High CYA levels

fatboy1271

0
LifeTime Supporter
I'm new to this too and I'm coming from a pool service that used the chlorine pucks. My CYA is 100 and I immediately switched to liquid chlorine. Since I'm so new at this I don't know what normal additions of chlorine are supposed to be per day but right now I'm very happy spending the money to keep my FC at the recommended levels. My pool service had done an amazing job of keeping the pool crystal clear but being a weekly service just didn't have the love and care that I bring with daily service.

Not sure if any of that helps, but that's my story :)
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

Fatboy, Your cya measuring at 100 could be 300 or more. You need to do a diluted cya test to try to determine what your cya really is. See the extended test kit directions for how to do it. Posting a full set of test numbers would also be very helpful. You'll probably see your question and my response moved to a new thread.
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

I'm new to this too and I'm coming from a pool service that used the chlorine pucks. My CYA is 100 and I immediately switched to liquid chlorine. Since I'm so new at this I don't know what normal additions of chlorine are supposed to be per day but right now I'm very happy spending the money to keep my FC at the recommended levels. My pool service had done an amazing job of keeping the pool crystal clear but being a weekly service just didn't have the love and care that I bring with daily service.

Not sure if any of that helps, but that's my story :)
Are you sure you are only at 100? As 100 is the limit of the CYA test you have to do a diluted test unless you have already done it. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.

Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

Are you sure you are only at 100? As 100 is the limit of the CYA test you have to do a diluted test unless you have already done it. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.

Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5

Thanks tim5055! I appreciate you sharing the broken down equation written up by JamesW!!!

- - - Updated - - -

Fatboy, Your cya measuring at 100 could be 300 or more. You need to do a diluted cya test to try to determine what your cya really is. See the extended test kit directions for how to do it. Posting a full set of test numbers would also be very helpful. You'll probably see your question and my response moved to a new thread.

Thanks timerguy! I will do the extended test to see what I get from that. For such an important test I wish the test itself wasn't so... wonky.
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

Thanks tim5055! I appreciate you sharing the broken down equation written up by JamesW!!!

- - - Updated - - -



Thanks timerguy! I will do the extended test to see what I get from that. For such an important test I wish the test itself wasn't so... wonky.
I agree teh CYA test troubles many folks.

Bieng in LA with water restrictions you need to Google Pool Reverse Osmosis treatments in Los Angeles.
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

Are you sure you are only at 100? As 100 is the limit of the CYA test you have to do a diluted test unless you have already done it. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.

Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5

This is probably the wrong thread for this and I apologize; however, one thing I hate about the very aloof instructions in the TF-100 kit regarding CYA testing is that they say fill to the bottom of the label and then to the top of the label. My label, probably like most, is crooked... I did read somewhere on the forums to use 14mL pool water and 14mL R-0013. Is this correct? For the extended test what kind of accuracy would I get if I did 5mL pool water + 5mL tap water + 10mL of R-0013? I use 5/10mL because those numbers are clearly marked on the testing tubes.
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

The normal CYA test should be performed with 1:1 ratio of pool water:R-0013 and it is the ratio which is most important.

For the diluted CYA test with 1:1:2 of pool water:tap water:R-0013, the absolute accuracy is +/-30ppm since it is a subjective test.
If you want to be precise, you could get the 50ppm standard solution and experiment with the lighting until you get the appropriate reading.
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

The normal CYA test should be performed with 1:1 ratio of pool water:R-0013 and it is the ratio which is most important.

For the diluted CYA test with 1:1:2 of pool water:tap water:R-0013, the absolute accuracy is +/-30ppm since it is a subjective test.
If you want to be precise, you could get the 50ppm standard solution and experiment with the lighting until you get the appropriate reading.

Thanks Abigail; however, I'm still looking for the correct 1:1:2 ratio... is it 7mL pool water + 7mL tap water + 14mL R-0013? Can I use 5+5+10?
 
