Supplementing SWG...questions

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bmoreswim said:
My Hayward cell looked clean this summer but production had decreased. I cleaned it with a MA solution and it was back mostly to like new. Might not hurt to clean it again.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that feedback. I will go ahead and do that...a lot cheaper than buying a new cell.

I still haven't checked the cell usage, I will.

Here are my numbers as of today:

FC 6
TC 6
PH 7.8
TA 80
CH 490 to 510 (ouch) this test is finicky...even added the reagent prior to stabilize the endpoint as suggested in my kit....
CYA 45






Heather
28,000 gallon, gunite, IntelliChlor IC40 SWG, Pentair filter, attached spa
 
Your CYA is still a bit low for an SWG pool. Needs to be up around 70ppm.

If you have any 3" trichlor pucks sitting around, you can use them to add stabilizer. Typical 3" trichlor pucks weigh ~ 8oz each, so you can plug that into PoolMath with your details to see how it raises your CYA. Three pucks for my pool yields an increase in CYA of ~8ppm




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SunnyOptimism said:
Your CYA is still a bit low for an SWG pool. Needs to be up around 70ppm.

If you have any 3" trichlor pucks sitting around, you can use them to add stabilizer. Typical 3" trichlor pucks weigh ~ 8oz each, so you can plug that into PoolMath with your details to see how it raises your CYA. Three pucks for my pool yields an increase in CYA of ~8ppm




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Click to expand...


I don't want to rely on the CYA I quoted until I get my new results with fresh reagents when I order my speedstir and FAS-DPD this week. But I do have some pucks, and I will use PoolMath to calculate theta projected increase. Thanks for the tip!

What about my CH? Sky high. Haven't had time to research that this week yet.


Heather
28,000 gallon, gunite, IntelliChlor IC40 SWG, Pentair filter, attached spa
 
For us westerners, not really. My water this season had been 450ppm. I have some calcium scaling on the spillway tiles, but I'll take care of that later in the season.

Not much you can do about CH except test your fill water and see where it is at for CH. Some folks try to hook up water softeners to their fill lines, but that's really low on the priority list for me.

I've even heard of sparkly clear pools all the way up to 1200ppm CH so it's really just a matter of how well balanced you keep the water. As long as you keep the CSI balanced or slightly negative, you'll be ok.


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My CH runs 450 on a regular basis. I can never get the test "right" either. Maybe I am blue/purple colorblind?? CYA at 80 and I keep my FC in the 9-10 range. I run my pump 24/7 from open in May or June to close in September. And run my SWG at 70-80% depending on temp and use. I also have an auto cover that keeps my loss to a minimum.
You know this already, but you have to confirm a cya number. With my numbers I have to clean my cell every few weeks or u start to get a low flow error on my heater. Good thing is my cell is a compupool cell so I can physically see thru the case and see the buildup of calcium.


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From the Taylor website regarding interferences with the calcium hardness test -

Calcium, Magnesium, Total Hardness

Metal ions may cause interference; to prevent, add titrant containing EDTA to sample before buffer and indicator, then test as normal making sure to count drops of titrant added initially in total required to reach endpoint. If interference still occurs, dilute sample with DI water as necessary and retest.
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The EDTA titrant is the R-0012 solution, the last one you add drop wise and count to get your CH number. You can add one drop of it BEFORE adding the first calcium buffer solution (R-0010) to help sequester any metal ion that may be interfering with your test.

Also, your rather high FC could be causing chemical changes to the indicator solution which would affect color changes and end-point color. Diluting your sample with distilled water would likely help. It must be distilled, not tap or bottled drinking water. You can find bottled distilled water in supermarket for cleaning out coffee pots.


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So...still haven't ordered my new test kit, but my FC/TC is at least 10...just a DPD.

Here is my question (remember I supplemented with bleach last week as I had feared my SWG cell had kicked the reliable bucket)....

If you add bleach, assuming my SWG wasn't working, how often (In days on average) would I expect to need to add bleach? It has been 6 days and my chlorine level has increased.

This obviously makes me think my SWG is working...

Maybe I had a chlorine lock (I have heard people don't think those exist), but maybe I killed whatever it was that preventing my chlorine from rising.

Your thoughts, opinions, and overall thrashings of my thoughts and opinions are welcomed and encouraged.


Heather
28,000 gallon, gunite, IntelliChlor IC40 SWG, Pentair filter, attached spa
 
So your saying you haven't added any bleach for six days and your FC is rising. I'd say your SWG is functioning then.
If you manual dose with just bleach no SWG you have to add bleach everyday.
If I were you I'd order the FAS/DPD reagents and some fresh CYA reagent. ?
 
Yes, I haven't added any more bleach since last Sunday. I know I need to order the new supplies...putting it off, it's in my "cart" though.

Now I need to lower my run time on the SWG.

ARG...I have fought low chlorine all summer!

Thanks for the feedback!


Heather
28,000 gallon, gunite, IntelliChlor IC40 SWG, Pentair filter, attached spa
 
The pump runtime and the SWG output percentage is a trail and thing to you get it right. Getting that set and getting your CYA up to 70 will be your goals to set.
There are some good articles in pool school on SWG's. Take sometime and review the articles. ?
 

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Today I was doing a walk around my pool, and I noticed poofy areas of white fluff in my hot tub. I would guess around 50%of my water returns through that tub to spill into the main body of the pool. I have NEVER seen anything like this in 3 full seasons we have he the pool. Remember my chlorine from SWG was struggling until I added liquid bleach 1.5 weeks ago and now my salt level is still over 10 just with the SWG. DO YOU THINK THIS IS DEAD ALGAE? It looked a little bit like salt (haven't added that in 2 months), but when I touched it, it felt like spongy matter. Weird!


Heather
28,000 gallon, gunite, IntelliChlor IC40 SWG, Pentair filter, attached spa
 
I had a similar issue last year. No matter what I did to my pool I could not keep my FC above 4. Even running 100% 24/7.

Do you have a sand filter? If so eh. Was the last time it was deep cleaned? I replaced the 3 year old sand in mine and my Numbers have been much better ever since. And some white bloom looking things were in my old sand. Don't know what it is, and it could have just been channeling, but it worked for me.

If you don't have sand then disregard.


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Hemess said:
I still haven't checked the cell usage, I will.
Click to expand...

Heather, just another possible simple test for the cell is using a Pentair IntelliWand, software is a free download from Pentair the the IntelliWand can be purchased from Amazon. It also gives you a running history (database) each time you use it and makes cell diagnosis very easy.
 
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