New homeowner with 30000 SWG pool. Algae bloom 1 week later. Trying to SLAM.

[GeneS]

Well I am the proud owner of a new home with a 30000 gal SWG pool. This is my first pool which I have only had for a week now and while I am trying to learn everything to keep up with it it developed an algae outbreak 3 days ago. Prior to the outbreak the FC levels were 4.0, ph 7.9, ALK 80ppm. The whole pool went from crystal clear to a jade green color in a few days. I am in SC and it have been in the 90s here with the water temp 85. I began shocking 2 days ago. first day was 3 LBS of cal hypo, 24 hrs later the FC PPM was only 3.0. The pool store suggested to double shock and superchlorante on the salt cell which I did last night and continue every 24 hrs until it breaks. I used my test kit which only reads up to 5 on CL but it seems to read up at least that high.Visually there is no change so I plan on adding another 6 lbs tonight. In addition the past 2 days there seems to be little clumps of green bubbles in the pool which reminds me of pond scum (jeez hope it isnt that bad) they went away last night but are back today. I am also continually scrubbing the sides and running my Polaris 9350 robot which is picking up what seems to be algae sludge (looks like green pea baby food ). I do keep adding Muranic acid to keep the ph under control as I do this. Anyway just want to be sure I am on the right track and not wasting time I really want to get in some swim time after buying this house and pool before the season ends. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
Gene

 

[n240sxguy]

Since no-one has responded to this yet, I will tell you what I have gleaned from this site in the last few months since I joined. You need to buy a good test kit, read through pool school multiple times, and go buy as much bleach as you can haul home.

 

[aussieta]

stop adding the acid as ph will read false high when chlorine level is above 10ppm
you haven't listed a hardness level so i would stop using cal/hypo as you may be creating more of a problem
at this stage you need to invest in a fas/dpd test kit, tf100 or taylor 2006 seem to be the most popular
these kits are more accurate and can test FC above 10
can you list the make model of your SWG and note any lights or panel readouts
it is unusual for a swg pool to go green
with the high temps you may find there is no cya in your pool and your chlorine is being burnt off by the sun.
cya acts like sunscreen for your chlorine
again a quality test kit can measure cya accurately
if you have any complete pool shop results please list them as it may help

 

[GeneS]

Thanks for the advise. I plan on looking for the test kit today when I bring a sample to be tested at the pool store. Last night I did add 6 gallons of 8.75 bleach. This morning a vacumed and scrubed the sides agian. No real change so far. I plan to get the test done an add whats needed to bring the cl level back up to 20ppm? of should I go higher? Thanks for your advice.

I have a Hayward swim pure salt cell (power, super chlorinate, and generating are the only lit lights)

prior to shock
FC=3
TAC =3
alk = 100
cya = 30
ph 7.6
phos = 0
iron = 0
copper=0
salt 3100

 

[n240sxguy]

Make sure you get one of the recommended test kits. I'd say there's not much chance that your pool store is gonna have what you need. Look in pool school for the recommended test kits and the chart that shows what your FC needs to be for your CYA level. Pool math will also tell you how much bleach to add.


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[zea3]

Use PoolMath to determine your shock level for the slam. Don't raise the FC more than slightly above shock level, excess FC won't speed things up, and since FC loss is exponential not linear, you will waste some chlorine in the process.

You need to make sure the test kit you buy has the FAS/DPD test. That is the only test that will allow you to test levels FC greater than 10ppm and there is no substitute.

 

[one_knight4u]

Hello Gene, and welcome to TFP.

Lets get started on getting you the proud owner of a Trouble Free Pool.

One of the things that is practiced here and is the backbone of TFP, is the fact that we want you to learn how to take care of your pool, and understand water chemistry. Relax, we aren't going to require you to be a chemist (although if you are that would be a cool thing). In an essence we want to unshackle you from the pool store. It will be cheaper and alot less frustrating. We do not want you to simply throw chemical "X" and liquid "Y" into the water to make a mess of your pool and to save on the costs of pool ownership. We want you to know the how's and why's of your pool. No one will take care of your things better than you. You work hard for your money and we want you to get the most out of it.

To start learning, you need to get a test kit. HERE are some of the recommended test kits as a comparison. The TF-100 test kit with the XL option is the best kit for the money. It will give you the most tests per dollar spent. Test kits can be ordered HERE or Google "FAS/DPD test kit and order your own from where you choose. The sooner you get it, the quicker your pool will be crystal clear.

Now that we have the first step out of the way, lets get on to the second step. Adding all of your pool information and equipment into your signature. Reason we do this is so at a glance anyone can tell what kind of equipment you have without having to reference it elsewhere. It also makes it easier on you in the fact that you only have to enter it once and its posted every time you post. How to do that is explained HERE.

Ok, now on to your water. With what has been added since your lest test, its almost impossible to tell where your FC and pH are at. We need to know what your water chemistry is right now, and to do that we need a test done. Take a sample to your local pool store ⁽¹⁾ and have them test it. The FC and pH test they can get pretty close, but the CYA test is pretty much a ball park guess for them.