Re: How to transition to liquid chlorine with high CYA levels

Thanks Abigail; however, I'm still looking for the correct 1:1:2 ratio... is it 7mL pool water + 7mL tap water + 14mL R-0013? Can I use 5+5+10?
The easiest way I found was to just take 1 cup of pool water and 1 cup of tap water and mix them in a bowl. This becomes your 1 to water solution. With the TF100 I think it is 14mL water to 14 mL R-0013.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
fatboy1271,

If you are sent a defective product and you don't notify the maker, it becomes quite difficult for the maker to send you a good one.

My label, probably like most, is crooked
In fact, I think yours was the first one this season to have that issue. They sometimes crack in transit but we don't make a habit of placing the label on crooked.

Please send me your name, phone and address to [email protected] and we'll have a new mixing tube right out to you on Monday.

Can you explain what parts of the directions are "very aloof"? In seven years, that's a new one and some insight might be very helpful to all of us.

As far as mixing, the test is designed to mix 50% pool water with 50% R-0013 reagent......regardless of the quantity
 
Thanks Dave and I didn't mean to sound insulting by using the word aloof or implying that most labels are crooked... I really do apologize because I love the site and the helpfulness of the users.

However, as a new person to pool care it is frustrating to hear how important an accurate reading of CYA is; yet, the instructions read: "This test is the most subjective and may take a time or two to 'get' it." I truly appreciate the offer to send a replacement bottle; however, right now I'll have you save the time and money by not sending one. I will use the test tubes for measurements and see how that goes. If I really feel that I need a new bottle then I will let you know.

Thanks everyone for the help and guidance!!!

- - - Updated - - -

The easiest way I found was to just take 1 cup of pool water and 1 cup of tap water and mix them in a bowl. This becomes your 1 to water solution. With the TF100 I think it is 14mL water to 14 mL R-0013.

That makes a lot of sense to and I will use that method right now!
 
I really like the diluted test:
14mL+14mL I was unsure of the results

Pool + tap * x
1part + 1part * 2 = 80 CYA
1part + 2part * 3 = 80 CYA

Thanks for the breakdown and I'll apologize once more if I insulted anyone in regards to the test kit and my confusion. I don't want to be looked at as someone who complains on sites. I look forward to helping out new comers as I learn more and more from the awesome users here!!!
 
That kinda begs the question, why didn't that show up on the non diluted test?

I've read it as 80 at times and also as 100. As part of the "it takes a time or two to get it" I think I'm understanding the lighting conditions needed to better see when the black dot disappears. I'll keep an eye on it which begs the question, should I do this more than once per week for the time being?
 
Without a swg you probably need to replace some water to get you to 50 ppm though. If you stay @ 80 you will need a lot more bleach to keep you at the target level for FC. It's manageable, but not ideal.

Understood; however, living in Southern California means we supposedly don't have enough water for drinking let alone refilling pools... My wife and I want to convert to SWG so we are looking into possibly doing that this winter. I've been keeping my FC in the acceptable range from the Pool School - Chlorine chart and I've had no issues with algae or at least not that I can tell. The pool is still as crystal clear as it was when I took over from the pool service and I believe I've done a good/accurate job.
 
Understood; however, living in Southern California means we supposedly don't have enough water for drinking let alone refilling pools... My wife and I want to convert to SWG so we are looking into possibly doing that this winter. I've been keeping my FC in the acceptable range from the Pool School - Chlorine chart and I've had no issues with algae or at least not that I can tell. The pool is still as crystal clear as it was when I took over from the pool service and I believe I've done a good/accurate job.

I say no time like the present!! That or you will have to get someone to come in and run your water thru a RO (reverse osmosis) machine until it is about 40 or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I say no time like the present!! That or you will have to get someone to come in and run your water thru a RO (reverse osmosis) machine until it is about 40 or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks bdex. It is my understanding that water restrictions are a lot me lenient in the winter. I could be wrong but it would make sense with people needing less water for their lawns and that is why we are thinking not right now. If my readings stay at 80CYA then I will maintain the needed FC range for now.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.