New here and also a new pool

[supercrewzin01]

We just finished our pool on July 4th, and about 2 weeks ago or so had the salt system activated. I have noticed recently that the plaster is starting to grow some algae. The salt rating is 3000 ppm right now, and is generating at around 65%. How can I get rid of this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Casey]

I am not "totally" sure about SWG's but I believe you can add liquid chlorine bleach to raise the chlorine level up to shock levels to kill algae and brush the pool.

I am not sure if the SWG needs turned down to do this or not but someone will be around shortly to help! If you could, post a full set of test results so we can offer you the best advice and go to User Control Panel and click on signature and add all your pool specs, gallonage and pump filter... whatever you have.

Welcome to TFP!

 

[No P in my ool]

Welcome to to TFP! I would suggest reading "Pool School " and posting some water test results and then we will be better able to help you.

 

[Rockcrawler]

Even know you have a SWG you still need to check your numbers daily FC/PH. What level is your CYA (stabilizer)? it should be at 80.

You need to test your water NOW for FC and CYA (stabilizer) and then shock your pool using bleach in accordance with Chem Geeks CYA chart

What kind of SWG do you have.
How many Gallons


We really need some more information to help you
specificallly Test numbers

If you shock you pool with bleach, I usually shut down my SWG

 

[JasonLion]

Get a full set of water test results and shock the pool!

 

[supercrewzin01]

Here are my test results:

FC = 2.5
CC = 2.5
PH = 7.6
TA = 300
Salt Rating = 3000 PPM
Producing Salt @ 63%


I am updating my signature now.

What is on my plaster is below:

 

[No P in my ool]

You will need to shock your pool. Without a stabilizer reading(aka"CYA") I can't give you a level. You could raise your chlorine level to say 20ppm and hold it there until it holds overnight, but without a cya reading it would just be a guess.

 

[supercrewzin01]

It is supposed to rain the rest of the week, won't shocking the pool be better when it stops raining?

How do you do a CYA reading, the test kit that I have only does the TA,CC,FC, and PH?

 

[supercrewzin01]

Just got my water tested professionally:

FC - 3.0 ppm
TC - 3.0 ppm
CC - 0.0 ppm
pH - 8.0
Hardness - 105 ppm
Alkalinity - 165 ppm
Cyanuric Acid - 40 ppm


The guy told me to switch it to the Superchlorinate and add a gallon of Muratic Acid.

 

[Rockcrawler]

Supercrew, I suggest you go ahead a get a good test kit like the [Edit:Correction on seller of TF100 Test Kit:Sold on TFP by duraleigh (Dave) of TFTestkits:Butterfly] TF 100 or at least the K 2005 from taylor, you need a test kit so you can test your water FC/CC/PH daily.

Then read the pool school sticky it tells you everything you need to know

category/pool-school/

Then by going to Jasons calculator you'll know what to add

http://www.poolcalculator.com/

Heres a start

You need to bring your CYA up to 60-80ppm add 80oz of stabilizer (Jasons cal)

bring your TA down between 70-100 read the sticky on lowering you TA

Add 97oz of Muratic acid to lower your PH to 7.0 then start areating (i.e.waterfall.)to bring the PH back up, when it reachs 7.6 lower the PH again down to 7.0 keep doing this until the TA is between 70-100

if you have algae then shock your pool using bleach at least up to 20

This should get you started

Use Jasons calculator

 

[supercrewzin01]

According to Pool School, I need to get some Muratic Acid, Calcium Hardener, and stabilizer.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Ideally with your SWG you do want your CYA around 70 or 80. And yes I agree, get some Muratic Acid to lower the PH and begin to lower the TA.

Also, I recommend you shock your pool with liquid chlorine, not your SWG, as that can shorten the life of the SWG Cell. Manually add liquid chlorine to raise your FC to shock level (use the Pool Calculator to figure out how much to add) and turn off the SWG while you shock. Use a good test kit to measure your FC levels.

You want the K-2006 by Taylor NOT the K-2005. The K-2006 includes the FAS-DPD test which is essential for pool maintenance, the 2005 doesn't have it. But IMHO you get more for your money from the TF-100, it has more reagents and a great price, plus excellent customer service from Dave. Check out the article in pool school that compares the two kits.

 

[supercrewzin01]

So whenever it stops raining here in Houston, I just need to pour some Clorox bleach into the pool and turn just the SWG off, or turn everything off?

 

[Butterfly]

So whenever it stops raining here in Houston, I just need to pour some Clorox bleach into the pool and turn just the SWG off, or turn everything off?

Turn SWG off. Keep pump/filter ON. Add the amount of bleach (liquid chlorine) calculated to bring your FC to shock level based on your CYA.

Also, I'd adjust the pH down to 7.5 or 7.6 first.

 

[Rockcrawler]

IMO When its raining is a perfect time to adjust TA, the rain helps aerates and brings the PH up after you bring it down to 7.0

If it was my pool and I "thought" I had algae, I would be out there in a snow storm adding bleach

 

[chem geek]

Supercrew, I suggest you go ahead a get a good test kit like the [Edit: Seller of TF100 is duraleigh (Dave) of TFTestKits:Butterfly] TF 100 or at least the K 2005 from taylor, you need a test kit so you can test your water FC/CC/PH daily.

I believe Rockcrawler meant to say "or at least the K-2006 from Taylor" since it is similar to the TF100, unless he was trying to save you cost. You can get the Taylor K-2006 at a good online price here and can get the TF100 from tftestkits.com here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so is comparably priced "per test". I have both test kits and you won't go wrong either way.

 

[newnick]

Brush the pool also.

 

[Rockcrawler]

I stand corrected, thanx Chem