When you get the tests, come back and post them here so we can get you to swimming in your new pool.
And for the last thing to get you started, Here are a few articles to read to get you familiar with your pools chemistry which i highly recommend you read while waiting to get your own test kit.

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

Pool Math This Calculator will become your best friend.

Water Balance for SWG's



⁽¹⁾ I'll hand out pool noodles to all the senior members for my beating because i recommend him to go to a pool store for water testing or face the super soaker firing squad.

 

[GeneS]

Thanks and will do all you suggested. Tonight I will post my test results and update my pool info. Just ordered the Taylor TF 100 (about a week till delivery) and I will have to put up with the "store" tests till then.

 

[GeneS]

So after adding 6 jugs of Walmart bleach 8.25% last night and scrubbing/ vacuuming multiple times today, (all advice I received while browsing this forum) here is a great sign less than 24 hours later. I am so happy and learned a lot from you all and really want to see this outbreak through.

yesterday = today =

Went to the "pool store" to get my levels tested. She read off the results
FC - 6
CC - 6
pH - 8.2
TA - 100
CH - 190
CYA - 30

So I promptly asked, "why only 6 ppm? I was expecting at least above 10". She replied, " my test kit only goes to 5 but it looked a little pinker". I chucked then thanked her for the results. (now I understand the value of doing my own testing!!)

Since I did not get much help from the pool store on the test what I am asking is that would it help or hurt to add another 640 oz oz bleach again tonight? ,less ,none at all or just super-chlorinate? without knowing my true FC is there a "rule of thumb" to use? I will continue to brush, vacuum, backwash ect.... Water is a bluish milky white color and still very cloudy, cannot see the deep end drains.

Thanks for your assistance and cannot wait for my Taylor TF 100 to arrive!!

Gene

 

[bdex]

I am sure that someone did or will mention this, but with your cya at 30 you will constantly chase your tail with a SWG pool. It needs to be 70-80.

My guess is that you will want to get your slam done first to kill the algae bloom, but for that SWG to be able to keep up, all things considered (sun, cover, etc) you will need more than 30ppm of cya.


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[n240sxguy]

How ironic is it that the pool store wants to sell you hundreds in useless chemicals, but they use a $8 test kit to determine what you need.


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[bdex]

How ironic is it that the pool store wants to sell you hundreds in useless chemicals, but they use a $8 test kit to determine what you need.


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Or better yet, like my old PS, 7 way strips. Had one guy that could use a K2006 and he left.


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[zea3]

There is no real danger for a plaster pool, just the chance that you may be wasting bleach. Vinyl pools may bleach their liner prematurely by using much more bleach than is required for an extended period of time.

bdex is right that you will need to raise your CYA to 70 if you are using a SWG, but do it after the slam is completed and you have confirmed your current CYA level.

 

[GeneS]

Thanks. I am currently still slamming although it has turn from swamp green to a pretty blue for about 36 hrs now but still cloudy. Without a good test kit yet (TF100 on the way) I am estimating my CL levels as best I can. Went from 6 gallons 8.25% bleach per day for 2 days down to 3 now. How many days on average does it take for a pool to clear up? I can just make out the bottom drains in the deep end if I look carefully. I assume I killed most if not all the algae and I prefer not to add any floc (unless someone here recommends it).

 

[one_knight4u]

Hi Gene,
Good deal on getting the pool blue,, just hang in there, now comes the part to test your patients. It will seem like it isnt doing anything but in reality it will slowly start to clear up. It just has to be filtered out now.

If you have a light in your pool, take it out and check behind it for algae, scrub out and replace. Also, pull the ladder out if you can/have one, and wipe it down with a high concentration of bleach. All pool toys get washed down with the same elevated concentration of bleach.

When your test kit comes, start with a FC, CC and CYA test. If the FC test is over 10, dont worry with the pH test, as it wont be accurate anyway. While you are SLAMing the pool, all you need to do is a FC and CC test. We will worry with all the other parameters after you have a clean and clear pool.

Post your results as soon as you get them.

Have you had a chance to look at Pool Math that i recommended you look at earlier. It is a great program to help keep your pool balanced.

Again, just hang in there, it will come together for you and if you need to ask questions, just ask away, alot of very talented people here ready to help.

Oh, forgot about the floc,
Just let the pool clear naturally, normally here at TFP, unless it is an extreme situation would it be suggested in adding anything extra to the pool.

 

[GeneS]

Day 4 of SLAM: last night added 1 1/2 jugs of bleach (180 oz) continue to SLAM as best I can without a FAS/DPD test kit (in the mail). I am doing my best estimating the CL levels (still reads well above 5 on my test kit) all other readings are nominal. So far all is progressing well. Pool is slowly clearing. I can now see the Robot it the deep end (blurry). Will continue to SLAM as it clears.

 

[GeneS]

Day 5. Can now see the bottom drains almost perfectly.

Day 1 = Day 3 = Day 5 =

One more day and SLAM is complete!!! Thank you all for your info and advise

Gene