Water level when closing

Mar 19, 2014
54
Oxford, MS
I'm closing my in ground pool for the first time. I am worried about draining the pool low enough so that the returns aren't underwater. I have been told I have high ground water, and worry about floating the liner draining the pool that low. Below the skimmer, no problem. Can I still blow out the return lines and keep them empty? I don't have any pictures now but I'll get some. I have two jets in my setps that mix air/water, any special considerations with that? will it likely be a standard 1.5" threaded plug or something else?

Growing up in Dallas TX I don't remember my dad doing anything special in the winter, we definitely never had a cover. It gets colder here in north MS, but not much.
 
I'm not fully aware of your local norms for winter temperatures, but looking at historical information the average low for your location is only below freezing for December through maybe February. Would you even need to fully close? As long as you ran your pump when the temperatures dropped below/near freezing you wouldn't risk freezing lines. I would still cover the pool like you were closing to reduce chlorine loss to sunlight. I may be assuming too much, perhaps there is a member in your area that can give more insight.

You could easily leave the returns underwater if you do fully close the pool. You may get a little wet but you should cap off the returns with a plug while the blower/compressor is still blowing out the lines and they will remain sealed and free of water as long as your plugs form a good seal. Either a 1.5" threaded screw in style or expandable plug will work. As far as I know, no special concerns with aerated returns other than making sure to blow out the blower lines too (if you have a blower).
 
I can't give advise on whether to close or not, but I can tell you how my PB instructed me to blow out my return lines in case you decide to go that route. They advised to only drain below the skimmer then plug all the jets except the one furthest from the pump. Start blowing air from the equipment pad until the single open jet bubbles for about 45 seconds, then plug the jet with the air still blowing. Immediately remove the plug from the next furthest jet & let it bubble for 45 seconds. Continue this until you finish with the jet that is closest to to your equipment (my pool has 5 returns). Once the last jet has bubbled for 45 seconds you plug it and shut down the air.
 
I'm not fully aware of your local norms for winter temperatures, but looking at historical information the average low for your location is only below freezing for December through maybe February. Would you even need to fully close? As long as you ran your pump when the temperatures dropped below/near freezing you wouldn't risk freezing lines. I would still cover the pool like you were closing to reduce chlorine loss to sunlight. I may be assuming too much, perhaps there is a member in your area that can give more insight.

You could easily leave the returns underwater if you do fully close the pool. You may get a little wet but you should cap off the returns with a plug while the blower/compressor is still blowing out the lines and they will remain sealed and free of water as long as your plugs form a good seal. Either a 1.5" threaded screw in style or expandable plug will work. As far as I know, no special concerns with aerated returns other than making sure to blow out the blower lines too (if you have a blower).

This is fairly accurate. We get a cold snap once in a while... last year we got down into the single digits. That's not typical, last year was the coldest in a decade or two, but if running the pump will keep the water from freezing that may just be my best bet. I have a *ton* of leaves though, and have been debating buying a cover. Talked to a coworker after I posted this thread who said he doesn't cover or close, but he also had some above the water pipes freeze back by his pool pad because 'one still had water because i had used my hot tub'.

Do the water bag covers work alright or should I pony up for one of the safety covers with the springs? Or should I go 'topless' this winter and see how bad it is? I could put the money that would've gone into a cover/plugs/sump pump into a z-wave intermatic contactor (my honeywell alarm system can control it) instead of using the "bubba'd up" electrical that is totally not up to code and only turns on/off one of the 220 legs, double tapped switch lugs instead of a proper pigtail, and neutral-to-ground 110 leg that obviously trips the 220 GFCI breaker I put in.
 
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