Help, need to repair single union

swchoi

0
Aug 1, 2014
8
Quincy, MA
Hi,

I bought a house with a pool last year. There is problem with the union ball valve to the skimmer.
the handle is missing and the square thing that is used to turn the ball valve by the handle is also broken(worn, see attached picture).
the part # from the picture is Hayward SP722-E.

Is this fixable without cutting the pipe? if so, how and where to get the parts. I tried searching and reading for a long time, but I couldn't find/figure it out.

TIA
 

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:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

I do not thing that valve is repairable. This is why we rarely recommend the use of PVC ball valves. They eventually stiffen and break. Much more recommended to use the pool valves (although yours were Hayward) like the Jandy Neverlube or equivalent from Pentair or Hayward.

You could use a single 3-way valve, since you are going to have to do a good bit of plumbing anyway.
 
I agree. My pool has pvc ball valves also, but they have a union on each side so the valve could be replaced if needed. With yours, everything from the pump to the two valves would have to be replaced since you don't have any extra space to make a cut and repair.
 
I'm in a similar situation right now as my main drain cheap-o valve was not holding air lock when I closed. I cut it out and plugged the line with an expandable plug. By the time I open in the spring, I'll have to replace. My set up is VERY similar to yours: A union already there between the pump and T-fitting and no room on either side. My setup has a 4-way split rather than your 3 way T (3 suction lines go to pump). I'm planning on replacing it all from the pump all the way to each suction line with 3 new valves. I thought about having the skimmers on a common valve but would like to be able to isolate one or the other for heavy suction vacuuming if I want to.

Currently the sticker shock of 3 Jandy Neverlube valves is tough to swallow so I'm also trying to figure out how to do it just right this time around.
 
Only other issue is that you are going to have to buy a new Pentair union for the pump connection as well. Actually, maybe not, you may be able to use a fitting one size larger to fit on the outside of the union and then use a reducer to drop back down to your normal pipe size.

Also back the pump up if you can to leave some pipe exposed for the future if needed.
 
You can get inside pipe extenders which work really well in situations like this. You should be able to find them online and they will not reduce your flow that much.
 

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I guess I tend to see the inside fittings as band-aids (maybe unwarranted). They will certainly have to add head loss. But, they would make the repair quicker which is maybe why it is the ITI guys that tend to suggest them :mrgreen:
 
If you open both union ball valves and the union at the pump, you can remove the whole section and have access to the union ball valve internal parts. You can buy the parts as needed or just buy the whole new valve and use it for parts. The stem is removable and easy to replace.
 
If you open both union ball valves and the union at the pump, you can remove the whole section and have access to the union ball valve internal parts. You can buy the parts as needed or just buy the whole new valve and use it for parts. The stem is removable and easy to replace.
:hammer: and we all over look the obvious ... good catch James
 
Upon closer inspection, the hole where the stem goes through the valve looks like it might be damaged. It might not be worthwhile replacing the stem if the hole is too damaged. It should be considered before deciding what to do.
 

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