Trying to help a friend and FC testing was orange, what now?

[Catanzaro]

I had gone over to test the water for a friend whose daughter will be having a party on Saturday. We tested the FC and the TF100 Test kit color was a light orange/dark orange which after reading could have a FC level between 10 and 20 & dark orange is between 15 and 30. PH was @ 7.2. CYA was @ 90.

After reading a bit it could be a chlorine lock. What next? Is the pool sanitary? Will the FC naturally drift down. They were using pucks and I asked them to get rid of them as they were in the skimmer. Pool is old (like 20 years). One main drain, one return & one skimmer. Sand Filter with a black pump. Water clarity is clear. Someone came over and used powdered shock that has trichloro-s-triazinetrione with 65% chlorine 4 all in one (something). It looks like the person put in at least 3 lbs. if not more of the powdered shock?

So what is next for the person as I need to help them. Or am I way off base. TA was 120 during the testing. We did not test for anything else.

 

[Leebo]

Which test were you using, the K1000 (blue box) or the FAS/Dpd test?

 

[Catanzaro]

TF 100 Test Kit, Taylor K-1000 Blue Box

 

[Leebo]

This thread describes an orangish result when using the OTO test. Try retesting using the FAS/DPD test for an exact FC level. With a CYA of 90ish it will take some time for the chlorine to come down on its own, so knowing the exact FC level will help us suggest if the water is safe to swim in.

I would simply suggest you point this person to the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and give them a solid base to start maintaining their own pool. "The guy" who's adding the chemicals to the pool now is leading your friend to a drain/refill. The sooner you can get him away from granular chlorine the better.

 

[Catanzaro]

Thank you will pass along. Try retesting using the FAS/DPD test for an exact FC level

Do I have this test in the TF-100 Kit?

 

[duraleigh]

Do I have this test in the TF-100 Kit?

Yes. The instructions for it are written right on the laminated card.

 

[Smykowski]

And just to clarify, there is no such thing as "chlorine lock."

 

[Catanzaro]

I was wondering myself about "chlorine lock", no such thing. I went back and tested the CYA with 50% Tap water and 50% Pool Water and the level dropped from 90 to 45. I explained to my friend there is no other option besides draining 50% of the water. We drained to waste some water. He will need to repeat this cycle @ least 10X in order to bring the levels down. Additionally I just performed by first CC Test with the TF-100 Test Kit. It gets easier each time I use it. My levels are perfect and each morning as I stare @ the pool water and see its clarity it puts a smile on my face.

I am assuming that the FC level @ this point will naturally come down once we drain/fill the water??? I have also mentioned to my friend that the pucks are no longer valid and he will be ordering the TF-100 Test kit today as I go over there. Thanks

 

[singingpond]

I had gone over to test the water for a friend whose daughter will be having a party on Saturday. We tested the FC and the TF100 Test kit color was a light orange/dark orange which after reading could have a FC level between 10 and 20 & dark orange is between 15 and 30. PH was @ 7.2. CYA was @ 90.

...

In response to the immediate question about using the pool short-term:

Certainly getting a more exact chlorine level, using FAS/DPD, would be a good idea.

It does seem that your CYA number is probably reliable, since you measured once undiluted and a second time 50% diluted, and you got comparable results both times.

If you look at PoolMath, you'll see a fairly high shock level for a CYA of 90 (FC at 35 for shock). Your OTO result, pending confirmation via FAS/DPD suggests that the chlorine level is below that shock level.

If you search the forum, you'll find lots of statements that it is safe to swim in a pool up to that shock level. This is assuming that visibility is good (you said that water clarity was good), and that you can see to the bottom of the pool.

As far as comfort, the actual pH may be quite low -- you measured 7.2, but the pH test reads inaccurately high in the presence of high free chlorine. Since the FC is probably well above 10 (judging by OTO test color), the actual pH of the water is likely lower than 7.2. I think quite a few people experience problems with stinging eyes at lower pH levels.

 

[Catanzaro]

I have the TF-100 Test kit and am becoming more comfortable with kit as I use it more often. Is there any TEST KIT out there that has higher FC readings then the 5, up to shock levels and mustard algae levels?
Unless I missed something on my kit ??


I do not plan on ever getting to that point but people have been asking me for help so it would be nice to have one on hand. I do understand the light orange, dark orange and brown colors, etc.

Thank you.

 

[Leebo]

The FAS/DPD test included with the TF-100 can test the FC to rather high levels. The video below displays this test.

 

[Catanzaro]

Now I understand. Keep adding drops and multiply by .5 to get the higher reading. I have already done this test. Good news is 5 ppm FC 5 ppm TC 0 CC. Exactly where I need to be.

 

[PoolStudent]

If the CYA was 90, it is not where it needs to be. It needs to be at a minimum 7 at all times.

Refer to this chart, Chlorine CYA Chart

 

[singingpond]

Maybe the FC 5 number is from the poster's own pool? Not from the friend's pool in the original post (that was the pool with CYA 90 and the orange result on OTO test, I think)?

 

[Catanzaro]

I really do not understand the comment from singing pond. The CYA was 90 and the FC number is based on the Taylor Kit (blue) please read previous posts. The owner has been draining and filling the pool and he had a little bit of algae today so I asked him to carefully watch the pool for more algae. I think on Tuesday I will bring my pump that dumps 15 gallons a minute or about 900 gallons an hour. This should help bring the CYA level down and I am assuming the FC has been used up over the last few days so I may have to assist him at this point. Not sure yet. Will keep everyone posted.

 

[singingpond]

OK, so the FC 5 measurement, mentioned in post #12 above, and obtained with the FAS/DPD test, is from the pool with CYA level of 90?

Sorry to have posted something confusing -- it's just that FC at 5 did not seem consistent with the orange color reported on OTO test in the original post. And two different pools have been mentioned in the thread (your friend's pool, and your pool).

 

[Catanzaro]

Headed back there tonight for another testing. The CYA was 90. There has been no chlorine added to the testing should be interesting this evening.

Tested water @ 6 p.m. and PH was slightly low @ 7.2 and FC was yellow and not orange, either 5 or over but under 10. He will be dumping water @ 6 a.m. with a pump and filling up all day. Then will test CYA to make sure @ 50 or around there. There are early signs of algae so this must be done immediately. Some small spots but nothing major.

Once CYA level is down to 50 and PH is up to 7.6 what should we bring the FC level to with a small amount of floor algae? No reason to SLAM at this point. And how long should we keep the levels up or the Target FC daily should do the job with the filter running for about 8-10 hours a day?

Thank you.

 

[Abigail K]

Visible algae IS a reason to SLAM.

 

[northrn]

:lookhere: When to SLAM

From the article:

If you have algae, or the CC level is above 0.5, or the free chlorine (FC) level is zero, you should SLAM the pool.

 

[Catanzaro]

I plan on helping him with the pool this evening. He is dumping water out and refilling the pool so we can lower the CYA. He already has purchased enough bleach for this process. The PH is low so that should work out. Will keep you posted.