Which Filter Should I Buy?-Switch to salt water from sand filter/chlorine?

[Auntie Algae]

My pool is 30,000 gallons, 30 years old, in ground, gunnite surface (pocked), with sand filter and automatic chlorine tower

The pool filter must be replaced, as it is leaking at just about every entry point around the PVC pipe insertions, and replacement parts are no longer available for this model filter.

What would be the best filter to buy? What can I expect to spend? Algae is a continuing problem in my pool. Should I stay with a sand filter? Should I switch over to salt water? Any advantage? All advice will be much appreciated. :nemo:

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

Algae is a chemical issue, not a filter issue. Maintaining appropriate chlorine and CYA levels will result in an algae-free pool even with no filter at all.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Any of the major brands would be fine for a filter. You have to decide what kind of filter you want to use: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/160-pool-filter-comparison

If you are going to stick with sand, then with your location and pool size, you should get one up around 5.6 sqft which is 32" diameter.

Algae is not a filter problem, it is a chemistry problem. You are not maintaining the FC high enough for your CYA level. See the FC/CYA Chart.

Do you have flagstone around your pool like most people in TX? If so, then a SWG may not be recommended.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

 

[Auntie Algae]

Thank you so much for your response and welcome!

I have a limestone retaining wall by the pool and brick and concrete with aggregate finish around pool. Pool is surrounded by tall old live oak trees which hang over about half the pool.
I have used massive amounts of 3" tablet chlorine and black algae chemicals for the algae, and manage to keep the water clear. Reading this site today, I realized I probably have an over-abundance of CYA because of the chlorine tablet use.

Once I install a new filter, should I drain the old water and start fresh? I know the black algae roots will still be embedded in the old gunnite, but don't know if I am able to budget in resurfacing at this time.

Thanks, again, so much.

 

[jblizzle]

We never make recommendations blindly. You need to test your water with one of the Recommended Test Kits to know what adjustments need to be made.

 

[RobbieH]

You asked about switching to salt. So you know, the filter has nothing to do with saltwater pools. You can have a saltwater pool with any kind of filter. But, if you are doing all the plumbing for the new filter, it might be a good time to plumb in your saltwater chlorine generator at the same time though.

To get that black algae, you'll have to come up to shock level, and you will have to brush the algae HARD. I recommend a wire brush. Black algae loves pitted plaster.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

I have all Pentair equipment and use a DE filter with a salt water chlorine generator. You can have flagstone/limestone/travertine etc with salt water pool as I have flagstone coping (unsealed) and it's fine. The only extra work I've noticed with salt is that you have to clean your decking surfaces a bit more with the garden hose or else you can get white salt stains and crusty deposits. All very manageable if your a bit obsessive with cleanliness.

Your black algae problem is definitely treatable with the TFP method but you ABSOLUTELY need a recommended test kit to get your chemistry right. No one here can help you without accurate test results.

Once you get your black algae killed we can talk about adding borates to your water to help keep the algae at bay.

You also might consider getting in a landscaper to help thin out those trees. That much leaf-litter over your pool is going to make keeping it clean very difficult. I imagine it is already a constant headache.


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