I need some help.....please

[bponb]

Here are my findings with the TF-100 kit.

13,500 gallon pool (or there abouts)
no spa
plaster pool
DE filter system with inline chlorinator (using pucks for chlorine)

FC-4.5
CC-0 TC = 4.5
275 CH
110-120 TA
PH 8.2
3-6 CL/BR
110 CYA


I am currently draining 70% of my pool

I have been fighting algae for almost a month with no difference.

My question is do I need to do away with the chlorine type pucks and go strictly to liquid type bleach?

I am really searching for an asnswer for my problem without having to visit a pool store for help.


Thanks in advance.

 

[boston62]

You need to stop using the pucks, they adding to your high cya. Bring down that pH to 7.6.. What's your water look like?

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[tim5055]

Yup, you got it right - get rid of the pucks. To keep algae at bay with the CYA of 110 your minimum FC should be around 9 with a target in the 14 range. My CYA was twice yours when I started.

Once you are done with the drain/fill get the pH down to 7.2 and read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.

Welcome to TFP

 

[bponb]

Pool water was clear but just dealing with algae and can't seem to get rid of it. Thanks for the replies, any advice will be gladly accepted.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

When you get your pool water clean and clear (listening to the folks here on TFP and following the TFPC Method guarantees that happening ), save up your money and either purchase either a salt-water chlorine generator OR a liquid chlorine pump (look up Stenner pump or Liquidator). Dumping bleach from a jug everyday works but it gets old real fast and, as life will always throw you curve balls, it's really nice to have an automation system that does the work for you

 

[SwimmingpoolAZ]

We deal with high CYA levels here in AZ all the time. You're best to drain most of the water out and get it back under control that way but remember, the higher the pH, the less effective your Chlorine will be. At 8.0 only something like 24% of your chlorine has killing power and with CYA being more than double it's like you have 0 free Chlorine but at 7.4, you're double that. Don't be afraid to take your pH down to 7.2 temporarily to gain more killing power out of your free Chlorine as well.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Welcome to the forum

Please add your pools info to your signature as outlined here - - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started

"My question is do I need to do away with the chlorine type pucks and go strictly to liquid type bleach?" Yes. For daily maintenance use bleach for chlorine and save the tablets for those times you can't be there to take care of the pool daily, like vacation or such or in the early part of the year after opening if you drain and cover for winter and need a little CYA.

[/I]"I am really searching for an answer for my problem without having to visit a pool store for help.[/I] You came to the right place, we don't use pool stores.

 

[svenpup]

...remember, the higher the pH, the less effective your Chlorine will be. At 8.0 only something like 24% of your chlorine has killing power...

This effect is negligible when there is CYA in the water. This is another one of those pieces of "common knowledge" that has long been untrue but lingers as it continues to be passed on by misinformed pool stores and owners.

 

[timerguy]

Don't just throw the pucks away! Keep them for using when you go on vacation, or to raise your cya a little when necessary.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

Don't just throw the pucks away! Keep them for using when you go on vacation, or to raise your cya a little when necessary.

+1

I kept my two buckets of 3" pucks and have used them occasionally when I need to raise my CYA level. Each puck is 8oz of 99% trichlor which you can use PoolMath to tell you how much FC/CYA/pH/salt that changes for your pool.

As long as your CYA is kept within recommended levels, the pucks can be used as-needed for small adjustments.


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[bponb]

O.K. I have drained my pool and did my tests. Chlorine is on the high side which also causes my PH to be slightly high. CYA is 40-50.

I am still getting algae forming. What next?????

I am using liquid bleach for the pool. All other tests results are in spec.

 

[JVTrain]

You have drained and refilled but you still need to SLAM Process the pool. Visible algae means you need to complete the SLAM process.

 

[bponb]

please explain exactly what I need to do. I am new to this slamming thing.

 

[bponb]

Here are my up to the minute numbers

CL/BR 6-10
PH 7.92
FC 6.5
CC .5
CH 275
TA 210
CYA 45

 

[northrn]

bponb,

SLAM is a process, not a one time thing as most people think of when they hear "shock." SLAM brings chlorine levels to the appropriate level relevant to your CYA and holds that level there until three things happen.

1. The water is crystal clear. Not clear water with algae. Not cloudy but no visible algae. Clear. Like a bottle of drinking water clear.

2. CC is less than 0.5

3. Over night chlorine loss is < 1 ppm.

Here's a nice article to help ya out: :lookhere: How To SLAM

So first I would stop with the pucks. You aren't doing yourself any favors, ya know? Then I would get the pH down a little, figure out what my SLAM level should be, and load up on unscented/unflavored bleach. Test and dose every hour in the beginning. This may be a quick process for you or it may last days. Be patient. TFP methods work when followed correctly.

 

[kcindc]

I see that you are using the TF-100

You don't need to do the OTO chlorine test (the one next to the PH test). The DPD-FAS powder based test is the only one you need to be using right now.

How did you get a PH result of 7.92? Is it a typo?

The PH test is invalid when your FC is 10+, so don't bother testing PH when your FC is that high. Also, if your FC is less than 10, test your PH and adjust your PH down to 7.2. A PH of 7.2 is the most effective when dealing with algae.

Don't bother with the rest of the tests while you are SLAMing... unless you replace a lot of water.

 

[bponb]

I have access to a PH meter test at work. That is how I got my PH reading. I now understand while I am slamming that I don't need to
do that test as the results will be off. Currently still slamming, got the FC up to around 19 and checked again this morning and it is now reading about
14. Added more bleach to get it back up. Am I doing this correctly? With my CYA at around 45. Do I keep circulating the pool until FC is under control and then
drop back to my normal pool circulating time? Water at this moment is crystal clear but I still can stir up a green cloud when cleaning.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tim5055]

Yes, keep doing what you are doing.

Test
Adjust FC
Brush
Repeat

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)(ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.

Your water is clear, so only two more things to pass

 

[kcindc]

The more often you test FC and add bleach to bring back up to shock level, the faster the process. Keep SLAMing until the algae is completely gone... stirring up green clouds means that the water isn't clear.

Follow the SLAM, brush daily, run the pump 24/7 until your pass the 3 criteria mentioned in northrn's post. Once you pass all 3 criteria, you do the OCLT, if you pass the OCLT, you can go back to your regular pump schedule and let FC drift down to normal levels.

I'm sure that you are seeing your pressure rise on the DE filter, make sure that backwash when the pressure is 20-25% higher than your clean pressure.

 

[bponb]

Thanks to everyone, I think I am getting there.