New build, north DFW again!

Day 5, inspection passed. Gunite scheduled first thing in the morning.

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Question for the plumbers. Do I need a special check valve installed before the rainbow 320 inline chlorinator the PB installed in my system? The installation sheet seemed to indicate that it was required with a heater and/or ics.
 

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Question... My electrical panel was full prior to pool equipment. It might have been possible to collapse some small circuits to make room for the 220 and 110 circuits. A sub panel came up, and I said to do it that way. Electrician charged me an extra $350. Is this normal? I would think the PB would know this was a possibility, especially since they never looked in the panel prior to today. I'm not very happy about that, especially since they also knocked out my internet. I can't upload any of pictures of the finished waterline tile.
 
Question... My electrical panel was full prior to pool equipment. It might have been possible to collapse some small circuits to make room for the 220 and 110 circuits. A sub panel came up, and I said to do it that way. Electrician charged me an extra $350. Is this normal? I would think the PB would know this was a possibility, especially since they never looked in the panel prior to today. I'm not very happy about that, especially since they also knocked out my internet. I can't upload any of pictures of the finished waterline tile.

Rule of thumb: Pool electricians generally like to count on about 50 amps. They don't like the liability of "collapsing" circuits to make room for the big pool stuff. From a safety standpoint (and probably a code standpoint) you're much better off with a sub panel. Shame on your PB for not making himself, and by extension you, aware that you were going to need an additional panel before you signed the contract. At my last house, we discussed electric needs before we executed the contract. At my current place, I intentionally added the "Pool Prep Kit" option that basically brings 60 amp service to the pool side of my house and gives me the correct electricals in my panel. Turns out, this was a good deal for me since the small upgrade price got me a short electrical run for the PB and gave me the extra panel inside. PB estimates that I saved about $1000 by going with this option. If anyone else is thinking about building a new house and putting in a pool, I suggest you include pool electricals in your house plans.
 
I'd say that sounds about right on the electric box. Usually if electric is covered its only standard stuff - mine covers addition of a branch circuit with a run of up to 75' only in the contract. If you need a sub panel usually you have to carry that cost, and I'd say at $350 that was pretty cheap. I paid $200 for converting my hot water heater circuit to an outdoor outlet to supply a new on demand gas water heater. All he did was run the same wire to the exterior side of the same wall to a new electrical box and new outlet and cover and change the breaker to a lower amp rating. The sheet rock was already open from the plumbing part and his access was easy. So, consider yourself lucky. You got off cheap.
 

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