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Thread: Re-level Kayak Pool

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    Re-level Kayak Pool

    Hello,

    I moved into a house last year with a 16'x32' Kayak rectangular pool. The pool was originally built on a raised base to level it properly. One side of the pool sits on the natural ground while the other side of the base is probably a foot above the natural ground level. The pool has settled over time and has areas with as much of a 4.5" difference. Most areas appear to be 2-3" of difference from the highest point. I am planning to drain, re-level and install a new liner in the spring before I open it. I am looking for tips or recommendations so that I can start planning. I am particularly concerned about trying to re-level it with that much difference. Would the preferred method be to raise the low areas and block or should I dig the high areas in? If I do raise and block, what can I do to help prevent those areas from having the floor wash out after installing the new liner? I can attach pictures if needed.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Re-level Kayak Pool

    Welcome to TFP!!!

    We say that anything out of 1" of level is not recommended, so it is good that you are planning on fixing this.

    Generally, you always want to dig down the high side so that the entire pool is sitting on undisturbed ground. If you try to build up an area and do not do it properly, it will settle as you have seen.
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    Re: Re-level Kayak Pool

    Thanks for the response. So if I were to dig it out and lower it as you suggest, would I be causing any problems by burying the walls that much? I believe the Kayak walls are made of wood so should I be concerned if they are down in the dirt and could possibly start to rot.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Re-level Kayak Pool

    I have seem some members who do not backfill the dirt onto the pool, they add a little retaining wall with a few feet between it and the pool. So it is not really "buried".

    If you build-up, you will need to have some form of barrier to hold the fill in place and you need to be sure that is it properly compacted. Usually you want to use a fill called crusher run or something like that which compacts nicely every few inches.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Re-level Kayak Pool

    When I did mine I dug about a foot bigger on the high side. Then I took another 2 or 3 feet at about a 30 degree angle. So you still have a foot to stand on if you are on the out side of the pool brushing or getting leaves out. The reason I put the angle was so I could put stone landscaping around it. I also feared a "cliff" might be dangerous.
    1) The size of your pool in gallons 4440.
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    4) Intex 15 by 48 metal frame.
    5) If you know, tell us the size pump 2500gph and the size (flow rate) of your filter.
    Southeastern, Pennsylvania.

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    Casey's Avatar
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    Re: Re-level Kayak Pool

    Buy crush n run. Its also called 2A modified. They build roads out of it. Rent a plate compactor and go in 3" lifts and compact it. You can build it up to level and reset the pool at its current with no problems. That's your only option at building up.
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    Re: Re-level Kayak Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by Casey View Post
    Buy crush n run. Its also called 2A modified. They build roads out of it. Rent a plate compactor and go in 3" lifts and compact it. You can build it up to level and reset the pool at its current with no problems. That's your only option at building up.

    You are only going to find 2A mod in quarries in and around PA. That is a PA DOT specification. The original poster is from Ohio. 2A is also an exact specification, and tested by the State, so it can end up costing more than plain old run of the mill (crusher) DGA.

    The stuff goes by a variety of names - DGA (dense graded aggregate), QP (Quarry process) or Crusher Run (the total run of what comes out of a crusher). I see Crush n' Run or Crush & Run on these forums quite a bit - but I have never heard it at a quarry or on a construction site.


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