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Thread: CH BuildUP

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    CH BuildUP

    Plaster is six months old, aggregate mini pebble and the CH has just been inching up, today is 425. My fill water is 300. I'm a little confused on what my goal should be when using PoolMath. I initially put a goal of 260, which then the calculator said I should drain 40% of the pool.

    If the fill water is 300, I guess 260 as the goal in PoolMath is unrealistic.

    Should I put 300 as the goal? If my fill water is 300, seems like this is something I'll be doing a lot? Draining a couple of times a year? I'm an owner for 20 years and while the white plaster lasted 20 years, I did not take care of it like I should have so this is new to me.

    In case it matters:

    FC 5.0
    CC 0
    Akl 70
    PH 8.2
    CYA 40
    CH 425



    Thanks for the help!
    14K IG Aggregate Mini Pebble, 1 HP Hayward Single Speed Pump 120 GPM, 175 Sqft Cartridge Filter
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    Build Date 2/1994; Remodel Date 4/2014; Original Owner, North Texas

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    Kiss4aFrog's Avatar
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    For plaster your goal should be 250 to 350 per pool math. Down at the bottom of the boxes is "Suggested Goal Levels" and to the right you need to select "Pool Surface" then check to see what the recommended CH is for a plaster pool

    I'm just not sure on a newer surface if it should be different (higher) than that. Did the people who did the surface give you any instructions on care for it ?? I would think being a bit high wouldn't be a problem as long as you don't start to see any scale forming and you keep everything else in it's proper range.

    You should drop that pH down to something more comfortable for your eyes and skin !!
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    I think the "care" is monitoring the chemistry and adjusting accordingly. Stonescapes will not warrant with CH higher than 400; that's why I'm draining it. Yes, PH needs to be adjusted, but no sense adjust right now if I'm draining 25% or more of water out of it.

    I redid my fill water and it's 125. I'm sure the CH is being driven up due to the plaster curing which will take as long as one year.
    14K IG Aggregate Mini Pebble, 1 HP Hayward Single Speed Pump 120 GPM, 175 Sqft Cartridge Filter
    In-Line Chlorinator, 360 Polaris Black Max, Sheer Descent Water Feature. TF-100 Test Kit
    Build Date 2/1994; Remodel Date 4/2014; Original Owner, North Texas

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    Re: CH BuildUP

    Your pH is high. If let it stay high you're going to have scaling. Use PoolMath to do your calculations. Input your test results and watch you CSI. With high CH levels that is a very important number, if it's too high you will have scale on the pool, to low and it will damage the pool surface and tile grout.

    i have very high CH in my fill water and have successfully maintained my CSI balance with CH well over 1,000. But the higher it gets the more of a balancing act it becomes. One slip and you have scale.

    If you balance the water carefully you won't have scale. I had a lot of problems before I found the forum. Lowered my TA to help with pH rise. Now I use the Pool Calculator to keep a very close eye on my CSI.


    We have very hard water and extreme evaporation rates. The calcium level in my pool has in the past been well over 1,000, yet I have no scale at all. That is too high and required a complete drain and refill, but it shows that with diligence you can manage very high CH levels with no scale. But with only 125 in your fill water it's easier to replace the water than walk a tightrope.
    chiefwej
    Tucson, AZ
    16x36 rectangular (19k) Pebble Tec play pool/spa, Pentair Intelliflo VS 011018, Super II 2hp (spa), Aqua Rite T-15 SWG, Pro Grid 60 DE, Hayward H400 & Heliocol Solar heating, A&A infloor system, fill water w/high CH and TA, 50 ppm borates,TF-100 test kit

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    425 CH is kid stuff. I don't think mine has ever been that low in four years, even after massive water exchanges.

    Just plug 425 in as your goal. No draining, no additions. If CSI starts to climb towards .5, play with the targets until it gets down closer to zero. Typically, that just means lowering TA or not letting pH go all the way up to 7.8 before you add acid.

    I can attest that it's not hard to maintain the chemistry up to around 800. After 1000, you have very little wiggle room and partial drains are called for. I divert the raingutter downspout to my pool when (IF) we get rain, and that helps reduce the CH.
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    Quote Originally Posted by doloskeeter View Post
    I think the "care" is monitoring the chemistry and adjusting accordingly. Stonescapes will not warrant with CH higher than 400; that's why I'm draining it. Yes, PH needs to be adjusted, but no sense adjust right now if I'm draining 25% or more of water out of it.

    I redid my fill water and it's 125. I'm sure the CH is being driven up due to the plaster curing which will take as long as one year.
    My fill water is around the same CH as yours and I can't keep CH below around 450. If you really want to keep CH below 400 you'll be replacing water fairly often. I got tired of doing that during the first year of my pool.

