optimal chem balance with swg

abfab

Gold Supporter
Nov 12, 2012
199
Ontario, Canada
I was reading the section of pool school that lists the optimal chem ranges for swgs. This differs from what my aquarite swg and local pool store recommend. The key differences I noticed are:
FC = 1-3ppm AR vs 4-6ppm TFP
TA = 80-120ppm vs 60-80ppm

Why such a big difference? Which should I follow?
 
All manufacturers seems to ignore the FC/CYA relationship, even though it has been well understood for over 30 years.
A SWG will raise the pH over time, a lower TA slows down that rise.

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Thanks! The pool store is always telling me my cya is a little low. Glad I just ordered my K2006 kit so I don't have to rely on them anymore!

Because they do not figure in the effects of chlorine bound to CYA. They also use the gov standard of 3 ppm max that is from drinking water with no CYA.
So the higher chlorine recommendation is because of the lower cya?
 
All manufacturers seems to ignore the FC/CYA relationship, even though it has been well understood for over 30 years.

Could you elaborate on what that relationship is please? My FC is currently at 4 and CYA at 35. I understand that my CYA is currently low. I understood CYA as sunglasses for pH.

- - - Updated - - -

Get your TA up to 120 and try to control pH. You'll find out real quick who to follow. :)

See....This is an example Jason....not a very helpful post to a newbie with 25 posts under their belt and fundamental and exceptionally reasonable questions.
 
Cya does several things. Yes it is like sunglasses for chlorine. UV breaks down free chlorine very fast. When it is bound by CYA the break down is slower. It also buffers the effects of free chlorine or takes the harshness from the chlorine. Basically with bound chlorine, you will test higher FC but the effects on the pool, equipment, swimsuits and you are much lower. TFP uses a 7.5% ratio for manual pools and 5% for SWG. As the CYA goes up the FC also needs to go up to keep the ratio. That's why people have problems after a while when they use chlorine pucks. They add both chlorine and CYA. It gets to a point when the CYA gets too high. That's when the pool stores make the big bucks. They sell and sell chemicals and when that does not work they give you terms like chlorine lock and you need to drain. That's the only way to get rid of CYA. The TA is lower because SWG tend to drive up pH. The TA is a buffer for your pH. It's something that really takes some experimenting with. By that I mean, every pool has it's own personality. One pool might like 120 and your neighbors pool might like 80. I would start somewhat low. Watch how your pH does and if it rises fast then make a small adjustment with your TA till you find that happy spot your pool likes. Yes your CYA is low for a SWG pool but I would not do anything until you get your kit. Pool store test vary wildly and it might not be 35. TFP recommends 60-80 for a SWG. The main thing to ask yourself is, do you want a trouble free pool or pool store advice. As you can see they do not mesh. It's one or the other but I can tell you this. You will have the best looking pool if you follow the advise here.
 
See....This is an example Jason....not a very helpful post to a newbie with 25 posts under their belt and fundamental and exceptionally reasonable questions.

I apologize for being humorous in my post. To be fair, you asked who you should follow, and I used a sarcastic remark to let you know we will recommend you follow the methods here.

And at 25 posts, I assumed you have already been told to review Pool School, and didn't see any need to be repetitive. The effects of TA are outlined in Pool School in the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
 

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Cya does several things. Yes it is like sunglasses for chlorine. UV breaks down free chlorine very fast. When it is bound by CYA the break down is slower. It also buffers the effects of free chlorine or takes the harshness from the chlorine. Basically with bound chlorine, you will test higher FC but the effects on the pool, equipment, swimsuits and you are much lower. TFP uses a 7.5% ratio for manual pools and 5% for SWG. As the CYA goes up the FC also needs to go up to keep the ratio. That's why people have problems after a while when they use chlorine pucks. They add both chlorine and CYA. It gets to a point when the CYA gets too high. That's when the pool stores make the big bucks. They sell and sell chemicals and when that does not work they give you terms like chlorine lock and you need to drain. That's the only way to get rid of CYA. The TA is lower because SWG tend to drive up pH. The TA is a buffer for your pH. It's something that really takes some experimenting with. By that I mean, every pool has it's own personality. One pool might like 120 and your neighbors pool might like 80. I would start somewhat low. Watch how your pH does and if it rises fast then make a small adjustment with your TA till you find that happy spot your pool likes. Yes your CYA is low for a SWG pool but I would not do anything until you get your kit. Pool store test vary wildly and it might not be 35. TFP recommends 60-80 for a SWG. The main thing to ask yourself is, do you want a trouble free pool or pool store advice. As you can see they do not mesh. It's one or the other but I can tell you this. You will have the best looking pool if you follow the advise here.

Great explanation. Thank you!
 
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