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Thread: what do I correct first? and so on...

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    Join Date
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    what do I correct first? and so on...

    Cliff notes:
    New pool owner.
    Bought a foreclosure with an existing pool.
    Found this site and bought a Tf-100 test kit.

    First test results:
    FC 2
    CC 0
    CH 1000? Not sure on that one but it took 40 drops to turn colors completely.
    TA 140
    CYA 100
    Ph 8.2

    I need to run all these tests again to confirm, didn't have the time after the first run.

    What do I tackle first in this debacle?
    Is the pool safe to be in in its current state?
    Thanks for helping a new guy out!
    IG, 10 yrs old, ~11,000 gallons, plaster, 1hp single speed pump, clean and clear 150 cartridge filter, waterfall, booster pump.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: what do I correct first? and so on...

    Welcome to TFP!

    Well the CYA and CH are too high, and to fix those, you have to replace water. So I would say that is the first step.

    Leaving the pH that high with high CH is a sure way to get calcium scaling as well.

    And the FC being so low with the high CYA will likely result in algae too.
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    Re: what do I correct first? and so on...

    Thanks for the fast reply!

    I'm guessing that the with the hard water I have, I'd have to replace most if not all of the water.
    IG, 10 yrs old, ~11,000 gallons, plaster, 1hp single speed pump, clean and clear 150 cartridge filter, waterfall, booster pump.

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    Charlie_R's Avatar
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    Re: what do I correct first? and so on...

    Quick note: Test your fill water before you start to drain. Being in Phoenix, your fill water may also be high in CH. No need to test for CYA, as tap water doesn't have any. That way you will have a better understanding of what your final CH level is likely to be.

    Use PoolMath to see how much you will need to replace to get your CYA down, and go from there. As the CYA test only shows up to 100, yours is likely higher than that.
    15'x48" 4500 gallon Intex pool, buried 1.5 ft. Pac-Fab Dynamo 3/4 hp pump. Hayward S180T sand filter, bought used. Taylor K-2006 test kit. Rocket mass heater based wood fired pool heater.

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    Re: what do I correct first? and so on...

    Charlie - that's exactly what I was thinking. I'm testing it when I get home tomorrow. Thanks for the link.
    IG, 10 yrs old, ~11,000 gallons, plaster, 1hp single speed pump, clean and clear 150 cartridge filter, waterfall, booster pump.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: what do I correct first? and so on...

    As Charlie said 100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.

    Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

    ....1...................1................................2
    ....1...................2................................3
    ....1...................4................................5

    But, the more you dilute the more variance you get in the result.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    what do I correct first? and so on...

    I'm guessing the previous owner / pool service guy was a dichlor/cal-hypo shock user. That would explain the high CH and CYA. It's pretty common out here.

    When you do your CH tests, use the diluted sample procedure (10mL sample = 25ppm / drop) as it will save you in reagents.

    Not sure how much money you're willing to spend but draining and refilling is usually the cheapest option. If you drain, be sure to drain and fill when it's cooler out as draining water below the tile line on a plaster or PebbleTek pool can be really bad for the surface (scaling and cracking). If you can control the main drains separate from the skimmer then you can drain using the MDs and fill with several hoses at the same time. If you do not have separate MD control, then I'd recommend renting a commercial grade submersible pump to get the "old" water from the bottom. Basically you want to avoid mixing fresh fill water with bad drain water.



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    what do I correct first? and so on...

    And one other drain/refill point -

    Call up your local water utility and tell them you are refilling a pool. Some municipalities will credit you the sewerage charge as you are filling with water but not discharging into the sewer. I did not know that when I filled my pool and it would have saved me over $100 in sewer fees if I had called Tucson Water.



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    Re: what do I correct first? and so on...

    Annnnnd, In case no one explicitly said so -

    DO NOT SWIM IN THAT POOL WATER!!!!

    The FC is way too low for whatever your CYA level is at.



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