k2006 test kit

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jquinney

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May 19, 2014
25
Liberty hill, TX
My wife took my water to the local pool store they came back with a weird FC and CC numbers and said my borate level was low 7 ppm and my hard water was high 400 and my copper levels were low everything else was pretty close. I filled up the pool with well water witch is a very hard water.

FC They had 3.84 ppm i had 5.0
CC they had 3.99 ppm i had .05

I have seen many post in the forum about this problem with pool stores. So just to make sure if my CC is too high will it or will it not bleach the test out giving me a low number or should I just start trusting my testing. And should I stress about the copper and hard water.

Thanks,
 
jquinney said:
My wife took my water to the local pool store they came back with a weird FC and CC numbers and said my borate level was low 7 ppm and my hard water was high 400 and my copper levels were low everything else was pretty close. I filled up the pool with well water witch is a very hard water.

FC They had 3.84 ppm i had 5.0
CC they had 3.99 ppm i had .05

I have seen many post in the forum about this problem with pool stores. So just to make sure if my CC is too high will it or will it not bleach the test out giving me a low number or should I just start trusting my testing. And should I stress about the copper and hard water.

Thanks,
Click to expand...
Are you sure the 3.99 is CC and not TC? Pool stores like to give a Total Chlorine number.

In any case, ignore them. Trust your testing
 
Post up a full set of YOUR test results if you would like overall comments.

There is nothing you can do about high CH besides replacing water and 400 is not that high. Ideally you want your copper level to be 0.
 


- - - Updated - - -

my numbers are in the red the .05 should be in combined chlorine CYA is 35

Im going to use TFP but I want the pool to balance out from the new build first before I switch. And before I use a new system I want to be sure I know how to test correctly before I mess with a new system, does that make sense.
 
What does your CYA test say? And I do not know what "I did the smaller test because i new the chlorine was high " means.

Honestly you would have less confusion if you just took control yourself. Trying to match yours and their test results is an effort in futility and will just make you crazy.
 
Your numbers and theirs are quite close.

What is it that youu are actually concerned with?

All you need to do is up the CYA a bit and keep the FC close to where it is. Other than that, nothing really screams out as horrible.

Note: This is assuming that you did your testing per the instructions and are reading the results correctly.
 

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jquinney said:
I did the smaller test because i new the chlorine was high
Click to expand...
If this is in response to my earlier question, I was simply suggesting that you may have the decimal point in the wrong place. If you used 10 ml sample size, and added one drop to make the pink go away on CC test, then your level would be .5 rather than .05.

Overall, as another poster pointed out, your results don't look alarming, and they also don't look tremendously different from the pool store numbers. So, in response to your question in the original post, no reason to think that the test was bleaching out because of overly high chlorine levels or anything like that. You'll note that the pool store numbers show total chlorine at 3.99 and free chlorine at 3.84, which means a combined chlorine (CC) number of .15 -- also quite low, like yours.

Relax, play with the K-2006 some more, and have confidence in your own test results.

As far as the CYA test (the hardest-to-read of the bunch), the K-2006 has a pretty limited amount of that reagent (about 6 tests worth). If you want to practice and refine your ability to read the test, just pour the sample back out of the tube with the black dot into the original squirt bottle; then drip back into the black-dot tube and see if you can tell when the dot disappears (with sun behind your back, and the tube about at waist level). Repeat as often as you like. That way you can get more confidence with that particular test without using up all your reagents.
 
I can't tell from my Tapatalk app, but a VERY important question not asked is this - what is your method of chlorination?

Most new builds will often have the PB using solid chlorine tablets. If that is the case, you need to get away from those as soon as you feel comfortable enough with the TFPC Method.

In order to practice TFPC with the least amount of hauling on your part would be to get some form of automated chlorine system - SWCG or Stenner pump. You can do jug dumping of bleach for a while, but it gets old fast and life has a way of interfering with daily pool care. A little automation goes a long way.


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Hahaha...and no phosphate test!!! Doesn't that pool store know all the money it's letting walk right out the door by not testing for those pesky phosphates!?!?!?

Quick, someone call a PhosFree salesman and send him over there lickity-split!!


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SunnyOptimism said:
Hahaha...and no phosphate test!!! Doesn't that pool store know all the money it's letting walk right out the door by not testing for those pesky phosphates!?!?!?

Quick, someone call a PhosFree salesman and send him over there lickity-split!!


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Click to expand...

Forget making money on phosphates, pool store is making plenty of money telling people they can run their CYA up to 150 ppm max and still be in a recommended level. That's because while they would need a FC level (since it's off the FC/CYA chart I'm guessing) around 15-20ppm to keep the algae away at that CYA level, pool store FC recommended level would of course never need to be anything over 4 ppm so pool store will be making a ton of money on shock powders and algaecides when the pool is constantly green.
 
jv92red said:
Forget making money on phosphates, pool store is making plenty of money telling people they can run their CYA up to 150 ppm max and still be in a recommended level. That's because while they would need a FC level (since it's off the FC/CYA chart I'm guessing) around 15-20ppm to keep the algae away at that CYA level, pool store FC recommended level would of course never need to be anything over 4 ppm so pool store will be making a ton of money on shock powders and algaecides when the pool is constantly green.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the willful ignorance is practically criminal....


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