomes very critical and very difficult. It would be much easier/safer to just go with a VS. You would operate as a single speed when solar is used but during the winter, you can drop the RPM some to benefit.
 
Just an FYI: I just installed the EcoTech EZ 1.5 HP VS for ~$350 and I LOVE it! Program it for 2 speeds M-F for whatever duration and power you want, also 2 different settings for Saturday/Sunday, and set a custom time/power where you can just manually push the button to run that setting whenever you want. It is VERY quiet! Love it! If you require automation (I don't beyond the built-in settings because my heat pump goes on and off automatically with it)... but if you do.. you can buy an add-on module to connect it to an automation system. Some are skeptical about the potential lifespan of the motor because there doesn't seem to be enough installations/history to satisfy them... so take that into consideration too. I personally am loving this super quiet and efficient VS pump. It connected perfectly to my Challenger HP wet end.
 
Tx for the info twesterd. Looked at it on Amazon. While no reviews, it reads wells and looks good. Going through the whole headache/trouble of upgrading my pump, I would want at least some track record of longevity of whatever is going to get put in.

It is an interesting thought if there is a VS motor replacement that would work for my current pump, but based on what Mark was stating above, "It would be much easier/safer to just go with a VS." If sizing a dual speed motor replacement would pose difficult, I assume the same would be said for a VS motor replacement.
 

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After getting the EcoTech EZ, it seems to be of nice quality... nothing looks cheap. I considered the Pentair SuperFlo VS that is selling for ~$575 but Pentair changed their warranty and only offer 60 days on self-installs. I also found plenty of complaints about the Pentair, so, from my view, its not risk free either. No pump is really risk free other than having a warranty. The EcoTech has two mounting options: the square mounting bracket and the round or 56J style mounting. If one of them is the correct mounting style for your pump's wet end, then the only possible problem I envision is the mounting assembly that the motor rests on. In my case, there was no issue. This link is to the manual and it has dimensions (side and front view) for both mounting styles. From that, it should be easy to determine if there is a potential mounting problem: http://www.usmotors.com/~/media/USMotors/Documents/TechDocs/Manuals/ECOTECH_EZ_Manual.ashx
 
Twesterd, thanks for the info, but I am really leaning towards the Hayward EcoStar SP3400VS b/c a big reason is that I could remove the control module and mount it on the wall, which makes it more accessibile for my wife and me. This is the only VS pump with that design.

Mark, hopefully you're still looking at this thread. To bring everyone up to speed, I returned the motor shaft seal and diffuser O-ring that I was going to replace. I have been pricing out the Hayword EcoStar, 2 Jandy 7305 check valves, & and a Siemens GFI. I had the pool tech out to visualize my set up one last time and verify the logistics of the pump install & check valves re-plumbing before I go ahead and purchase the equipment.

I wanted to recap some things from page 1 Mark about the need for a SVRS pump & doing away with the main drain. I was going to get the Hayward Ecostar 3400 non-SVRS model and keep my main drain as is (flat with the pool bottom) until the spring/summer when I could dive down there and change out the main drain cover to a domed anti-entrapment style. Would this work/be okay? Can I still have a non-SVRS pump and my flat main drain even if I was to never replace the main drain cover with an anti-entrapment style drain cover? I did not want to buy the SVRS model as I have read that it does not operate that well with solar. From what I have read, it shuts off frequently due to the pressure differences when the solar is activated or deactivated.

I just have these horrible images of people getting sucked down to my flat main drain all due to my new crazy strong pump (my mind has exaggerated it slightly).
 
With regards to SVRS and the MD. You can pretty much do what you want but the issue can be with any inspection that may be required. If this is a DIY project, there is no issue. However, if you are having a tech install the pump and it forces an inspection, they may call the MD and force you to fix it before it passes. You really need to check with the tech and city to find out your limitations.
 
Right on Mark, thanks. I'll check in w/ the City of Livermore contact I already have on file when I had called about draining some of the pool water last spring.
 
