Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Liquidator question

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    san antonio texas
    Posts
    5

    Liquidator question

    I'm new to pool ownership and have had a green pool several times due to (I think) inconsistent chlorine levels. I purchased the liquidator with the 3/8 upgrade and installed it two weeks ago. After two days I went to check the chlorine level in the tank and noticed that the lines running out of the unit were all white as was the flow meter. I opened the lid to see this film of bubbles approx 2 inches thick. I called Hasa to ask about this and they said that I had a broken lateral in my DE filter, and that what I was seeing was DE powder. I was told by the previous owner that he had put DE in the filter, but once I got it opened, that was not the case. It is a sand filter, and he had used something I'm not familiar with (lagomite?) instead of sand. After cleaning and inspecting all the laterals I found that all the laterals are intact and working properly. I filled it with the proper amount of sand per the mfg specifications and went back to the liquidator. I replaced the lines before the flow meter, but couldn't even see the ball in the meter. I took it apart and found that the residue is actually hard. I tried using a pipe cleaner to get it off but it didn't work. I used a piece of wire and that broke it apart easily, but after just a couple of days all the lines are white and the flow meter is covered again. Whatever it is is actually making the ball get stuck, and preventing it from flowing. When everything is clean I can get 4 on the meter, but right now I cant even see the ball because there is so much buildup. What is my problem? Is it a chemical imbalance?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SouthWest Alabama
    Posts
    22,347

    Re: Liquidator question

    We've had reports of 'White Stuff', but that looks kinda like calcium scaling. The foaming is what bothers me.

    Let's start by getting a full set of test results and how you go them. Especially calcium.

    Try to dilute some muriatic acid and see what it does if you drop it on the buildup?
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    san antonio texas
    Posts
    5

    Re: Liquidator question

    I'll run all the tests this weekend and post asap. I live in san antonio texas, and we have extremely hard water. I received my TF-T100 test kit this week, so Ill run everything this weekend get back later.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,769

    Re: Liquidator question

    I had the Liquidator for more than a year and had white stuff but never saw anything like that.

    White stuff is a salt, you can see the crystals. It forms on the bottom of the tank and in the tubing. There may be some scale in it too. But I have never had or seen anything close to that. Muriatic acid (or even vinegar) cleans it up -- but its still in the water.

    I think High calcium levels don't help the white stuff problem. Mine was 440 (and still is).
    22k gallon IG pebblefina, Jandy 1.5 HP VS, Jandy CV Cartridge filter, Fafco solar panels, Polaris 360 supply side cleaner, waterfall

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    san antonio texas
    Posts
    5

    Re: Liquidator question

    TA-140
    Cal-250
    Cya-50
    FC-4
    Ph-7.8

    I cleaned the flow meter, flow valve, and the check valve behind the flow meter with muriatic acid. When I pulled the tube off the check valve, it was almost completely blocked with that stuff, and the ball was stuck in the flow meter.

    Derrick

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Liquidator question

    Well, your saturation index is around +0.4 (you can use PoolMath to calculate it) so there's no surprise that you are getting calcium carbonate flakes clogging the unit. The pH is higher in The Liquidator due to the chlorine being added to the water and it's at higher pH (the pH won't be as high in the pool when diluted and it will come back down when the chlorine is used/consumed). Your pH and TA are too high and they are related because a high TA will cause the pH to rise. You should significantly lower your TA level to no higher than 80 ppm. You would then keep your pH below 7.7 and that would have your saturation index be close to 0. If you still have flaking, then you could lower the TA somewhat more, but you could use 50 ppm Borates in the pool as another option since that's an additional pH buffer that keeps the pH from rising as much in The Liquidator (and in SWG cells).

    See the Pool School article on how to Lower Total Alkalinity.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    san antonio texas
    Posts
    5

    Re: Liquidator question

    After reading more on the liquidator, and the TA/Ph recommended, I added acid to the pool on sunday, and as of last night, the TA is down to 110, and the Ph is 6.8. I will aerate to bring the ph back up and then try to lower again to get the TA down further. When inspecting the flow meter last night, it appeared to be full of the scale again, but when I turned the pump on, it all blew out. The flow seemed to be good, so Im guessing that it passed through the check valve... I will wait a few days to see about getting the ph up to 7.6 or so and then try adding acid to again bring the ph down and hopefully get the TA below 100ppm. Let me know what you think of my plan.

    - - - Updated - - -

    forgot to add that the tank seemed to be a little clearer than before. There are fewer bubbles and the film seems to be thinner, but not gone.

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    san antonio texas
    Posts
    5

    Re: Liquidator question

    I brought the ph up over a few days. I took the float valves, flow meter, flow valve and check valves off the unit and cleaned them with acid. I put everything back together and added acid to bring the ph down again. Tank is clear and everything seems to be working properly. Measurements today:
    Fc-10 (need to adjust flow now that it is operating properly)
    Ph-7.0
    Ta-90
    Cal-350

    Thanks for the help.

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Liquidator question

    Sounds like you are on the right track.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •