Question on how to set/plumb this type of water feature?

[Corleone]

I'm doing a owner build, and want to try and set these precast scuppers myself.

I have 1 1/2" stubbed behind my wall, and I need to have these plumbed and set before I can backfill behind the raised rear bond beam, so I figured I'd do it myself if I could.

The best I can figure is:

cut the rebar

center and level the scuppers

plumb a 90 pointed up in the bottom rear of the hole. The hole is 2" larger than the scupper, and the bottom of the scupper is 2" thick, so that gives me 4", which is enough room to conceal a 1.5" 90 degree fitting.

fill around and behind with cement.

What obvious detail am I leaving out?

Is that how I should plumb it?

Is there a particular kind of cement mix/grout I should use/need to use? A minimum thickness? Any advice for someone with plumbing experience, but a newbie at the rest?

Should I just bite the bullet and hire a tile guy to set these for me, or is this a task that the average guy can handle?

Here's some images of what I've got going.

 

[Beadedbiker]

I'm going to preface this with I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about. I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn in the last couple of years.

My tile guys used regular quickcrete mortar to bring the gunite edge up just a inch or so to perfect level, and set the coping stone. So I would say that same stuff would probably serve to set the scuppers in place. The front is not going to get grouted until the tiling process - usually the wall will be waterproofed (using plaster) then tiled over that and finally grouted up to and around the scuppers. I'm guessing since the back is getting buried in backfill, you just fill any gaps with the mortar. I don't know if you have to do any other kind of prep, like waterproofing before you backfill as we don't have anything similar to that going on.

 

[Corleone]

Thank you beadedbiker, I sort of figured I could use regular quikrete to set em in place and then leave the rest up to the tile and plaster guys.

Appreciate the input.

 

[gwegan]

I'm a wimp when it comes to this I would hire the tile guys.

I do have a thought for plumbing however. You probably want it plumbed like a waterfall == pipe comes up vertical then two 90s bring it facing down onto the scuppers. This prevents water from shooting out and it flows over the scuppers no mater the force or volume. As to exactly how you do that and attach them I have no idea.

 

[RangerBob]

I will just mention that, though our scuppers are completely different than what you have, our PB had them set with hydraulic cement. One of our scuppers had a little tension on it (from the pipe) when it was set and it cured at a pretty good angle and had to be removed and reset.

Bob

 

[Glock]

I don't have any idea what you are talking about. I don't even have scuppers. I have no clue how to mount them either. I did pass a Holiday Inn yesterday but I don't think that matters. However, I do like your pool and have mad respect for you doing an OB pool. Hope that helps.

 

[jjwalker]

I would plumb it out...glue my 90 and then cut the pipe to fit the scupper and just not make that glue joint, making it possible to pull the scupper in and out of your rough in hole. when your tile and stone are laid, pull the scupper out, glue joint, insert.

is this possible? am I following what your trying to do?

 

[Corleone]

Some great suggestions, thanks guys.

What do you think of this idea I just had: I'm thinking about stubbing the pipe straight through so that it's pointed out and cut at the rear of the scupper. I could then conceal the pipe by carefully using epoxy to cement some river rock or a different material but leaving enough gap to allow the proper flow while concealing the pipe from view.

Or instead of rock, I could fabricate a middle barrier on the scupper (with an inch gap across the top)which would then allow for it to fill and empty over the divide and out the front of the scupper.

 

[Beadedbiker]

I'd say it depends on what your wall finish will be as to whether that would just be more of a distraction. I'm wondering if the gaps to set the scuppers are taller than the scupper, then you would bring the pipe in at the top. Like gwegan said, you but a 90 on it so it is flowing straight down onto the backside of the scupper. Make sure you come in from the side and then down - so you don't have any pipe showing behind the scupper itself. If you are doing a wall of say ledger panels, you just cover the top of the gap with the panel - or make a form to protect the scupper top and mortar the gap shut before tiling. That way you never see the pipe.

 

[RangerBob]

With the two disclaimers that 1) No recent Holiday Inn visits and 2) As Bob said, our scuppers are different - there is a photo on our build on page 2 of how they ran the plumbing, which you can see from the back, then several photos after that how they left the holes wider than the actual scupper and then finally on page 5 how they filled stone in around the holes. Then you can decide if you want to put an additional angle in it for the type of scupper you have. - Karen

 

[Corleone]

With the two disclaimers that 1) No recent Holiday Inn visits and 2) As Bob said, our scuppers are different - there is a photo on our build on page 2 of how they ran the plumbing, which you can see from the back, then several photos after that how they left the holes wider than the actual scupper and then finally on page 5 how they filled stone in around the holes. Then you can decide if you want to put an additional angle in it for the type of scupper you have. - Karen

I just want to say, your build is amazing, absolutely beautiful design.