My pool tech got back to me and informed me that there is no code, rather it would apply to public/commercial or residential remodel. I called the City and am awaiting a call back.

I did ask the pool tech about any increased risk of harm due to a flat MD and stronger pool pump and he stated that there is an increased risk. Mark, could you substantiate that statement? While I am considering changing out the MD cover when the water warms, I was hoping to quantify my assumption that there would be an increased risk. But, if this flat MD is left in place, how much of an increased risk is there? If it is relevant, remember that I no longer have a diverter flap/valve on top of my suction inlet.
 
Remind me again, do you have two or one MDs? If two, there really is very little risk because each MD reduces the risk of entrapment for the other. For a single MD, there is a significant risk of entrapment but only if you get close enough to the MD. Also, you can mitigate any risk at all by not running the pump when swimming or at least run on lower speeds.

Also, I would wait to hear back from the city because not all service people keep up with the latest regulations even though they are suppose to.
 
Tx Mark.

I only have one MD. With my current pump operating, I have felt no suction at the MD. With a pump like the Hayward Ecostar, would there really be any more suction produced at the MD if the skimmer suction is still operating? I assume the suction would still be minimal unless the skimmer suction becomes blocked. Not that I would test by feeling the MD suction after the pump is replaced :)

Good point about lowering the speed or turning off the pump during swimming.

Previously, you had informed me the suction diverter valve is not necessary, as I don't have one. Does replacing my pump with the Ecostar change that?
 
bbrock said:
Previously, you had informed me the suction diverter valve is not necessary, as I don't have one. Does replacing my pump with the Ecostar change that?
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Can you show me which post that was? A suction diverter valve between suction ports is never a bad idea and I didn't mean to imply that. However, there are alternatives.

Also, another solution would be to simply turn off the MD. You don't really need it anyway.
 
This doesn't exactly talk about the diverter, but just showing you this if it relates to our talk now about the MD, diverter, etc. This was from post #15 in this thread.

mas985 said:
A main drain does help with equalization should a skimmer get clogged but that is only an issue on some pools. My skimmers fill up with debris but I have never had an issue with the pump running dry. If that is an issue with the pool, then you might want to keep the MD. However, I find that the MD is pretty useless if the water level gets too low because the skimmer floats do not full shut off in that case and end up leaking air. But new codes do require all MDs to have anti-entrapment covers. However, there is no way to enforce that unless there is an inspection planned although it is a good idea anyway.
Click to expand...

Sorry Mark, I misspoke. I thought I recall being informed that no diverter valve in my skimmer is okay, but I guess this was never specifically stated. I did find this other thread I made about this issue in which you had responded some (link to thread is below). Looks like it was more so that w/out a diverter valve, there would still be some suction at the MD. However, for what I have observed, it must be very minimal. Also, I have no way of turning off the suction at my MD (at least I am 99% certain that I can't). You talk about doing away with the MD altogether, but this seems like a risk d/t low water level. Since I have one skimmer/inlet, seems safer to keep the MD. But, again, I am not even sure it is working or connected to my suction side. If not, I have absolutely no idea why it was put in then.

Lastly, FWIW, I got rid of my weir door as well b/c it seems like that just kept randomly closing and not allowing full water flow into my skimmer/suction inlet. Despite the small benefit, if any, a weir door may provide w/ skimming, I would rather trade that vs. a burned out motor d/t reduced water flow. And, to recap, the only reason I got rid of my diverter is b/c it was missing the flapper. I have not replaced the diverter b/c I really didn't think it was needed.

Here is that link to that other thread:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/74858-Is-the-Main-Drain-supposed-to-be-an-intake
 
Actually my mistake. I thought you meant a three way valve at the pad. The diverter in the skimmer is optional. I think it is better to have more flow in the skimmer than the MD. So yes that helps the entrapment issue if you leave that without a diverter.

As for the weir door, that is very important for skimming. It increases the surface velocity of the water which makes for better skimming.
 

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