    Like Richard, I've learned to live with higher CH and I just watch my CSI and never let it get above around .2 before I take it back to around -.2.
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    My CH was at 750 last summer but through rainwater, it's down to around 450. It's not a huge deal, but I keep my ph at 7.2 to keep my calcium saturation index (CSI) in check to avoid getting calcium scale on my tile. You will see by plugging in numbers to the pool calc that the easies way to keep your csi in balance by keeping your pH low. Again, I aim for 7.2 and I add acid when my oh climbs to 7.5. I'd recommend that before draining especially if you have have fill water with 300 CH.
    17,000 inground gunite pool finished June 2013. Pentair variable speed something or another. Polaris cleaner, inline rainbow chlorinator. Using trichlor until CYA reaches 50-60.

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    Thumbs up High CH but Listening to Everybody

    Ok, here it goes....

    FC 5.0
    CC 0.0
    TC 5.0
    AK 70
    PH 7.2 (It will rise.......)
    CH 425
    CYA 50
    CSI -.3

    So the Stonescapes warranty is a -3.- to +3.0 CSI......

    Am I okay? A little torqued about stressing about this pool all day..........
    14K IG Aggregate Mini Pebble, 1 HP Hayward Single Speed Pump 120 GPM, 175 Sqft Cartridge Filter
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    Build Date 2/1994; Remodel Date 4/2014; Original Owner, North Texas

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    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: High CH but Listening to Everybody

    Play with poolmath to see the effects of all the parameters, but as soon as the pH comes up, the CSI will too.
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    If your fill water is actually at 125 then the easiest solution would be a partial drain and refill. That would bring your CH down to a more comfortable level.

    It's possible the CH of your fill water changes depending upon the source your city is using that day. You might want to check it every day over a week or two to see if it remains constant at 125 or 300 ppm.
    Cheers, Peter
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    Re: CH BuildUP

    Quote Originally Posted by doloskeeter View Post
    Plaster is six months old, aggregate mini pebble and the CH has just been inching up, today is 425. My fill water is 300. I'm a little confused on what my goal should be when using PoolMath. I initially put a goal of 260, which then the calculator said I should drain 40% of the pool.

    If the fill water is 300, I guess 260 as the goal in PoolMath is unrealistic.

    Should I put 300 as the goal? If my fill water is 300, seems like this is something I'll be doing a lot? Draining a couple of times a year? I'm an owner for 20 years and while the white plaster lasted 20 years, I did not take care of it like I should have so this is new to me.

    In case it matters:

    FC 5.0
    CC 0
    Akl 70
    PH 8.2
    CYA 40
    CH 425



    Thanks for the help!
    Just skimming, it seems we have not quite answered OP's questions concisely.

    1. Yes, 260 will never be possible and will confuse "poolmath" I would suggest setting 300 ppm as your "now" column and around 350-375 as your target. all will be well and you will probably finding yourself having to drain a little water from time to time to stay at that 375 "ideal" point.

    2. As others have pointed out, get your pH down into the mid 7's and KEEP IT THERE. Anything above 7.8 is troublesome in your case.....I would shoot for 7.4 - 7.5

    How does your pool water look?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: CH BuildUP

    The pool water is crystal clear.

    In order to KEEP IT THERE, my assumption is that I may be putting in a little bit of muratic acid every day. I can get it down to the mid range, then it will creep up to 7.8, maybe hold there a couple of days, then up to 8.2.
    14K IG Aggregate Mini Pebble, 1 HP Hayward Single Speed Pump 120 GPM, 175 Sqft Cartridge Filter
    In-Line Chlorinator, 360 Polaris Black Max, Sheer Descent Water Feature. TF-100 Test Kit
    Build Date 2/1994; Remodel Date 4/2014; Original Owner, North Texas

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    Re: CH BuildUP

    The frequency of acid addition varies a lot from pool to pool. Generally, anytime your pool water goes to pH 8.0 or more, you are getting close to a scaling condition that you want to avoid.

    So, yes, keep it in the seven's regardless of the frequency which you need to dose.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  14. Back To Top    #14

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    Re: CH BuildUP

    So let me ask, if one's PH is 7.8 one evening, the following evening it is 8.2 (or higher).....does scaling occur in that 24 hour period? Just curious
    14K IG Aggregate Mini Pebble, 1 HP Hayward Single Speed Pump 120 GPM, 175 Sqft Cartridge Filter
    In-Line Chlorinator, 360 Polaris Black Max, Sheer Descent Water Feature. TF-100 Test Kit
    Build Date 2/1994; Remodel Date 4/2014; Original Owner, North Texas

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