K2006 results and pump question.

bdex

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LifeTime Supporter
Jul 3, 2014
389
Peoria, IL
As you can see by my signature we have an 18,000 gallon IG SWG pool. Vinyl liner.
My readings stay pretty steady at the following numbers.
FC 10.2
CC .2
PH 7.5
TA 140
CH 450
CYA 80
Phosphates 0
Salt 3400

Here are my questions on the results.

1.) My TA at 140, should I try to bring that number down? If so, how? PoolMath does not change when I input 140 as an actual with 80 as a goal??
2.) My CH at 450, drain and refill? I have a hard time believing that a SWG pool with salt in the water still has CH issues, but it seems it does. When I had the plumber doing the gas line in the house I had him plumb a spiggot to the back of the house by the pool that is fed by the water softener. Would that be the one to refill with?


Now, as far as the pump goes. I have a Pentair SD60 filter. And my pump that came with it in the "package" is 120 volt, Pentair Dynamo 2, 2hp single speed pump. After reading on the forum with all of the people with 1hp and 1.5hp pumps wondering if this pump is oversized? All my plumbing, one skimmer, 3 returns, is all 1.5" pipe.
I just run the pump 24/7 from May when I open to September when I close. Was told by several sources (a shop that rebuilds electric motors included) that these are meant to be continuous duty pumps, not start/stop pumps??? But mainly run due to the fact that I did not automate anything and with a heater and SWG don't you have to insure that there is water flowing if the SWG or heater are running??

I was planning on replacing the cheap ball valves with the Jandy no lubes in the spring and can re-do any other plumbing issues then.

Thanks for the help
Brandon
pool equipment.jpg
 
To lower TA you reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH. You may have to do that several times. Aerating is an inexpensive way to increase pH. You may want to use the 10ml sample for your FC test to save reagent. It's accurate enough.
 
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